oil cooler oil pressure oil temperature - 1FZ-FE (1 Viewer)

[dansawyer]

The questions are:
1. Is the oil cooler on a 1FZ-FE full flow or partial flow?
2. Is there experience with these coolers getting partially plugged?
3. Can the front exhaust heat shield cause the oil cooler to run warmer?

The back ground is after much experimentation with oil and oil pressure gauges an apparent oil pressure problem is under control. The issue started with very low oil pressure, about one needle width of zero at idle and barely above the low line on the gauge at 2400 rpm. This was the result of a quick oil change at a nearby oil change store.

I then changed the oil my self, replaced the filter with a premium filter and used Mobil One 10-40. I also removed the front exhaust heat shield and temporarily installed a mechanical gauge. The gauge read 60 psi when cold, about 55 psi when warm, and about 15 psi at idle. It quickly rose to 30 psi when driving at low speeds (1400 rpm or so). These are all reasonable. Additionally either the removal and installation of the connectors on the oil pressure sensor or the removal of the front exhaust heat shield seemed to increase the oil pressure a bit.

Measuring the temperature of the oil pan indicates 205 degrees after a hard run up a long hill on a 90 degree day. After 5 minutes at idle the temperature dropped to 175 degrees. There is a moderate 5 PSI change in pressure with these readings. The current conclusion is the pressure is fine and the only remaining questions relate to oil temperature.

Should the cooler do a better job of maintaining 175 degree temperature even on a hard run up hill?
Is 205 degrees to warm for oil?
What is the optimum oil temperature?

Advice for someone chasing an apparent oil pressure question:

1. Measure the pressure with a mechanical gauge.
2. Use a premium filter and oil that will maintain viscosity at over 200 degrees.
3. Make sure the connections the the gauge are clean.
4. Try removing the front exhaust shield.

 

[bloc]

~220-230 is actually ideal for motor oil as long as said oil is the correct viscosity for the engine. Problems don't really start until 250 or more.. even higher if you are running synthetic

Bobistheoilguy.com forums for more info on the subject than you can possibly digest.

 

[Tools R Us]

Your temps sound fine. Remember that oil cools engine parts, like the pistons, etc, so will carry some heat.

 

[dansawyer]

Thanks for the replies. If the ideal oil temperature is in the 220 range then is the oil flow through the oil cooler controlled in any way? Is there any kind of thermostat? Another thread indicated there were two oil pressure regulators one near the pump and one near the cooler. Are those designed to control oil temperature?

 

[JeepinPete]

The oil cooler cannot bring the oil temp down any lower than the water temp. Odds are your water temp was over 200 after that long climb too.

 

[inkpot]

I don't really see any way the exhaust heat shields would make a difference either way?

 

[bloc]

I don't really see any way the exhaust heat shields would make a difference either way?

Agreed. Or at least with respect to oil temps. I could see radiant heat impacting what the oil pressure sender reports.

 

[stevenmichael]

Does the position of the oil pressure look normal ? I Haven't really been paying attention to where it normally rests . It just look like it's low . Is there another way to check if I have the right pressure or not and what should the reading be ? IMG_2149 by myridevlx600, on Flickr

 

[Rifleman]

Does the position of the oil pressure look normal ? I Haven't really been paying attention to where it normally rests . It just look like it's low . Is there another way to check if I have the right pressure or not and what should the reading be ? IMG_2149 by myridevlx600, on Flickr

Both your water temp, and oil pressure gauge readings look like mine at idle. If i remember right, oil pressure should be about 10 PSI for each 1000 RPM.

 

[stevenmichael]

Both your water temp, and oil pressure gauge readings look like mine at idle. If i remember right, oil pressure should be about 10 PSI for each 1000 RPM.

Thanks .I was stopped and just idling . I was reading this posts Dan said to check the pressure with a mechanical gauge . Where do you connect the gauge ? Do you think its a good Idea to have a gauge that shows the psi mounted some where inside ?

 

[Rifleman]

You can put a Tee in between the factory sending unit and the block to run a mechanical gauge off of. If you run a oil pressure line into your cab DON"T use any of those 1/8 inch plastic or copper tubing to feed oil pressure to the gauge. If your going to do it, spend the extra money and get some -4 stainless steel braided brake hose and fittings to plumb your new gauge. Using -4 stainless steel hose, you'll never have to worry about you oil pressure line breaking. One last thing, check the threads on the factory oil pressure sending unit for your new Tee, Because if i remember right, they are not NTP pipe, but are in fact Whit worth, and the two threads are NOT interchangeable.

 

[stevenmichael]

You can put a Tee in between the factory sending unit and the block to run a mechanical gauge off of. If you run a oil pressure line into your cab DON"T use any of those 1/8 inch plastic or copper tubing to feed oil pressure to the gauge. If your going to do it, spend the extra money and get some -4 stainless steel braided brake hose and fittings to plumb your new gauge. Using -4 stainless steel hose, you'll never have to worry about you oil pressure line breaking. One last thing, check the threads on the factory oil pressure sending unit for your new Tee, Because if i remember right, they are not NTP pipe, but are in fact Whit worth, and the two threads are NOT interchangeable.

Thanks I will do some searching on line to see if I can find a photo of the line I need to tee off of . Have you seen photos of the line and a tee off of it on this forum ?

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks I will do some searching on line to see if I can find a photo of the line I need to tee off of . Have you seen photos of the line and a tee off of it on this forum ?

There is no 'line' to tee off of.

The OEM pressure sending unit attaches to the oil cooler (passenger side engine block). You could use a fitting that would let you run a mechanical gauge (with a line to gauge inside the cab) by itself, or even retain the factory sending unit and gauge and have a mechanical gauge (or digital gauge with proper sending unit) if you like.

