Cool cool. 220. Lol.
New 60 owner and Build thread
- Thread starter Farz
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- Thread starter
- #102
Got some presents today!
OOOOOOOHHHHHHHHH Shiny!!!
HeY Farz, are those shock hoops?
If so, what were the decision criteria for going with shock hoops...in other words, is it sort of a requirement given the suspension/components you are using for the lift?
- Thread starter
- #105
Because, shock hoops look bad ass!
Ok, in all seriousness, with the SR and moving the axle housing forward it seemed like I would run into an issue with the steering box getting in the way if I tried to do something like the the ford shock towers.
The shock hoops were purchased thinking that it would allow me to "straddle" the steering box on either side of need be, but still allow me to remove it later if I needed to.
I ended up going the shock hoop route on my SOA that is currently in progress. I agree it looks bad assed.
- Thread starter
- #107
I ended up going the shock hoop route on my SOA that is currently in progress. I agree it looks bad assed.
Oh yeah! Just like that. I'm having a bit of steering box envy there- mine is gross and leaky.
OK, I think I get it...so the hoop allows you to reposition to the top shock pin away from the stock position, since, with the shackle reversal and changing the axle housing position, using the stock pin would mean that the shock might interfere with the PS box...so the hoop gives you more options...
- Thread starter
- #109
Awwwwww yiiiissssssss
- Thread starter
- #111
Oh you're totally correct db, problem comes down to super flat springs. Bump stops will keep me from bottoming out the shocks. . It it makes you feel better, at full droop I only have a couple inches of travel left. So it's close both ways. (Edit: I take the above back- apparently I was thinking 10 inches of travel instead of 14.)
I may reroute the shock mount the the other side of the axle. I was trying to keep from having too much rake and keep the shocks perpendicular. If I do this I may go ahead and grind the hoops off and go with the ford towers. I'll have to force a bit of articulation and see what I'm working with.
For now it's drivable, I need a little driving time I think before I change it up. I missed driving this thing. By the way, I'm biggest thing on the road! Looking down into every Jeep I passed!
Took it out for a long cruise and got a little vibration between 50-55, but after that it smooths out and feels like a Cadillac!
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- Thread starter
- #112
Out and about. Definitely needs rear shocks. My daughter loves the bounciness, I myself am terrified!
FYI, One of my buddies who does mechanical failure analysis recommended I use 7018 on these frames...according to him they are high alloy.
I've rebuilt a couple power steering boxes it isn't hard, and somewhere I've got the notes on making the tool for screwing the input shaft collar back on - basically just drill 2 1/8" holes in a piece of 2" flat, shove some welding rod in, cut the U, and it's done. - I get the kit from RockAuto - GATES Part # 349480. Hardest part is getting those pesky ball bearings back in. It is REALLY nice not having the oil slick - 'course all that oil keeps your frame from rusting.
- Thread starter
- #115
I've rebuilt a couple power steering boxes it isn't hard, and somewhere I've got the notes on making the tool for screwing the input shaft collar back on - basically just drill 2 1/8" holes in a piece of 2" flat, shove some welding rod in, cut the U, and it's done. - I get the kit from RockAuto - GATES Part # 349480. Hardest part is getting those pesky ball bearings back in. It is REALLY nice not having the oil slick - 'course all that oil keeps your frame from rusting.
True on the rust. Frame was new underneath all of that sludge. Good info on the tool.. I'll have to circle back around when I rebuild it... (probably this winter sometime- barring a catastrophic failure before that.)
Speaking of the steering and I wish I had gotten some pictures or video of this but, I recently dodged certain doom with my PS pump. Yesterday, I was changing the oil and buttoning up some last minute items before our camp trip this weekend. Well one of those things I wanted to accomplish before leaving was to flush out all of the old ATF out of the steering and get some new stuff in there. You see, my steering has been whiny and and started groaning something terrible since this whole processed started.
So anyway, I started the engine to let it get warmed up a bit before I did the flush, all the while excited at a potentially quieter and better functioning steering system. Pop the hood and what do I find? a PS pulley in full wobble. Like, serious- I can't believe this thing hasn't exploded out of there death wobble. Cut the engine and low and behold the nut and washer assembly that would hold the pulley on the shaft was gone. One nut and washer later and all of my steering woes are now gone. YAY!
Hopefully it all holds together through the weekend. All work and no play has made me pretty cranky and I'm ready to get out and relax a bit.
That's a nice find. I converted over to the $34 Saginaw pump, since I had 2 OEM pumps go out in a row. I have templates to build the mounting bracket for the Saginaw pump, and all the part numbers (pulley, shiv, pump, hose) to use GM OEM parts to convert. Let me know if you decide to go that route, and I'll shoot you what you need. I also use full synthetic throughout - I know one of the engineers who developed synthetic for NASCAR, and he's convinced me and now I only run full synthetic.
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- Thread starter
- #117
Thanks Ricky, I certainly will.
Obviously I've been slacking because I just discovered this thread 
. Great build, will be following and cheering you more closely
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. Great build, will be following and cheering you more closely.
- Thread starter
- #119
Haha! It's alright mang.
Great progress! Keep the pics coming!