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- #121
I pulled the carburetor this morning. Packaged it up and shipped it off to be rebuilt.
Build Off to a Good Start. My '74 40 Series
- Thread starter TwelveGravity
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- Thread starter
- #122
I pulled the air filter housing to help getting access to removing some of the smog equipment. This head bold second from the front was a pain to get loose and after pulling it out, you can see the threads don't look all that great. Then when I tried to run it back in, it started to get difficult with about an inch left. I stopped there and didn't want to force it.
What do you think?
What do you think?
Put a straw in the hole and blow through it to get any loose dirt out. Then put the other bolt in the hole and see if it goes all the way down.
Personally I am nervous about leaving head bolts out since the head gasket may start leaking.
Lacking a thread repairing file (a good idea to have one) I’d chase that bolt with a hacksaw blade and reinstall it while I was hunting down a replacement.
I can certainly put one in the box with your carburetor if you want to wait that long.
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- #124
I'd appreciate that Mark. Thank you.
The head gasket did start to leak coolant while I had the two head bolts out. I put the one closest to the front back in. Hopefully that keeps the leaking to a minimum. Tomorrow after work I'll try to remove anything inside the other hole and clean this head bolt up as you suggested.
Here's my take on a '74 de-smog. 1 vacuum line from intake manifold to brake booster, 1 vacuum line (yellow) from carb base to dizzy.
Maybe drain a few gallons of coolant from the block?
…one vacuum line from the carb to a VACUUM ADVANCE dizzy. You’re making an assumption.
1974 Cali-spec dizzy would be vacuum retard.
Maybe you're doing engine work but what's the reasoning for removing the head bolts
I remember that dizzy well. Had to swap it in and out for a week every 2 years for the first 16 years that I owned the Pig...…one vacuum line from the carb to a VACUUM ADVANCE dizzy. You’re making an assumption.
1974 Cali-spec dizzy would be vacuum retard.
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- #130
I pulled the two head bolts to temporarily remove the air filter housing. Once I pull the smog equipment off and get the carb back, I will put the air filter housing back on.
Kevin, this is what I was describing on the phone earlier. Poor man's tap. You can notch the bolt you are going to replace anyways, chase the block, and then run it back in temporarily to do the initial compression check safely until the replacement bolt arrives.
I used that style of bolt as wood screws.
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- #134
Over the past couple of days I removed the air injection manifold, smog pump etc...
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- #135
I also pulled the headers to find the suspected exhaust leak. I could hear an obvious leak somewhere and thought it was in the collector somewhere but couldn't find it. All 3 bolts on the bottom flange were rounded off and rusted out, so a cutoff wheel made quick work of them. You'll see theres a blown out exhaust tube.
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- #136
Once I got that stuff out of the way I noticed this freeze plug starting to leak. How much of a concern should that be?
Maybe your exhaust leak was frying that plug - I would replace it while you have easy access. Use a inspection camera to look around while you have the port open.
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- #138
If anyone has suggestions for replacement headers, I'm open to suggestions. These look very similar to what I pulled off, and if they somehow match, I wont need to replace anything else back from the header to the tailpipe. If I changed back to the factory manifold, I'll need to adapt the two. I looked at SOR's two piece, but then again I would have to run new pipe out the back. I don't have the budget right now to throw the "full enchilada" at it, but that would be nice.
I would think an exhaust shop should be able to marry whatever to your existing exhaust as long as it's in good shape.
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Check the classifieds Kevin. I’ve seen a few of those pop up for pretty reasonable prices (~$100) because they’re just not known as a high quality header. I think that @LCMoneyPit in WA has a set on a motor he just pulled.