Nighthawk: 80 guy builds a 100 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 9, 2007
Threads
84
Messages
825
Location
Spring Lake, MI
Alright here goes my attempt to start a build thread. You guys are good writers here in the 100 section so I'll try to use correct spelling a majority of the time.

As the title suggests, and previous posts here in the 100 section, I'm coming from an 80 series.

It wasn't just any 80 series though, it was the holy grail of 80's: one of the last 500 I estimated to be built from VIN and date, OEM lockers that still worked on the day I sold it, NO stock roof rack so I never had to fill holes. Needless to say there's still a void and most of the time I regret selling it. I build the truck myself and knew every part on it almost.

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But as all who have owned one before know it lacked in major areas: predominantly power, needed more routine maintenance to the front axle than I cared to to continue, and it ate brakes for breakfast.

I made the move to a Tundra which was short-lived. I liked the wagon style of the Cruiser and ultimately the Tundra just didn't fit what I had in mind for back country travel.

Enter the 100. After reading @dmc article about the evolution of the moniker I decided the 100 would be a good fit. I intend on getting another Tundra in the future for towing, but the 100 improves upon what the 80 lacked.

After six months of searching I found a 2006 low mileage (112K miles) AHC version. As it sits today.

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At the time of purchase:

90k miles service has been completed by PO including water pump replacement and CV axle replacement both sides with OEM clamps.
AHC cycling complete: 13 ticks in the reservoir when cycling from Low - High which as I understand is good (I'll touch on how I feel about AHC later).
Oil/Diff oil change with Amsoil at 115,000.
 
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I like organization and after reading through some of the build threads, I am stealing @REZARF bullet points to sum of the build:

The Plan:

Build the NIGHTHAWK. My philosophy before was to build a vehicle like everyone else on here (duh) but the sticking point was it had to be self-sufficient in every way. Not unlike some others on here, I actually prefer to explore on my own as opposed to large groups and I like to push the envelope (a little). This means more aggressive tires, maybe overkill winch and electronics, and replacing any part with known weakness (think front diff) prior to having any issue. Buy once, cry once as they say.

First Phase: Clean up, and Maintenance.

  • I bought the truck from a Cruiserhead, and although the truck is in good shape, I have a nose (and ears) that inevitably lead me to taking everything apart.
  • Clean up was/is needed on the interior leather as well as reconditioning DONE - Chemical Guys Leather Cleaner
  • As with life the carpet had stains and needed cleaning: removed all carpets and shampooed DONE - Chemical Guys
  • Wind noise from the windshield - found loose trim and upon further inspection improperly installed - DONE
  • A few minor scratches on the body need to be retouched using OEM Toyota code paint. DONE
  • Some deeper gouges on the tailgate showing rust. These need to be sanded down and painted. DONE
  • Add Weather tech floor liners DONE
  • Change oil with Amsoil all around DONE

Suspension, Wheels and Tires: Overbuild - I'll elaborate on another post further down, but after reading about Pros/Cons of AHC I'll be yanking it out
  • Stage 2 Icon Lift with Slee Rear Shocks, OME TB, Trail Tailor Extended sway bar links front/ rear.
  • Leaning towards Evo Corse DakarZero 17" wheels for the sake of having more sidewall since 35's seem to be an issue on the 100 and I can run a full 34in tire in the 285/75R17 variety.
    • Decided to paint the OEM wheels instead... for now
  • Mounted TOYO Open Country MT in the 285/70/18 variety
  • Still need to figure out permanent spare placement
Bumpers, Sliders and Armor:
  • ARB Bull Bar - although I have always admired the Slee Blueberry, I need more radiator protection
  • ARB Rear bumper vs Slee Rear
  • Stock skid plate for now
  • Slee Step Sliders
Interior Mods:
  • Clean and condition the leather DONE
  • SOR vs Escape Gear front seat covers
  • Weather Tech floor liners DONE
  • Add a Bluetooth CD system - USA SPEC BT45-TOY Bluetooth Phone, Music & AUX Input Kit
  • Cup Holder Coasters (DONE)
  • Outback Drawers c Fridge Slide vs building my own
  • ARB 63QT Fridge Freezer
  • Remove all the wood grained interior pieces DONE
  • Cabin Air filter mod
Electrical:
Misc Accessories:
  • Gamiviti Expo++ Roof Rack
  • ARB Simpson II RTT DONE
Probably more as always, will edit as I move along.
 
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Windshield

When I bought the truck there seemed to be a lot of wind noise coming from the windshield (more than I was accustomed to even in the 80).

After some inspection and reading I realized windshield had been replaced. Fuyao glass, screws and no rivets, and what appeared to be some shoddy trim work as some portions of the trim pieces along the sides were loose.

Well after trying to decide what to do about this my decision was made last week when a trucker threw up a rock and sent what was a small crack across the whole windshield after about a day of driving.