As someone already mentioned the threads for the sending unit are NOT 'NPT'.

Also, there is limited room under the exhaust manifold to install fittings/adapters so look at that carefully before changing anything.

I relocated my factory oil pressure sender to the firewall and added another sending unit and a digital gauge. That way....I retain the factory gauge on the dash, but have an accurate digital gauge to monitor the pressure as well. The factory gauge on most Land Cruisers (with oil warmed up...engine at idle) would have you think you had little to no oil pressure.

At idle, I have 10-15 lbs. psi oil pressure (digital)....while the factory gauge shows the needle just barely off the bottom line of the factory gauge. At first start up (engine cold) I will have about 60-65 lbs. psi of pressure, which gradually decreases as the oil and engine warm up.

At highway speeds (2200-2500 rpm) I have about 55-60 lbs. psi of oil pressure.

Relocated Oil Pressure Sending Unit....in Prep for........

 

[cruiserdan]

Toyota uses British Standard Pipe Taper thread (BSPT).

This is nominally smaller than US NPT. A male BSPT pipe will thread into a female NPT fitting but a male NPT thread is too large to fit in a female BSPT fitting. It is possible to open up a female BSPT thread using an NPT tap. This needs to be done carefully to avoid damage.

 

[flintknapper]

Toyota uses British Standard Pipe Taper thread (BSPT).

This is nominally smaller than US NPT. A male BSPT pipe will thread into a female NPT fitting but a male NPT thread is too large to fit in a female BSPT fitting. It is possible to open up a female BSPT thread using an NPT tap. This needs to be done carefully to avoid damage.

^^^^^ Which is exactly what I did.

Though the pitch is not that different (1:28 vs. 1:27) the thread shape/form is also different. Of course it goes without saying....anytime you have a 'tapered' pipe thread you need to be very careful tapping holes (or installing the item) IF the part is of softer material (or is brittle) than the item you are installing. Very easy to crack an expensive part.

Good info Dan, thanks.

Some other information:

Explanation of common threads including BSP & NPT

 

[stevenmichael]

Thanks everyone I'll just stick to the gauge I have and just make a point to see where its at at different rpm's and at cold start and warm start ect . If anyone is going to add a gauge in the future would you film it or take lots of photos . If I have photos or a video to go by I can copy doing it but I don't like doing things with out seeing it first . The last time I put in a oil pressure gauge was in 1976 In my 1975 Mercury Montego , I loved that car , It had a 351 Cleveland motor ,for some reason I remember that . It came with a tiny plastic hose that filled with oil and one time it came loose from the back of the gauge and oil got all in my new car . I guess thats why I might just leave it alone . It sounds like it might be to risky . I'm loosing some oil and its not making it to the garage floor . Its not a lot just a quart every 2,000 miles or so ,but some times when its sets for a week the motor shakes at start up like the pistons need oil after a few seconds it goes away . Some times a see a small amount of blue smoke from the muffler and I can smell it but its not all the time just every now and them so something is starting to happen as far as oil goes .

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks everyone I'll just stick to the gauge I have and just make a point to see where its at at different rpm's and at cold start and warm start ect . If anyone is going to add a gauge in the future would you film it or take lots of photos . If I have photos or a video to go by I can copy doing it but I don't like doing things with out seeing it first .

Are you wanting to 'add' a gauge and keep the factory dash gauge functional? Or just install a mechanical gauge (in cab) in place of the factory gauge? Either one is easy.

I'm loosing some oil and its not making it to the garage floor . Its not a lot just a quart every 2,000 miles or so ,but some times when its sets for a week the motor shakes at start up like the pistons need oil after a few seconds it goes away . Some times a see a small amount of blue smoke from the muffler and I can smell it but its not all the time just every now and them so something is starting to happen as far as oil goes .

Sounds like you are 'burning' oil and not 'leaking' oil. Most likely losing some down the valve guides. Your valve guide seals and probably the guides themselves have some wear and are allowing oil to seep down into the combustion chamber. A bit of blue smoke from the exhaust (that goes away) at start up is a classic symptom.

^^^^^^ Expand for reply

 

[stevenmichael]

^^^^^^ Expand for reply

I would like to keep the factory one and add a real gauge where the oil comes right to the gauge and a real water temp gauge if I can tap into something .

 

[Rifleman]

Toyota uses British Standard Pipe Taper thread (BSPT).

This is nominally smaller than US NPT. A male BSPT pipe will thread into a female NPT fitting but a male NPT thread is too large to fit in a female BSPT fitting. It is possible to open up a female BSPT thread using an NPT tap. This needs to be done carefully to avoid damage.

British Standard Pipe thread fittings as defined by ISO 228 standard, uses Whitworth standard threads. The Whitworth thread uses a 55 degree pitch angle. The 1/8 inch BSPT* has 28 threads per inch and an O.D. of .383. The thread shape of Whitworth threads are rounded equally at the crests, and roots by circular arcs

The SAE National Pipe Thread uses a 60 degree thread pitch angle. The 1/8 inch NPT fitting has 27 threads per inch, and an O.D. of .373. The thread shape of the SAE NTP thread is a Vee, that shape is equal at it's crest and root.

Since these two fittings use completely different thread pitch angles, 55 versus 60, and they don't have the same number of threads per inch, 27 versus 28, and the thread shapes are completely different, Vee versus a circular arc. I'd highly recommend against mating these 2 different threads together. YMMV

*!/8 BSPT is the correct thread for the oil pressure Tee to hook up stevnmichael oil pressure gauge.