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From what I can tell the early cruisers started off with a mechanical linkage. Mechanical in the sense there were rods and fulcrums that actuated the carb throttle plates. That was from 1958-1967.
Then in 1968 Toyota switched over to a cable driven linkage. For 2 years 1968-1969 that cable was around 18 inches long.
Then in 1970 Toyota made the cable longer. Like 25 inches long. This was used from 1970- 09/1973 we Toyota decided the mechanical rods were the way to go.
From 09/73 to 07/87 Toyota stuck with the mechanical linkage.
Initially this carb would only fit 1980-1987 2f's. The reason it's just for these years is it's 9mm shorter than the 09/73-1979 carbs. Because those cruiser came equipped with the EGR tube that was sandwiched in between the carb it made them taller than the later carbs. Also the choke cable changed during that transition. It went from having a throttle stop (the little clamp on the carb that holds the throttle cable to the choke linkage) to having a place where the later choke cable ends clipped in.
So in summery
1970-09/73 throttle cable linkage
09/73-07/87 mechanical linkage
09/73-1979 tall carb
1979-07/87 short carb (9mm short).
So what I did was design a carb that would fit all those years. With a few modifications. Here is what I did.
If you have a later 1980-1987 cruiser the only thing you will need to modify is the idle solenoid power connection. If you want to keep the stock look I'd suggest cutting my end that I have supplied off and splice yours off your old carb on. There were way to many variations. Mine is a simple spade connector. Not much though in the way of modifications. But it's probably wise to inspect your carb and see if it has the EGR tube sandwiched in the middle.
If you have an earlier cruiser 09/73-1979 you will need to do a few things to make it fit.
1. the carb is shorter than the original. If you are using the stock air cleaner and use this carb there will be a 9mm gap between them. I have made an adapter that will fix this. You just slide it over the top. I designed it to be a tight fit and if you still have your gasket on your air cleaner I'd recommend installing the adapter in the air cleaner first. You can use a twisting motion to get it in.
2. The early choke cables have no provision for a cable stop (little lead barrel on the end of the cable). I supply a cable stop so that you can still use your early choke cable. It should be pretty easy to figure out how it goes. Basically you insert the stop in the choke cable mechanism on the carb with the screw facing out. Then insert the cable and tighten it down.
3. Fuel lines. The carb sits 9mm lower than the stock early carbs. This means the fuel inlet is 9mm low. This shouldn't be a problem but it will require you to slightly bend the fuel line to get it to fit.
4. You will need to attach a female spade connector to your idle solenoid wire on your harness. Or if you have your old carb you can cut that connector off and splice it on the new one so it has the factory look.
5. If you have a fuel return line currently on your carb. Plug it. You won't need it for this carb. You can cap it at the carb or better yet cap it at the fuel pump. One less thing to have to worry about.
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If you live in a higher altitude. Say above 5000 feet the high altitude jets are included. They reside behind the float bowl drains.
All in all it's a very simple swap.
I don't think many people know these exist.