I think you can still buy new sway bar end links
Builds New Guy Intro with an FZJ75 Troopy (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter mcmarshing
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- Thread starter
- #62
For guys with 1FZ powered 70's:
Consider just getting a new OE radiator or fix the old one (if you can) when it breaks. The aftermarket ones can be odd (I honestly could only find 1-2 Chinese brands)
Things that are odd:
1. The second small tube of coolant leaving the engine doesn't have a spot to attach to radiator
2. The charcoal canister (I think) bracket bolt holes are missing/not aligned
3. The radiator shroud holes don't match up
4. The main coolant inlet doesn't have the right angle to the engine (see harsher angle in photo above)
Probably cost me $300 after shipping etc. to get this one. I wish I had just paid the $2-300 extra to not have to deal with all of the extra stuff. Debating on just getting a new OE one...
In other good news though, she's back on 4 wheels for now.
Consider just getting a new OE radiator or fix the old one (if you can) when it breaks. The aftermarket ones can be odd (I honestly could only find 1-2 Chinese brands)
Things that are odd:
1. The second small tube of coolant leaving the engine doesn't have a spot to attach to radiator
2. The charcoal canister (I think) bracket bolt holes are missing/not aligned
3. The radiator shroud holes don't match up
4. The main coolant inlet doesn't have the right angle to the engine (see harsher angle in photo above)
Probably cost me $300 after shipping etc. to get this one. I wish I had just paid the $2-300 extra to not have to deal with all of the extra stuff. Debating on just getting a new OE one...
In other good news though, she's back on 4 wheels for now.
Learned a valuable lesson.... when in doubt buy the OEM part.
- Thread starter
- #64
Starting hacking away at this... Unfortunately I found some rust holes (Pic 3)... Gonna have to cut out and weld like 3 spots...
And random knuckle photo I can't get rid of...
Agree with Onur on this one heartily... OEM for key mechanical components like a radiator and such. Alternatives include OEM supplier parts (Aisin, Denso, etc.). If I were you I'd just order up the OEM radiator and get it done right.
Love the progress man! The emptied rear area looks very familiar. You've got rust in lieu of the 100+ drilled holes that I have... but essentially the same issue. But these make for fun projects!
- Thread starter
- #66
Been busy, but been taking photos whenever I can, whenever I've been able to work on the truck. I recently recruited a friend who I've worked with in the past to bring an '85 pickup back to life that had a lot of body rust holes.
I ended up cutting out the troopy floor part that usually holds the bench seats of the troopy down (or so I assume). I've never actually seen how the bench seat hold down mechanism works, nor have I seen the mechanism itself before, and ideally I would have like to have kept them... but the rust there had to go.
I also got my OE Toyota radiator (16400-66060) and shroud (16711-66020) +all the extra consumable hardware. I'm shocked with how heavy it is compared to the aftermarket aluminum one I ordered earlier. Fits like a glove though.
I ended up cutting out the troopy floor part that usually holds the bench seats of the troopy down (or so I assume). I've never actually seen how the bench seat hold down mechanism works, nor have I seen the mechanism itself before, and ideally I would have like to have kept them... but the rust there had to go.
I also got my OE Toyota radiator (16400-66060) and shroud (16711-66020) +all the extra consumable hardware. I'm shocked with how heavy it is compared to the aftermarket aluminum one I ordered earlier. Fits like a glove though.
- Thread starter
- #67
Was able to finally get around to replacing a D-Pillar step that's been rusting (61054-90K03) + (90901-19054 x2)
Current status of the floor:
It's not pretty, but I had the heavier sheet metal already from a previous project, and I plan on doing the MasterSeries Silver/Spectrum/Raptor Liner (in white) on the floor @c2dfj45 combo that I think the raptor liner texture will make the "flat sheets" less noticeable. Plus, it will be covered by the original vinyl "carpet" on top of that. I'll also be subbing out MasterSeries for POR15 since I have a lot of it from a previous project as well.
