new tires.. what pressure should i run

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May 4, 2011
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Long Island, NY
I just got 33x10.5r15 bfg ats on my 92. What pressure would you all recommend i run for normal road driving. Right now i am running around 40psi. The truck is pretty much stock, only things adding extra weight is my york OBA a few lights and a aluminum half length roof rack.

ps they are load range c

thanks.
 
It continues to amaze me that this question gets asked over and over on all sorts of automotive forums. Check the sticker on the drivers door frame, it gives you the recommended inflation pressures for light and heavy loads. The sidewall of the tire is the tires Max. inflation pressure and HAS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH what you should be running them at.
 
My answer to the OP is a reference point I have found for this rig and gas mileage and comfort for MY NORMAL ROAD DRIVING. I answered his exact question with my experience with the mods and tires listed in my sig. It continues to amaze me that people rotely follow the recommendations on the door sticker without regard to their own experiences with their rig and regard to the MAXIMUM and MINIMUM tire pressures listed on the tire by the manufacturer.

[/I]NG. [/I]
It continues to amaze me that this question gets asked over and over on all sorts of automotive forums. Check the sticker on the drivers door frame, it gives you the recommended inflation pressures for light and heavy loads. The sidewall of the tire is the tires Max. inflation pressure and HAS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH what you should be running them at.
 
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Possibly, or you may have appropriate tires and just be a moron who runs them out of the manufacturer's range because you didn't look at the sidewall. Oh and let's Lets' not forget to look at the door sticker when airing them down off road, wouldn't want to air them down below what the door sticker recommmends!


Then you would have inappropriate tires on the vehicle.
 
Kevin,

If i had the stock tire configuration i would follow the sticker. As you saw from my post, i have 33 inch tires. I am sorry for wasting your time. If anyone else has input i would appreciate it.

Beachcomber, thanks for your suggestion.
 
The long answer - not by me

I worked for Michelin Tire Corporation for 7 years and Yokohama Tire Corporation for 11 years. I have given numerous tire seminars on tire maintenance and especially how to determine the correct tire pressures. So here goes.
The pressure on the sidewall of the tire is the maximum pressure at the published load at approximately 55 mph. (The speed can vary somewhat but it is not important for our discussion).
The air pressure is required to support the load that the tire must carry in such a manner that the tire flexes at the designed place on the sidewall of the tire.
If the load on the tire changes then the air pressure should change accordingly to keep the tire flexing at the proper place.
The reason for correct air pressure is to prevent the tire from overheating. It was put together with heat and it will come apart the same way. An under inflated tire will eventually self destruct due to excessive heat build up. An over inflated tire will ride harshly and be more likely to burst upon impact. Sorry for the long explanation but here is the bottom line.
To determine the correct air pressure, check the pressure when the tire is cold. Run the tire for several miles at highway speed. Stop and immediately check the air pressue in the tire. It should be higher than we cold but no more than 10% higher.
Now here is the hard to believe part. If the pressure is more than 10% higher you must ADD AIR and test again. For example if you start with 50 psi cold. If the pressure is 60 when hot, you have exceeded the (10%) in this case, 55 psi maximum safe heat build up pressure. You must ADD AIR. In this case I would add 5 psi which would take the tire to 65 psi when hot. After you run the tire again you will find the pressure to actually drop because the tire will run cooler. The heat build up causes the tire pressure to increase when under inflated.
On the other hand, if the 50 psi cold pressure does not change when hot. You have more air than needed. You can remove 5 psi or so and test again when they return to cold. Like the next trip you take.
So a fully loaded rig will require more air in the tires than one with empty tanks and a light load on board. Always error on the side of over inflation. Thus the maximum sidewall pressure indicated on the tire is usually used. It usually is more than needed. Each axle has its own requirement based upon the load on that axle.
 
An inch and a half of tire is not going to make that big of a difference. You can also try chalking the treads to find an ideal for your setup, weight etc.
 
my truck (93 FZJ) no longer has the door sticker, and it didn't come with the factory owner's manual... can someone post that as a start point?
 
Thank you for this! SO if the original pressure is at max when cold (say 50 psi) adding pressure is determining if it is underinflated for the load and air temp/road conditions et al as the max pressure is not necessarily high enough in certain cases? Is there any rule of thumb as to how much above max is reasonable for continuous use? Thanks.