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I'll be replacing all 4 trim pieces, just waiting until they arrive to get the job done. I'll snap some pics, hopefully the rust around the screws is minor.
 
Musty Smell

We've had a bunch of rain in GA as of late and upon entering the truck I noticed a musty smell which led me towards the back of the truck. A few times now I've noticed the carpet being damp towards the tailgate and into the truck to about a foot in depth. I had shampooed the carpets in the back which initially I thought was the issue, but I also noticed some surface rust on the seat stays so I pulled the rear trim and carpet I found a bunch of matted dog hair mixed with dirt which had formed a nice wicking device.

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I pulled the rear trim, it seems there wasn't nearly enough FIPG applied because it nearly slipped off which is puzzling. In any case you can see a little bit of rust along the leading edge where the trim piece mounts.

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I sanded down what I could of the surface rust and touched up the paint, cleaned the entire trim surround/trim and re-applied a pretty decent amount of FIPG before remounting the trim.
We have more rain in the forecast so I guess I'll find out if there was success.
 
Musty Smell

We've had a bunch of rain in GA as of late and upon entering the truck I noticed a musty smell which led me towards the back of the truck. A few times now I've noticed the carpet being damp towards the tailgate and into the truck to about a foot in depth

Something else to check, the third brake light is a very common entry point for water and one I had problems with too. The brake light is sealed with a band of foam which breaks down over time and allows water to enter the hatch and drip into cargo area near the tailgate. If you pull the hatch trim and run some water over the top of the third brake light, it's easy to spot the leak.

My fix was to remove the third brake light, clean the old adhesive and foam off the hatch and brake light, then re-install/seal with a ribbon of butyl rope. I've been dry for a couple years now.
 
@hidesertwheelin I plan to elaborate on this more once the suspension goes in. From reading different threads on the topic, I will be in the same boat with constant loads.

I can see the point LCP makes regarding proper AHC setup, but I don't prefer spacers, bags, etc.

I do love the self-leveling feature when the truck is loaded down with people and things, additionally the fact that I can change the damping for different road surfaces. Either way it's coming out.

@aging fleet I appreciate the heads up on this. I assume the 3rd brake light you're mentioning is where the rear fairing is on the top of the hatch? I'll double check this as well.

Here's to taking more things apart...👍
 
For the rear leak issue, also check the routing of the SAT Radio antenna. If it is routed the lazy way, up under the moulding that you removed. That could be another entry point for water. At least it was in my LX470.

The Sat antenna should go from the right rear cargo side (behind panel) aft to a grommet opening (below right rear tail light) to the outside. Then the wire goes up the tailgate/rear hatch channel to the right rear roof.

If the antenna is just ran from the inside to the outside by wraping it over the lip that you repainted and pushing the seal on. There will be a gap at the edge of the seal that will let water in and rundown thus rusting the lip.

Here’s a pic of the antenna with the integral rubber grommet and the plastic grommet that the port or dealer should have removed to install the antenna without creating a leak. The other is the opening (looking from inside, pax right rear) that goes down to where the grommet opening is.
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Awesome cruiser! Glad it found a new home in GA. I’m pumped for the build!
 
WINDSHIELD: UPDATE

So I can add myself now to the list of people with windshield install issues.

Found a company that the local Toyota dealership farms their glass out to and I felt good going in: In business 25 years, manager wasn't phased by any of the concerns and was knowledgeable about everything that I am now an expert on :rolleyes:.

Tech arrived and I tried to watch most of the install, but keeping track of a 3 yo boy can be tough, right? In my absence there were a few deviations from what I was hoping for as you can see in the last 2 pics.

Picture prior to install, previously drilled holes with what I would call mild rust, but nonetheless RUST.

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The front roof line was clean as well as the rest of the pillars.

I felt pretty good until
  1. the supplied rivets wouldn't hold which is no surprise since they were already drilled
  2. While I was chasing my 3yo around the tech then proceeded to drill new holes through my brand new trim pieces and into the A-pillar
  3. He then decided to use his trim which now looks like this at the top corners of the glass, even though I had all of the the trim pieces there
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So that's an 8mm gap (NBD) but when I asked him why he didn't at least take the trim all the way to the edges (like the OEM trim I had bought for the install) his response was " I do that on all my trim so water can flow down and around the glass".
As in UNDER the glass.

AM I MISSING SOMETHING HERE??? I clearly am no expert on this but I also have a few brain cells to rub together. PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong but at least on these windshields it seems they are designed such that water is NOT supposed to ingress between the glass and the A-pillar.

I can only imagine this will lead to not only water where it shouldn't be, but increased condensation and a pretty ripe environment for more rust formation in my now freshly drilled A-pillar holes.

I did actually ask him at that point if it was possible to redo it but he told me he'd just break the windshield trying. :bang:

Additionally the rear portions of the trim are already popping up, which isn't a big deal but COME ON MAN.

