Hello does anyone have one for a 2008 GX?77082820333. Thanks
Nav to Non-Nav Conversion Walkthrough (6 Viewers)
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The part number is 88650-60773 not what I put up there sorry
binaryaudax
SILVER Star
If you retain the "Television ECU" you can get the signal from there without any adapters.
I made a post about it here: PX6 Android head unit - Wood trim Air Vent panel replacement/alternatives - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/px6-android-head-unit-wood-trim-air-vent-panel-replacement-alternatives.1215445/#post-13257987
Can you explain further about the linear polarization film inversion process? I like the look of the inverted climate control display.
binaryaudax
SILVER Star
You need to dismantle the climate control unit. There is a clear film glued to the front of the LCD. Peel that off. You can pick up some new polarized film on Amazon (with an adhesive). You then plug the unit back into the car and hold the new film over the LCD. Rotate the film until you get the orientation correct to invert the display -- then cut the film to size and adhere it to the LCD. Reassemble.
Fundamentally the same as this video:
Thanks!
Any advice on the Android alibaba unit vs a 2-DIN head unit? Android tablet screen looks so much better/nicer, but I'm worried about it being glitchy...
binaryaudax
SILVER Star
I had the Tesla-style 10" Android unit for a while and I hated it. I ended up ripping it out and doing the non-nav climate control conversion and went with a Pioneer double-DIN. Overall, it's a more expensive route, but I (and the wife) are much happier with it. More details here.
Thoughts on the T'eyes CC3 system (in-dash Android tablet to replace our crappy old nav screen) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/thoughts-on-the-teyes-cc3-system-in-dash-android-tablet-to-replace-our-crappy-old-nav-screen.1274503/
gonna leave this here, this is the route I'm saving for. You can order it from Teyes Australia instead of dealing with alibaba, plus they have upgraded cameras for front/rear/dashcam/sides. It's probably as plug and play as you can get. Other articles I've read recommend getting the max ram/GB version for snappiness/responsiveness.
gonna leave this here, this is the route I'm saving for. You can order it from Teyes Australia instead of dealing with alibaba, plus they have upgraded cameras for front/rear/dashcam/sides. It's probably as plug and play as you can get. Other articles I've read recommend getting the max ram/GB version for snappiness/responsiveness.
I ordered this and returned it. I don't get why the temperature control button has to be on the screen. I'm doing non-nav conversion with Joying 9" unit to keep climate controls and radio 100% independent.
I'm doing the same conversion. Did you find answers to your questions?
Lazy engineering. The OEM unit has a physical temp button, and for whatever reason they decided to swap that for a physical fan speed button. Like why not both? People just want all physical buttons and none of the touch screen BS that is currently rampant.
Maybe lawmakers will pass a law on vehicle touch screen standards given all the no cell phone use laws and we can move past this trend.
Wonder if the Joying unit is any better? I'm hoping to do non-nav with Joying, but can't decide if I should just go old school double-DIN. Some of the other oversized head units fit nicely I've seen, but they're $1,000+...
Why not just get a name brand head unit and the oem climate controls?
My Sony unit (AX-5500) + all the harnesses and a paint matched trim piece was a bit over $500. Then about $300 for climate controls. All in was under $1000 for the conversion, have car play and Android auto, have oem climate controls with buttons.
Yeah...it was a huge dealbreaker!
the double-DINs look pretty dated to me with the recessed bezel, the flush mount screens look so much more modern. The oversized name-brand units don’t fit flush, but are close - just expensive as sh!t.
Well, I’m pretty confused here.
I pulled my head unit today to clean up the wiring and change the cigarette port USB plug from a single to a double.
Everything seemed to go well. HVAC controls work. Head unit works.
However, I lost the green LED to the heated buttons and center diff lock. All the buttons still work. They light up orange when the seat heater is on.
Also, the temperature control panel doesn’t dim with the controls.
The bizarre thing is that I removed the taps for the illumination….and the HVAC still lights up. My understanding is this shouldn’t be possible.
Also, the green led in the ash try is dead, but I don’t know if that ever worked.
Any help is appreciated because I’m at a total loss.
I pulled my head unit today to clean up the wiring and change the cigarette port USB plug from a single to a double.
Everything seemed to go well. HVAC controls work. Head unit works.
However, I lost the green LED to the heated buttons and center diff lock. All the buttons still work. They light up orange when the seat heater is on.
Also, the temperature control panel doesn’t dim with the controls.
The bizarre thing is that I removed the taps for the illumination….and the HVAC still lights up. My understanding is this shouldn’t be possible.
Also, the green led in the ash try is dead, but I don’t know if that ever worked.
Any help is appreciated because I’m at a total loss.
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binaryaudax
SILVER Star
Did you unplug the dimmer control in this process? If so, make sure it's plugged back in.
The center LCD of the HVAC lights up regardless of the dimmer. Without the dimmer/illumination tap it won't dim when the parking/headlights are on, and the other buttons around it won't light up at all.
What you're describing sounds like the dimmer control isn't plugged in or working properly. You might want to check that the DOME or ECU-B (Body ECU) fuse isn't blown.
[this can be deleted]
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okay, it’s not a wiring issue. Turns out I had a bad ground when using the multimeter today. So I mistakenly thought a harness was bad.
Pretty sure the problem was my t-tap into the ashtray harness + bad bulbs.
Re-did the t-tap, and the lights + dimming work. Two of the buttons on the HVAC don’t have backlight, but I figure that means the bulb for those 2 is out.
One of the seat heater backlight works now, but the center diff lock, other seat heater switch, and DAC have no backlight. Again, likely bulbs since the buttons work and everything else is backlit + dimmable.
Need to replace:
- green incandescent switch bulb x 3
- bulb for ashtray x 1
- bulb for glovebox x 1
Pretty sure the problem was my t-tap into the ashtray harness + bad bulbs.
Re-did the t-tap, and the lights + dimming work. Two of the buttons on the HVAC don’t have backlight, but I figure that means the bulb for those 2 is out.
One of the seat heater backlight works now, but the center diff lock, other seat heater switch, and DAC have no backlight. Again, likely bulbs since the buttons work and everything else is backlit + dimmable.
Need to replace:
- green incandescent switch bulb x 3
- bulb for ashtray x 1
- bulb for glovebox x 1
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binaryaudax
SILVER Star
You can find T3 LEDs for the switches on Amazon in 10 packs for under $15.
I've used these -- the fitment is a tad tight but they work great. You will get "hotspots" using LEDs with a few switches though since the LEDs are more directionally focused than the incandescent bulbs.
Im gonna stick with the incandescent because the contrasting shades of green will drive me nuts. If there was an easy way to have all of the illumination swapped to LED, I’d do it in a heartbeat.
