Northwest fabworks BLACK BOX

HDJdreams

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It is suited to highway driving but it needs extra capacity to make it run cooler. As it is there is only about 1/2 quart of gear oil and there really needs about 3-4 quarts to keep it cool. Like I said in an earlier post my dad's black box made it over 2000 highway miles in just a few days on the 1/2 quart and it didn't grenade, it got hot but didn't fail. With the extra fluid capacity added there shouldn't be a problem. Add a reservoir, pump, and a finned cooler and the highway problem is solved.
Did the Blackbox have ports for the cooling lines? (Or did you have to drill and tap?) Does it have an internal pump? If not what did you use for a pump?
 

HDJdreams

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It literally requires extensive modifications to the floor and other parts of the vehicle in order to work and it’s pretty expensive to boot. But you’re concerned about adding small pieces like that?
Marks4wd 6L80 to HF2A, 8”, $1700
Blackbox for the same, $1750 (length?)

In the context of LS swap, Blackbox seemed like a no brainer, provided that it can run reliably on the highway.

It’s not the small pieces that’s a non starter, but it must work with highway driving. If extras are needed, that should be very clear up front, part of the build options on website, etc.
 

JohnnyOshow22

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Did the Blackbox have ports for the cooling lines? (Or did you have to drill and tap?) Does it have an internal pump? If not what did you use for a pump?
The black box has a breather/fill port (fill from breather) and a drain port as it comes from nwf so yes it does have ports but they aren't specifically ports for the cooling lines but you could route the lines in and out of those. It would need an external pump that could move synthetic gear oil and I'm not sure what pump will be used yet.
 

hoser

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Interesting that it overheats in high range.... there are no gears meshing in high-range, right? Instead of a separate fluid reservoir, perhaps pump fluid in/out of the other transfer case.
 

RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
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@RFB LS/NV4500/Atlas 4 speed/tons. At this point the door has been opened.......
your killin me, BUT Im very happy with my SC 4.5 and crate tranny I just want a lower gear. Crawling down into hells agte the weight of the truck overrides 4low a bit. not much but a bit. And Ive discovered after posting this, nobody offers up a black box solution for 97s
 

RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
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Dana axles offer lower gear ratios than toyota
Yea Im hip to that, But ive never had an issue with axles birfs or anything all I really wanted was a LO LO that wouldnt effect highway. Ive never done the underdrives but Im looking for a TC to rebuild with japanese gears from @cruiseroutfitters. Tis 80 setup as it is now. Has climbed, crawled and gone through everything Ive pointed it at I would just like a bit more control on descents. And I pulled the ABS to give me some semblance of brakes. Coming down this Fin pictured I had no control once the weight over road the

4low
drop off moab_Moment (2).jpg
 

RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
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@RFB - I don't know your craw ratio but I have the 3:1 gear set and it's phenomenal, to say the least. I'm only on 315s + 4.56 and the folks behind me are riding their brakes because I descend too slowly.
where did you get them and did you install? Im looking at the japanese gears @cruiseroutfit have but dont know how long it would take or if I should go the the trouble of scoring a secnd TC to do so. I think @landtank may have an extra TC but being its from mass. its probalby in rough shape.
 

alia176

 
 
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where did you get them and did you install? Im looking at the japanese gears @cruiseroutfit have but dont know how long it would take or if I should go the the trouble of scoring a secnd TC to do so. I think @landtank may have an extra TC but being its from mass. its probalby in rough shape.
Well let's see, this was done seven years ago so that means it must've been a set from Marks Adapters. Installation was easy peasy. My buddy and I did his 3:1 first, then he came back few months later and we did the 10% overdrive gear set project. Both were easy peasy and I think he bought both sets from Kurt but not 100% sure. Dropping the Tcase is the hardest thing, IMHO. The rest are just follow the directions, take craptastic amount of pics and follow the tips from this site.
 
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Interesting that it overheats in high range.... there are no gears meshing in high-range, right? Instead of a separate fluid reservoir, perhaps pump fluid in/out of the other transfer case.
The gearing in these boxes is based on the New Process transfer cases. It is a planetary system, the ring gear is fixed to the case, the planets and input gears are always in motion. There is a sliding collar that is meshed to the output shaft, and can be engaged with either the input shaft (hi range) or the planetary housing (low range). So even though the planetaries are not transferring power in hi range, they are in motion.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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You said it earlier, no wife, no kids - just pay Kurt to install as you pass through Utah. No mess, no fussing. It’s not like it’s a procedure you need to know for a possible trail repair. In/out/down the road.

All this time I thought you had the low range gears. You might consider going part time also.
 
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Mine are one of the first sets from Marlin, so old. Have installed a bunch of them, most brands, never removed a transfer. The press work is pretty precision, if that isn't your thing, getting help would be good. It's a solid day of work, a big part of it is doing a good job of cleaning out the grinding grit. They work well, some have been beat, hard and never a problem.
 

alia176

 
 
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While I agree that removing the Tcase is totally optional. Given that some of us are not young bucks anymore, couple that with dripping Tcase juice on your face, it made sense for me to remove it. Also, this gave me the opportunity to do the Tcase input seal, Tranny output seal at the same time. What I'd do for a shop with a two post hoist :bang:
 
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