Builds FastLane1000 Black GX Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 28, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
95
Location
Knoxville, TN
Hey Guys and Gals, I have enjoyed the info here as well as the GXOR FB page. I have had a few Toyotas over the years including a '88 Pickup 4x4 5 spd, '98 Tacoma sr5 Reg. Cab 4x4 5 spd, and an '06 Tacoma Dbl Cab TRD Sport. My wife was driving the GX but we got her a 2015 VW Touareg. I drive a 2012 Stage 2 Dual Pulley Audi A6 as my daily. The GX is a 2005 in excellent condition with 146,000 miles. We had the timing belt, radiator and water pump replaced a few thousand miles ago and installed Michelin tires. Other than oil changes and diff/transfer case fluid change, that is the service history since we purchased it with 123k on the clock. It was a dealer serviced one-owner previously from the Atlanta area. After a lot of research, I have decided on the following suspension / lift upgrades. I appreciate any feedback or suggestions regarding alternatives or installation tips. I beat up a pretty nice '05 Tahoe Z71 with 35s and 6"+ lift a few years back so I'm not looking to do that again. I do want to hit some easier trails occasionally and take the family on some outdoor adventures and camping. I'd also like my wife to be comfortable driving it if needed.

Bilstein 5100s front and rear
Toytec 521600 front coils (2.5" lift 600lb)
KYB Top hats
Toytec top plate spacer kit for a full 3" of lift with the 5100s on the bottom setting
Toytec front sway bar relocation brackets
JBA std high caster UCAs
Bluepit front hub bearing assemblies
Wheeler's SuperBump bump stops front and rear
SSO rear coil coversion
Toytec 2" Super Flex rear coils
Proforged rear tie rod ends 113-10144
Rear Diff breather extension
G2 1.25" hubcentric wheel spacer/adapters
5 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 285/70/17 tires
White-Knuckle Off Road Rock Sliders Powder Coated
VAIS SL3u-L Aux input
Rugged Radios RH5R Dual Band Handheld Radio


I may add a little extra lighting down the road. I did install a Morimoto HID kit in the low beam projectors a year or so back when my wife drove the GX.


I am completely removing the lines, compressor, brackets, linkages, etc. associated with the rear air bags. I hope to have enough room for the spare underneath. (I do deflated)

I could have ordered a complete Toytec kit (or other brand like Dobinsons) but I asked for some of the various small parts for Christmas. Installation will be happening between Christmas and the New Year.

I know this is nothing new but I will update with pics as the upgrades begin.

Thanks!
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Welcome.
Sounds like you have a nice, capable build planned out.

I went with the OPOR sliders and enjoy them. I did not use the nutserts though.
 
Welcome.
Sounds like you have a nice, capable build planned out.

I went with the OPOR sliders and enjoy them. I did not use the nutserts though.

Thanks for the suggestion and feedback. I prefer the bolt on route but I would not use the inserts either. Bolts through the frame or weld on. I'll check out the OPOR sliders. I like the Metal Tech as well. I want the kick out but not a pronounced kick out if that makes sense.

I am interested in others experience with stock lower control arms and bushings. Being a stock, southern vehicle they should be in decent shape for an '05 with 146k but still age and miles come in to play at some point.
 
check out the budbuilt sliders.... they are extremely well built and bolt through the frame..... love the design and easy install. the second pic shows the material thickness of the backer plates for the through bolts.... thses suckers arent going anywhere.


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check out the budbuilt sliders.... they are extremely well built and bolt through the frame..... love the design and easy install. the second pic shows the material thickness of the backer plates for the through bolts.... thses suckers arent going anywhere.


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I like the simple rugged look of those for sure. Thanks for posting the detailed pics too. I had the Trail Gear Sliders on the Tahoe I used to wheel. I may even go with them again. What I save in the purchase I'd probably spend to have them welded on. Sounds like a lot of folks that buy the bolt ons end up welding anyways though...

My JBA control arms arrived today. Of all the parts that have arrived these are definitely the prettiest. I called to ask them about any holiday specials they could offer but none were available. It was Marlin himself that answered the phone. He was very knowledgeable. I ended placing the order after we got off the phone. The packaging was nice and the quality is obvious.