Also got the radiator in, plus Cruiser Outfitter's Koito H4 headlight and harness kit. Had to also get fresh parts that hold the headlights in (the plastics "clips", screws, rings that hold the headlights etc). Really shocked with how affordable Cruiser Outfitter's H4 kit is ($45!?) since I was seeing just the headlights on eBay with asking prices $100+. For now, I kinda just connected the lights amateur style directly to battery connectors, if anybody has protips on how they organized the fuse, the relay etc. I'm all ears. I'm probably going to just get a better battery post connector that can directly have secondary attachments, and attach the headlight power to the post connectors (similar to how many people directly wire winches). I don't like having fuses/relays hanging around on their own, but I feel like the headlights are an essential part of the truck that can afford to be it's own stand alone circuit from the battery. But outside of that I plan on running every "add-on" to a fusebox behind the interior side panels.
Also finally put bonnet guard on. I'll eventually have to treat the part of my bonnet that got chipped on my last trip... But I wanted to put it on before I accidentally break it since it was sitting in a pile of parts. So technically it's drivable now. I'll probably get a dB meter and test out the dB difference of how much the sound deadening actually helps in reducing noise as that's the next phase this truck is going to. Shortly followed by getting the electrical and sound system set up so that there's good audio for the road trips, and have more than 1 cigarette outlet for 12V power to support at least a fridge.
Getting the grind on every day in hopes to be able to go on a big trip to go up the coast for Thanksgiving with this bad larry.
Current status of the floor:
It's not pretty, but I had the heavier sheet metal already from a previous project, and I plan on doing the MasterSeries Silver/Spectrum/Raptor Liner (in white) on the floor @c2dfj45 combo that I think the raptor liner texture will make the "flat sheets" less noticeable. Plus, it will be covered by the original vinyl "carpet" on top of that. I'll also be subbing out MasterSeries for POR15 since I have a lot of it from a previous project as well.
Also got the radiator in, plus Cruiser Outfitter's Koito H4 headlight and harness kit. Had to also get fresh parts that hold the headlights in (the plastics "clips", screws, rings that hold the headlights etc). Really shocked with how affordable Cruiser Outfitter's H4 kit is ($45!?) since I was seeing just the headlights on eBay with asking prices $100+. For now, I kinda just connected the lights amateur style directly to battery connectors, if anybody has protips on how they organized the fuse, the relay etc. I'm all ears. I'm probably going to just get a better battery post connector that can directly have secondary attachments, and attach the headlight power to the post connectors (similar to how many people directly wire winches). I don't like having fuses/relays hanging around on their own, but I feel like the headlights are an essential part of the truck that can afford to be it's own stand alone circuit from the battery. But outside of that I plan on running every "add-on" to a fusebox behind the interior side panels.
Also finally put bonnet guard on. I'll eventually have to treat the part of my bonnet that got chipped on my last trip... But I wanted to put it on before I accidentally break it since it was sitting in a pile of parts. So technically it's drivable now. I'll probably get a dB meter and test out the dB difference of how much the sound deadening actually helps in reducing noise as that's the next phase this truck is going to. Shortly followed by getting the electrical and sound system set up so that there's good audio for the road trips, and have more than 1 cigarette outlet for 12V power to support at least a fridge.
Getting the grind on every day in hopes to be able to go on a big trip to go up the coast for Thanksgiving with this bad larry.
- Thread starter
- #68
FYI for anybody sound deadening, there’s a 20% off labor day sale that ends today for Second Skin products. Saved myself a couple hundred bucks buying Damplifier Pro and Spectrum.
Thanks for posting... I've been meaning to check their site all weekend and keep forgetting. I'll definitely be placing an order today!
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Shoot. I just bought quite a bit 2 weeks ago.
- Thread starter
- #71
Today's progress...
- Thread starter
- #72
Took it for it's first drive since March or so... Drove all of maybe 1km, and washed it up and was reminded how tall troopy's are when I was washing the roof.
Some pictures of progress:
Started applying Second Skin products.
