new to me 1974 FST

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MDH33 said:
The kits usually come with a crappy rubber plunger accelerator pump, so I usually try to re use the original leather ring pump if it's in good shape. I bet your nozzle is just plugged. A guitar string works great to clear it.
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I prefer a market produce twisty tie with the vinyl pulled back for field service. I keep several of them twisted around the arm of my sunvisor so they’re handy. Someone mentioned on a thread a few months ago having seen me use one on Cruise Moab in 2005😉

And fwiw, date code may not be relevant. I have a hunch that is a composite carb with an earlier air horn on a later model body.
 
well tomorrow I need to change the antifreeze. its good to 10, but thats not good enough for here. need to look at the spark plugs also. I ordered a remflex intake gasket as well, seems to have a leak and with the header I guess thats the best fix. I will check it for straightness while its off.
 
antifreeze changed, oil changed, valves adjusted. still waiting on the remflex gasket.
Now I need to figure out why the diff has so much slack. it has a lockrite in the rear, does that make it have alot of backlash? I need to pull the cover and check it all out I guess.
 
Gotta40 said:
antifreeze changed, oil changed, valves adjusted. still waiting on the remflex gasket.
Now I need to figure out why the diff has so much slack. it has a lockrite in the rear, does that make it have alot of backlash? I need to pull the cover and check it all out I guess.
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Yes, the Lockrite has a lot more backlash than a set of spider gears, especially a set of fresh, properly shimmed spider gears. It’s inherent in the design, so that the drivers have room to unlock AND pressure to force them back into the couplers.
If you’re not familiar with one, you should take the time to disassemble and reassemble it just for the education. When you NEED to take one apart is not the time to learn. Have a fresh pair of rear axle seals on hand when you do it.

Ten years ago a very adventuresome young man came into the shop for an emergency brake service on his 40, which he was taking to Terra Del Fuego in SA. He’d paid a shop In Austin to install a Lockrite, but they hadn’t changed the seals. Between TX and LA they failed and saturated his brakes with gear oil.🤬
 
I ran one for 10 plus years. I found making turns in neutral eliminated the feed back or slight power in the turns. If you just push in the clutch in a turn it would cause feedback. They certainly effect handling on acceleration and deacceleration. I had on in the front for a minute. I hated it.
 
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Messed around all day getting the drag link loose so I could reverse it. It was hitting the tie rod, and was loose.

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trying to figure out if I can make this drive better. Its very sloppy/loose overall. its got 2 1/2 lift springs, not sure of brand, just has made in canada stickers, and longer greasable shackles. also looks like 4 degree shims in the front. need to check actual caster in the front, but the springs are very loose feeling. toe in is around 1/8th", its pretty sketchy to drive around. has a fj80 steering box and crossover on it. feels like it needs stiffer springs or a aftermarket front sway bar. anyone ever done that to one? my 67 patrol has a 3" lift, and bias swampers, and it drives way better!
 
Gotta40 said:
trying to figure out if I can make this drive better. Its very sloppy/loose overall. its got 2 1/2 lift springs, not sure of brand, just has made in canada stickers, and longer greasable shackles. also looks like 4 degree shims in the front. need to check actual caster in the front, but the springs are very loose feeling. toe in is around 1/8th", its pretty sketchy to drive around. has a fj80 steering box and crossover on it. feels like it needs stiffer springs or a aftermarket front sway bar. anyone ever done that to one? my 67 patrol has a 3" lift, and bias swampers, and it drives way better!
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Looks like you might have adjusted your adjustable bits on the Tre’s?
 
It looks your drag link ends are from an FJ60. You probably need to measure your caster 1st and make sure the U bolts and bushings are tight and good.
 
caster is 1 degree. front shackles are 5 1/4 long. all the ubolts and bushings are tight. I adjusted the ends on the drag link has no slop now, just loosey goosey going around curves. its alot of work, but might have to swap in my 4" skyjacker springs and see what that does. gonna be difficult though, as they're on another fj and no extra springs to swap in, so one will have to be on the lift, and one on jackstands.
 
Remflex showed up. It's got some damage on it. Think it will still seal? Bought it of eBay so I'm out of luck warranty wise. Pics didn't show this damage.
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Make sure the manifolds are flat. If that gasket has a fiber fill I would soak it in warm water for 20 minutes to soften up some and allow the high spot to dig in easier. Torque in sequence 1/3. then 2/3 and finally at 100%. Fire the engine up and let it get hot, let cool off then do it again at 100%. After a dozen or 2 heat cycles do it again at 100%.
 
Yeah I got it apart, intake looks straight but I ended up sanding it on a flat surface anyhow just to make sure. Thinking about bead blasting it as well so it looks nice again. Slippery slope as I like to detail things out, but don't have the time right now to get carried away with it. Would be nice to paint the block while it's off also!
It had an intake leak on the front runner so I wanted to make sure it was flat.

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