The long answer - not by me

I worked for Michelin Tire Corporation for 7 years and Yokohama Tire Corporation for 11 years. I have given numerous tire seminars on tire maintenance and especially how to determine the correct tire pressures. So here goes.
The pressure on the sidewall of the tire is the maximum pressure at the published load at approximately 55 mph. (The speed can vary somewhat but it is not important for our discussion).
The air pressure is required to support the load that the tire must carry in such a manner that the tire flexes at the designed place on the sidewall of the tire.
If the load on the tire changes then the air pressure should change accordingly to keep the tire flexing at the proper place.
The reason for correct air pressure is to prevent the tire from overheating. It was put together with heat and it will come apart the same way. An under inflated tire will eventually self destruct due to excessive heat build up. An over inflated tire will ride harshly and be more likely to burst upon impact. Sorry for the long explanation but here is the bottom line.
To determine the correct air pressure, check the pressure when the tire is cold. Run the tire for several miles at highway speed. Stop and immediately check the air pressue in the tire. It should be higher than we cold but no more than 10% higher.
Now here is the hard to believe part. If the pressure is more than 10% higher you must ADD AIR and test again. For example if you start with 50 psi cold. If the pressure is 60 when hot, you have exceeded the (10%) in this case, 55 psi maximum safe heat build up pressure. You must ADD AIR. In this case I would add 5 psi which would take the tire to 65 psi when hot. After you run the tire again you will find the pressure to actually drop because the tire will run cooler. The heat build up causes the tire pressure to increase when under inflated.
On the other hand, if the 50 psi cold pressure does not change when hot. You have more air than needed. You can remove 5 psi or so and test again when they return to cold. Like the next trip you take.
So a fully loaded rig will require more air in the tires than one with empty tanks and a light load on board. Always error on the side of over inflation. Thus the maximum sidewall pressure indicated on the tire is usually used. It usually is more than needed. Each axle has its own requirement based upon the load on that axle.
 
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10% rules applies to air but what about N2 or C02?

They don't expand the same way, so it doesn't really apply.


IMHO, tire pressure is a combination of factors and requirements. There is a wide range of pressure you can run without running into issues, but it heavily depends on the tire, the rim, the vehicle, and personal preference.

To use my vehicle as an example...

Toyota recommends (as per the door sticker) running at 32 PSI on P275/70R16 (this is based on the stock weight, as per the sticker). Since I've never run that size tire, this recommendation is fairly academic for me. But this recommendation isn't a "run this or you'll crash into a bus full of nuns carrying a load of orphan children to the homes they've always dreamed of" requirement, this is Toyota's recommendation for the PSI to run that gives the best balance of control, comfort, and fuel mileage (especially the last one).

As a general rule of thumb, you can run a higher PSI to get better gas mileage or a lower PSI to get more comfort. Handling requires a balance of the two--too much and the tire won't flex and grip, too little and it gets sloppy.

The reason Toyota's recommendation isn't an end-all-to-end-all is because the PSI to run depends heavily upon the tire. A load range E will take far lower PSI and perform/handle exactly the same as a load range C with higher PSI. Toyota's recommendation only takes tire size into account, not load range, construction, design, etc. So it's merely a recommendation, a place to start.


The more common requirement that pressure is based off of is the tire. Most tires only have a max pressure, though many have a minimum as well. To go back to my truck as an example, I'm running 37x12.5x16.5 Goodyear Baja's, and they recommend "at 3850 lbs 50 PSI when cold." Notice that the tire pressure is based off weight? Now none of our pigs are that heavy, to the point where they'd be hitting 3850 lbs per tire (yikes! :eek: ), but based on the tire manufacturers testing 50 PSI is ideal at 3850 lbs. So while the tire would happily run 50 PSI, you would only enjoy it if you were looking to loose some teeth while driving down the road.

For most tires, the max pressure they'll happily run at is far higher than what we find comfortable, or necessary (based on our weight). So the pressure range often doesn't really apply to us too much. Where it would come into play is running a lighter tire where you might want to run a higher PSI as the weight of the vehicle is bumping up against the max. But for most D/E tires, it's a non-issue. (For example I wouldn't want to run 10 PSI less than max on the :princess: truck. The ride at 70 PSI would suck!)

For my usage, the rim comes into play. Since I'm running the split H1 rim, it's a little different than a one piece. And in this case, the split rim has stamped on it "do not exceed 30 PSI." This is due to the design and construction. Most rims don't have a max PSI (or at least not a max PSI you'll hit), but it's a good idea to look for one.

So to sum up, we have:

Toyota recommendation: 32 PSI
Tire max: 50 PSI at 3850 lbs
Rim max: 30 PSI

So guess what I run? 30 PSI.