Photo after first coat. I'm currently at about 3-4 coats now (depending on the area) and I still think I need 2 more coats in some areas in order to get a nice "thud" when I knock on the panels instead of the sound of a hollow oil drum. Used 5 sheets of Damplifier Pro on the sides, and I wish I had just used all 8 sheets that I currently have on the sides. I decided against using Damplifier in the footwells since my passenger side floor rotted out because some water got trapped under the OE butyl dampening, but I do wish I had used some of the Damplifier Pro sheeting on the transmission hump (where water is less likely to get caught). I've probably spent atleast 3 solid hours just brushing and spraying Spectrum, and the sheets would have gone a long way had I covered as much as possible with it. After 3-4 coats I think i've used about 3 gallons. I'll be doing the doors at a later time when I'm figuring out my stereo/audio situation in the near future.
Some pictures of progress:
Started applying Second Skin products.
Photo after first coat. I'm currently at about 3-4 coats now (depending on the area) and I still think I need 2 more coats in some areas in order to get a nice "thud" when I knock on the panels instead of the sound of a hollow oil drum. Used 5 sheets of Damplifier Pro on the sides, and I wish I had just used all 8 sheets that I currently have on the sides. I decided against using Damplifier in the footwells since my passenger side floor rotted out because some water got trapped under the OE butyl dampening, but I do wish I had used some of the Damplifier Pro sheeting on the transmission hump (where water is less likely to get caught). I've probably spent atleast 3 solid hours just brushing and spraying Spectrum, and the sheets would have gone a long way had I covered as much as possible with it. After 3-4 coats I think i've used about 3 gallons. I'll be doing the doors at a later time when I'm figuring out my stereo/audio situation in the near future.
Loads of work. Looks so good!
I need to get back into my Troopy interior work...
I need to get back into my Troopy interior work...
great job.
I see your roof has the side holes for the rack... do you have the rack to be placed up there?
- Thread starter
- #75
Yeah it came with the OE aluminum roofrack (I think there’s a photo of it on the first few pages of the thread). I took it off cuz It wouldn’t fit under any parking structures.
- Thread starter
- #76
Finally finished the prescribed 10 day wait period Second Skin recommends before bedlining.
This is after 2 24oz bottles of raptor liner. Probably going to need 5 in total.
Also, I may be goofing up here, but the @TRAIL TAILOR recovery hooks don't seem to be compatible with an ARB bull bar. The tubular member that goes across (right above my thumb in the photo) seems to get in the way. If anybody wants some recovery hooks and doesn't have an ARB bull bar, let me know.
This is after 2 24oz bottles of raptor liner. Probably going to need 5 in total.
Also, I may be goofing up here, but the @TRAIL TAILOR recovery hooks don't seem to be compatible with an ARB bull bar. The tubular member that goes across (right above my thumb in the photo) seems to get in the way. If anybody wants some recovery hooks and doesn't have an ARB bull bar, let me know.
That raptor liner came out great! The 2 bottles looks pretty good... why do you think you'll need five? You just want it thicker still? I'm pretty sure that's my eventual plan for the bottom of the tub.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Really nice and it appears to match the body color well. I'm taking notes for my 55 resto. I might spray it over the spectrum in the floor of my 75 as well now that I think about it.
- Thread starter
- #79
I can't take credit for the idea, I got it from what @c2dfj45 did to his Troopy. For color I just used "GM work truck white, color code GAZ" that all government and work truck's are. It's not perfect but I'm putting the OG carpet over anyways.
I ended up using 5 bottles of Raptor Liner in the end with 3oz of tint each. 4 probably would have done the job, but I used the last bottle to get the little spots that I missed or were undercoated. @Honger You can't see it in the original photo I posted above, but since the Spectrum has a lumpy texture to it, I had to hit the same spot from different angles to make sure the Raptor Liner covered all of the Spectrum.
Great thread, lots of great pics of all the hard work you're doing. I've got an older troopy as well with the 1HZ engine, which is nice here in Panama where the gov't subsidizes diesel. The running joke is that my mid-life crisis car goes zero to sixty in a blistering 8 minutes. But i love the thing, fun as hell to drive even just into town, and it can go freaking anywhere. Cheers.
