OME Coils (height)

[akarilo]

Aside from the oem height replacement coils, I've come to the conclusion that it takes at least a J up front to get that elusive "level" stance.

I'm considering increasing the lift on my rig. From what I've come across while searching, even an 860 out back in conjunction with 850's still appears a bit "stinky". Hey, correct me if I'm wrong.

Nevermind about 10,000lbs of camping gear, and no input on spacers needed. After all, an 850+1" spacer equals a J doesn't it.

Come on people, lets debate the hell out of this

 

[Tapage]

I run J in front and 863 back .. J front are around 19" fre height IIRC

 

[bhmmapping]

I have the 850/860 combo and have about 1.5 inches difference between the rear and the front(center of hub to fender). I have removed the trailer hitch, the third row seats, the spare, the rear bumper, nothing in the back and an ARB non winch up front. If I put all that stuff back on or anything with weight in the back I am pretty close to level. I am switching to 863s and am going to put a spacer in the front for a more predicatable setup, I like the unloaded height.

 

[PACNW96]

As you know I have 850/860's, stock rear bumper with hitch, third row installed, ARB front winch bumper with no winch, and my rear is about 0.5" higher than the front. Looks perfect in my opinion....remember even stock rigs have some stinkbug from the factory. If you have an aftermarket rear bumper I would think the rig would be level.

In my case if I would have installed J's and 860's my front would be higher by about half an inch. IMHO I would run the 850/860's and you can trim pack the front to perfection if necessary. Also, if you run J's up front wouldn't you have to run L shocks?

My 2cents...

Russell

 

[Box Rocket]

Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has a page full of specs for the OME springs.

Check it out here:
Cruiser Outfitters

 

[80t0ylc]

Aside from the oem height replacement coils, I've come to the conclusion that it takes at least a J up front to get that elusive "level" stance.

I'm considering increasing the lift on my rig. From what I've come across while searching, even an 860 out back in conjunction with 850's still appears a bit "stinky". Hey, correct me if I'm wrong.

Nevermind about 10,000lbs of camping gear, and no input on spacers needed. After all, an 850+1" spacer equals a J doesn't it.

Come on people, lets debate the hell out of this

All right, you asked for it. What's wrong with a bit stinky? I'm sure I'll get flamed fot it but, who gives a care what it LOOKS LIKE? Come on, put the springs on it that you NEED for your mods and cargo, with consideration for headlight aim with a full load. I don't know, maybe I'm becoming less tolerant or maybe it's just my tired old eyes, but one of the biggest source of fatigue and annoyance of night driving is glare from headlights that are not aimed correctly.

You know, damn well, when you're loading up that level when empty rig, headed out for that outing for the weekend, that headlight aim is not even going to cross your mind. I guess it's for that reason, that I don't mind the "stinkbug" look. Back when I got my OMEs, I was planning for a large aux. fuel tank, in addition to cargo for a family of 5. Well, time marched on, still no aux. tank and it's just me and the . The 863s have paid off for towing, though, and I still want that aux. tank and maybe drawers also. So I keep the 863s and live with the "stinkbug".

 

[Colorado80]

I am also doing the 850j/863 combo.

 

[Tools R Us]

All right, you asked for it. What's wrong with a bit stinky? I'm sure I'll get flamed fot it but, who gives a care what it LOOKS LIKE?

IMHO some stink bug is good, the 80 has more rear overhang, so it helps with clearance. The down sides are; it lifts the rear of the front arms reducing caster angle and some don't care for the look. If you don't need huge rear bias load carrying ability one of the hybrid "kits" is probably a good choice.

Come on, put the springs on it that you NEED for your mods and cargo, with consideration for headlight aim with a full load. I don't know, maybe I'm becoming less tolerant or maybe it's just my tired old eyes, but one of the biggest source of fatigue and annoyance of night driving is glare from headlights that are not aimed correctly. ...

We can probably compete pretty well on the old guy rant thing, but the headlight argument thing doesn't hold water. If the headlights are properly aimed with normal load and a rear bias load is added they will be high, regardless of spring. The ways to deal with it are; adjust with load and deal with them being low when unloaded. Adjust for normal load and deal with them being high when loaded or readjust each time load changes. Pick your poison.

 

[80t0ylc]

... but the headlight argument thing doesn't hold water. If the headlights are properly aimed with normal load and a rear bias load is added they will be high, regardless of spring. The ways to deal with it are; adjust with load and deal with them being low when unloaded. Adjust for normal load and deal with them being high when loaded or readjust each time load changes. Pick your poison.

You've got a point, Kevin. My take on it is, most folks don't even think about it until they get stopped or a ticket. And how much unnecessary squinting have they caused, not to mention being a hazard to oncoming traffic.

EDIT: Did not mean to hijack thread - please excuse this old fart's rant!

 

[UCBerzerkeley]

I am planning on an 850/860 kit for semi-level. it will still be a little stinky, more stinky if I put an ARB up front, but a minor amount seems good. at some point in time, your rig will be loaded, then you will be grateful.

i'd go J/863, but I don't want to get into caster plates/DC shafts/etc quite yet. I'll pack spacers front and rear when I get too heavy and try to go back up a little. like lots of the people here, ill prolly have 37s and slee 6" in like 6 years, but for now hev/med is fine

 

[Nomad one]

I have the 850J front and the 863 rear and it still rides rear high.
I started with the OEM medium and 1" slee trim packers, the front was 22 3/4" center of hub to flair.
With the 850J, it is 23 1/2" center to flair.

I did not want to over correct the castor so I used the Yellow OME units, but I took the spare tire off and ran the gas down to empty to get the rear as high as possible- and get the most correct without getting driveline issues. It drives great and no vibes.
I have a 1997 with Slee Sliders as the only added weight.

As far as the ride goes it is stiffer than the medium spring, but not much. I feel the OEM setup is sprung light and over dampened.

Anyway I hope this helps!

 

[d0ubledown]

rakes are for garden sheds..not lifted cruisers . leveled lifts for the 80 all seem to be hybrids with the front being usually 1" higher than the rear. whether it be slee 4" up front with j's in the back or med/heavies all round with 1" spacer up front. not sure why lift manufacturers make it like that. good thing most lifts are available as individual front and rears... so you can fine tune em as you like.

i run heavies fr/rr with a 1" spacer up front. LT plates and a DC shaft...so im still good for more lift if i want. got an arb bullbar , no winch yet, and stubbs sliders. it still rides slightly higher out back, no hitch, and 3rd row still in. for the most part, its level to my eye. id like to move up to J's with a spacer or slee 4" + j rear, or better yet, F.O.R II. but then id want 36's..then id have to regear..then...it'll never end and i'll end up getting disowned by the wide and kids will have to live in my cruiser.

 

[uabericm]

If you are looking for an unloaded level stance, then the 850/862 is a nice setup.

 

[eurorom]

I have the OME Medium with 1.5" Metal Tech Spacers in front, with ARB Bumper abd Warn 8000 Winch, I did the math and I am level!