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Why did you opt for the standard UCA instead of the high caster UCA by JBA?>
Both the Std and HD have the same high caster settings. The HD is just built stronger to take abuse from jumping and higher speeds offroad. For a daily driver on 33" tires and mild offroad trails these are more than enough. The HD arms are a couple hundred more as well. It looks like they do offer a std stock replacement too. I updated my build list to show the arms as "std high caster"
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Well I went ahead and ordered new Moog Problem Solver bushings and ball joints for the lower control arms. I figure with the age and miles I might as well go ahead and do any front end maintenance while it is apart. I also ordered a couple Toyota CV boot kits. I have one cracked currently that I sealed up with some silicone tape but they will probably only get worse with a lift. Aside from sway bar bushings and end links, I'll have the whole front end rebuilt by the first of the year. It should ride and drive pretty good though.
 
Yesterday I removed the running boards. I'm happy with the cuts made to retain the upper portion of the running board trim for a clean look. The pictures don't show it well. I also had the TPMS light flashing after a trip through the car wash this morning. I checked the tires. I checked the switch below the steering column. If you remove the cover under the glove box and unplug the harness going to the green tpms box you can cut and ground the blue wire (#6). You ground the end that runs up through the harness. No more TPMS light. A quick google search showed the bypass in another forum.

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Which JBA Arms did you go with? What year and miles on your rig? I'm hoping I can make do with my stock lowers a while longer.

I got the std high caster arms also.
I have an icon lift and 285's so I'm hoping these will help get my alignment back to factory specs.
I have an 06' with 162k miles.
I actually have new lowers to install with these uppers.
 
I got the std high caster arms also.
I have an icon lift and 285's so I'm hoping these will help get my alignment back to factory specs.
I have an 06' with 162k miles.
I actually have new lowers to install with these uppers.

I went ahead and ordered Moog Problem solver bushings and ball joints for the LCAs. I don't think alignments will be a problem with the JBA arms. I am very impressed with the UCAs and JBA in general. Thankfully we have Caster and Camber adjustments from the factory unlike a lot of other vehicles.
 
Skyjacker (a leaf spring suspension manufacturer) sends religious pamphlets with their products as well :rolleyes:
 
My 285/70/17 Goodyear Duratracs arrived so I thought I'd bump this thread with a picture until I get to turning wrenches. The Duratracs are labeled at a full 33" vs others that are 32.7". They look aggressive but in reality most of my use will still be on pavement. I am interested to see how they do off road compared to the Coopers I have run in the past on other vehicles. I am staying with the stock wheels for now since I have some G2 spacers I bought a while back but never installed. I actually gave them to a friend to put on his 4runner. He gave them back after selling the 4runner to his mom.

After a lot of research and looking at pictures I decided on the White Knuckle Off Road sliders. These should be here in a few weeks. I am super stoked about these. They have a rectangular slider with tapered ends available in HREW or DOM steal (I'm getting DOM). They have a kickout but not too pronounced. Plus you don't have to drill any holes in the frame (no nutserts). They mount with clamps that go around the frame. This makes them completely removable although I will probably weld them on later. They also angle up slightly and just have a clean look to them. More to come...
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Well the time finally arrived. I was on break last week and had time to work on the GX. I installed the lift and did some general maintenance. the first post shows my parts list. In general this was a Bilstein/Toytec 3" lift with Duratrac 285s. A couple takeaways. Don't try replacing bushings on your oem LCAs. Buy new control arms. I was not able to press out the old bushings so I took them to a shop and they even had a hard time. I saved a couple hundred dollars I suppose... Also I'm kinda proud of the fender liners I made. I took out the old brittle liners that go on either side of the UCAs and traced them out on some vinyl flooring I found a Lowes. They turned out great. I have maybe $10 in the set of 4 with new fasteners. I did the fender mods for clearance. I found the SSO coil conversion spring perch bumpers (the red part) were worthless. The diameter was too small for the Toytec Superflex springs. I trashed those and slid some 3/4" radiator hose over the bottom coil on each side. I removed all the old air tank, height sensors, compressor, etc. I have a fully inflated 33" spare tire in the stock location. removing the clip which holds in the rear air bags was super easy. Just take a coat hanger and put a little hook in one end and slide it between the frame and body and hook the clip and pull. Pics below! Can't wait for my WKOR sliders to arrive! Maybe I'll do some rock lights and such. I'd like to put a locker in the rear but I'm not sure which way I want to go with that yet. Hopefully the next pics I post will be off road somewhere.
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Looks great, nice work! The Superflex make for a nice too.
It rides great! It really rides better than stock but stock had 146k and 13 years on it. Superflex in the rear and the Toytec 521600 in the front on the bottom perch. I could not be happier!
 

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