He just wants to make sure he sells his first before 40 prices drop 
ntsaint's FJ40 search and build
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With a little help from Nolen I rehabbed the blower Dan pull switch, got it working. That's the last of the electrical. Every switch and bulb works as it should.
EXCEPT the red 'brake' bulb to the left of the column never goes out. It's not the parking brake, that light works as it should (see 2nd pic). I have tried everything I can think of. Anyone have any pointers??
EXCEPT the red 'brake' bulb to the left of the column never goes out. It's not the parking brake, that light works as it should (see 2nd pic). I have tried everything I can think of. Anyone have any pointers??
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My light does that at times as well but when I get time to work on it and address the problem it won't do it for me.
My fil commented there may be a switch under the pedal area sticking or needing cleaned that picks up when the brake is being used or parking brake not seated all the way.
My other toyotas do this when low on brake fluid, I don't beleive the 40 works that way I'm mainly commenting here so I can find when someone else chimes in with what they know.
My fil commented there may be a switch under the pedal area sticking or needing cleaned that picks up when the brake is being used or parking brake not seated all the way.
My other toyotas do this when low on brake fluid, I don't beleive the 40 works that way I'm mainly commenting here so I can find when someone else chimes in with what they know.
Bodean
Hot Damn
Don't see that happening any time soon.He just wants to make sure he sells his first before 40 prices drop
There is a momentary switch on both the ebrake and brake pedal. One or both of them is stuck in the on position. Happened to me; problem stopped after rebuilding both.
Andy since the AGR light is not working is it possible the brake warning is somehow tied to that circuit?
You don't have the sensor that that light is telling you about on your new master.
Just unhook it. It's not doing anything.
You don't have the sensor that that light is telling you about on your new master.
Just unhook it. It's not doing anything.
Bodean
Hot Damn
Wonder what years got those lights? My 78 doesn't have them. I have a single brake light on the dash that is tied to the E-Brake sensor.
I'm of the opinion that the EGR and Brake Warning Light 'hot' wires are crossed too (regardless of whether or not the plugs are different). To me, it looks like your EGR indicator is in an always on state (just being indicated in the 'Brake' light) and that your Brake Warning indicator is actually working properly (just being indicated in the 'EGR' light).
Couple of ways to check (maybe):
1. The Brake Warning Light 'hot' leg should be a Light Blue/Red wire. The EGR light 'hot' leg(s) should be fed by both a Black/Yellow wire and a Black/White wire. Check the harness side of the plugs and confirm the wire colors.
2. The Light Blue/Red wire feeding the Brake Warning Light should only be hot when the ignition is in the 'On' position. The Black/Yellow and Black/White wires feeding the EGR light indicate that it should have power when the ignition is in both the 'On' and 'Start' positions. Check to see if your 'Brake' light stays on when starting the engine. If it does, then this too suggests the 'hot' wires are crossed.
3. On the 'California Equipped' trucks, the EGR light was nothing more than a switch tied to the speedo cable. It gets toggled every 25,000 miles. You can reset it yourself if you feel like pulling the instrument cluster apart. Some good info here. If your 'Brake' light goes off after toggling this switch, then we know the wires are crossed.
Couple of ways to check (maybe):
1. The Brake Warning Light 'hot' leg should be a Light Blue/Red wire. The EGR light 'hot' leg(s) should be fed by both a Black/Yellow wire and a Black/White wire. Check the harness side of the plugs and confirm the wire colors.
2. The Light Blue/Red wire feeding the Brake Warning Light should only be hot when the ignition is in the 'On' position. The Black/Yellow and Black/White wires feeding the EGR light indicate that it should have power when the ignition is in both the 'On' and 'Start' positions. Check to see if your 'Brake' light stays on when starting the engine. If it does, then this too suggests the 'hot' wires are crossed.
3. On the 'California Equipped' trucks, the EGR light was nothing more than a switch tied to the speedo cable. It gets toggled every 25,000 miles. You can reset it yourself if you feel like pulling the instrument cluster apart. Some good info here. If your 'Brake' light goes off after toggling this switch, then we know the wires are crossed.
I don't know why he would have an EGR light then. Unless that warning light bracket/assembly is a replacement.