For the OP, I suggest you get all the min, max, and recommended ranges, and then make a judgement call from there. But keep in mind that it's heavily based on setup (heavier vehicle requires higher pressure), what exactly you have installed, and how much gas mileage you want to give up for comfort.
 
I know this thread is a few days old, but I figured I'd throw up an old method I was taught long ago:

1) Take max weight that the tire can support (should be on the sidewall) and multiply that by 4. This give you the total weight that all four tires can support.

2) Take the weight of your Land Cruiser and divide that into the total weight your tires can support.

3) Divide this number into the max PSI on the sidewall. This should give you an ideal air pressure based on the weight of your rig and what the tire is designed to do.

Example:

Max load on tires of 2000 lbs. at 50 psi max

2000 x 4 = 8000

Say the Cruiser weighs 6500 lbs.

8000/6500 = 1.23

50/1.23 = 40.1 lbs. or so.



This is a way, not the only way.

I realize the weight on our rigs isn't distributed equally, which is why this is merely a point of reference.
 
KevinNY said:
It continues to amaze me that this question gets asked over and over on all sorts of automotive forums. Check the sticker on the drivers door frame, it gives you the recommended inflation pressures for light and heavy loads. The sidewall of the tire is the tires Max. inflation pressure and HAS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH what you should be running them at.

It is asked, because once you have a different tire than the stock (p rated?) tires, and/or have changed the weight of the vehicle, the door sticker no longer applies. Frankly, most would disagree with you about running the pressure written on the door sticker.

On the street, I run 40-45 psi with my E load rated, 3 ply sidewall, LT tires. The tread has worn pretty evenly over the years.

Yohavos- that is an interesting calculation, I'll have to test that out.

Sent from my DROIDX using Forum Runner
 
I run those exact tires on my 91 as street tires, and the answer is, it depends. I am one to pay close attention to air pressure and adjust it accordingly to loads, towing, etc.

What Kevin mentioned about the door sticker would be correct IF the OEM size and load range were maintained as this is what was spec'd. However, once that has changed, you must adapt your pressures as well. Phil posted some real good info even if it did come from him ;)

In any case, when my truck is empty I'm set around 35. This gives a comfortable ride and the truck corners well. When I'm loaded up with camping gear and pulling a trailer like I will be for this coming weekend, I bring them up to 44 or 45. If it's a road trip with the family and not a ton of gear, it's somewhere in between.

After 18 months with this set of tires, including my round trip out west, the tire wear is very even across the tread on all 4. I also tend to rotate very frequently as I am swapping tires between street and off road all season long. This tends to extend the tire life. My spare doesn't get mixed in.

If you join us this weekend we can spend some time discussing tire pressure around the fire until we pass out.
Kevin is invited too.
 
I'm starting to get steering shake occuring at about 60 to 70 kph again. I'm going to get another alignment done when I get paid, but in the meantime I'm trying to get my head around whether the tyre pressures are having an effect.

I run Cooper AT3 LT 285/75r16 tyres and currently use a pressure of 40 PSI all round, but the tyre placard stuck on the b-pillar says the factory pressures should be 280 (240) KPa front and 350 (300) KPa rear which equates to 40.6 (34.8) PSI front and 50.8 (43.5) rear.

Am I doing something wrong by using an all-round 40 PSI pressure spec? Is that likely to contribute to the steering shake (which occurs both during powering and braking in the 60 to 70 kph range)?

I know shake can be a product of bad caster. Last time I had the alignment done the caster was +4.2. The lift is set to about 3" with medium rate springs and Icon 2.0 shocks so it's quite 'springy' and not very hard suspension.

Craig.
 
I'm starting to get steering shake occuring at about 60 to 70 kph again. I'm going to get another alignment done when I get paid, but in the meantime I'm trying to get my head around whether the tyre pressures are having an effect.

I run Cooper AT3 LT 285/75r16 tyres and currently use a pressure of 40 PSI all round, but the tyre placard stuck on the b-pillar says the factory pressures should be 280 (240) KPa front and 350 (300) KPa rear which equates to 40.6 (34.8) PSI front and 50.8 (43.5) rear.

Am I doing something wrong by using an all-round 40 PSI pressure spec? Is that likely to contribute to the steering shake (which occurs both during powering and braking in the 60 to 70 kph range)?

I know shake can be a product of bad caster. Last time I had the alignment done the caster was +4.2. The lift is set to about 3" with medium rate springs and Icon 2.0 shocks so it's quite 'springy' and not very hard suspension.

Craig.

Do you realize this thread is 6 years old, have you looked at everything like knuckles and wheel bearings, and tyre balance caster has nothing to with that unless you lifted it
 
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