Anyways, I hope someone can chime in on this because I already left a message with the place stating my dissatisfaction.
 
WINDSHIELD: UPDATE

So I can add myself now to the list of people with windshield install issues.

Found a company that the local Toyota dealership farms their glass out to and I felt good going in: In business 25 years, manager wasn't phased by any of the concerns and was knowledgeable about everything that I am now an expert on :rolleyes:.

Tech arrived and I tried to watch most of the install, but keeping track of a 3 yo boy can be tough, right? In my absence there were a few deviations from what I was hoping for as you can see in the last 2 pics.

Picture prior to install, previously drilled holes with what I would call mild rust, but nonetheless RUST.

View attachment 1918001

The front roof line was clean as well as the rest of the pillars.

I felt pretty good until
  1. the supplied rivets wouldn't hold which is no surprise since they were already drilled
  2. While I was chasing my 3yo around the tech then proceeded to drill new holes through my brand new trim pieces and into the A-pillar
  3. He then decided to use his trim which now looks like this at the top corners of the glass, even though I had all of the the trim pieces there
View attachment 1918002

View attachment 1918021

So that's an 8mm gap (NBD) but when I asked him why he didn't at least take the trim all the way to the edges (like the OEM trim I had bought for the install) his response was " I do that on all my trim so water can flow down and around the glass".
As in UNDER the glass.

AM I MISSING SOMETHING HERE??? I clearly am no expert on this but I also have a few brain cells to rub together. PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong but at least on these windshields it seems they are designed such that water is NOT supposed to ingress between the glass and the A-pillar.

I can only imagine this will lead to not only water where it shouldn't be, but increased condensation and a pretty ripe environment for more rust formation in my now freshly drilled A-pillar holes.

I did actually ask him at that point if it was possible to redo it but he told me he'd just break the windshield trying. :bang:

Additionally the rear portions of the trim are already popping up, which isn't a big deal but COME ON MAN.

Anyways, I hope someone can chime in on this because I already left a message with the place stating my dissatisfaction.
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TREKBOXX TAILGATE COVER installed

No brainer since coming from the 80 it's the same story - nasty old carpet in a high traffic area = PITA

Originally ordered it in the TAN Line-X variety but due to wait times being out a few weeks David kindly offered an upgrade to the Richlite.

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WOOD TRIM REMOVAL

Easy enough, its hot here in the South so I didn't make any special preparations or use any special tools.

I hate rattles as well so I cut some pads to fit in the cup holders.

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NIGHTHAWK MODE: ENGAGE

Not a fan of chrome and my dad happened to visit in his new blacked out Cayenne. I had all but decided I would hold off on painting the grill because the prep time: finished product ratio wasn't worth it to me on the last truck. Additionally, I wasn't really a fan of the satin/ flat look of PlastiDip.
However, after seeing a few videos of applications that use the clear coat I decided it was worth a try and I could peel off if I didn't like it.
The more I go down this road though and seeing a few really nice blacked out 100's (@jno) I think I may continue and just black out the entire truck.

Anyways, here's the finished product. I think it turned out pretty well, I did 3 coats of Plastidip black and 2 of the clear top coat.

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NIGHTHAWK MODE: ENGAGE

Not a fan of chrome and my dad happened to visit in his new blacked out Cayenne. I had all but decided I would hold off on painting the grill because the prep time: finished product ratio wasn't worth it to me on the last truck. Additionally, I wasn't really a fan of the satin/ flat look of PlastiDip.
However, after seeing a few videos of applications that use the clear coat I decided it was worth a try and I could peel off if I didn't like it.
The more I go down this road though and seeing a few really nice blacked out 100's (@jno) I think I may continue and just black out the entire truck.

Anyways, here's the finished product. I think it turned out pretty well, I did 3 coats of Plastidip black and 2 of the clear top coat.

View attachment 2091836

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View attachment 2091838
Grille came out great! I'd love to see an all-black one with an ARB on it someday.
 
I really like the wood grain in my LX, but I can understand why a lot of people don't. The truck looks great!
 
NIGHTHAWK MODE: ENGAGE

Not a fan of chrome and my dad happened to visit in his new blacked out Cayenne. I had all but decided I would hold off on painting the grill because the prep time: finished product ratio wasn't worth it to me on the last truck. Additionally, I wasn't really a fan of the satin/ flat look of PlastiDip.
However, after seeing a few videos of applications that use the clear coat I decided it was worth a try and I could peel off if I didn't like it.
The more I go down this road though and seeing a few really nice blacked out 100's (@jno) I think I may continue and just black out the entire truck.

Anyways, here's the finished product. I think it turned out pretty well, I did 3 coats of Plastidip black and 2 of the clear top coat.

View attachment 2091836

View attachment 2091837

View attachment 2091838


I’m so proud of you!!

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