I bought this skid plate thinking it would fit my 75 FJ40. I've had it at least 15 years thinking I might be able to modify it to work. I tried today and it just won't work. Can anybody identify it from this pic?
Mystery skidplate
- Thread starter hollowbase
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The sides look parallel , they should not , fj40 frame is tapered
Keep searching mud there is a thread (that was posted or updated in the last 6 months or so) where the three or more different age skidplates are pictured and described; 3sp 4 sp early late? They are pretty different, I ran into this on somebody's cruiser once. I think the parallel comment above is an optical allusion, (parralax? In photography)
Wondering if the skid plate in the middle and the one on the left are 4speed or 3speed? Also if it’s a 4speed what’s the chances it fitting on my Nov 73 build FJ40 or would I have to modify it?
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- #6
The sides aren't parallel, none of holes line up with any drain plugs. The one I have is different from all three in the Pic. Maybe it's off a 55 or 60?
a 55 is wider than the 40... a 60 series is way different from what I remember
yours matches the 3 speed posted in the thread I posted above.... however you need to click on it .... then scroll down and see the 3 speed that it matches
yours matches the 3 speed posted in the thread I posted above.... however you need to click on it .... then scroll down and see the 3 speed that it matches
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- #8
a 55 is wider than the 40... a 60 series is way different from what I remember
yours matches the 3 speed posted in the thread I posted above.... however you need to click on it .... then scroll down and see the 3 speed that it matches
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- #9
You're right. I really hate the idea of a good Cruiser part going to the scrap yard, but this may go with the springs I just took off.
Post it for free … both springs and skid plate … for pickup only… better to help a brother
That skid plate is in GREAT shape … could even get $$$ but would need to ship
That skid plate is in GREAT shape … could even get $$$ but would need to ship
@hollowbase please do not put those perfectly good skid plates in the scrap yard. Please.
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Have you tried using the second and third sets of holes. Putting the front hole in the second hole on the frame. Third roll would not have a hole. I posted in the linked thread that there are four sets of threaded holes 9/72 guessing to at least 7/80. On the three speed the front hole is used. Four speed the last hole is used. If the three skid plate will line up better starting with the second hole not sure I've never tried it. The length of the three and four skid plate are not that much different. Four speed is more exposed at the front than the four speed.
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- #13
Would someone really have a use for those worn out old springs? I cannabalized 2 of the spring packs and used the shortest leaves as leveling blocks, I now have a level Cruiser. I will post the skid plate in the classifieds. The skid plate can be bolted to my frame, but the holes to get to the drain plugs are not in the correct position and making it work is more than I want to do.
This will take you an afternoon to do once you got all your tools ready.
Don't toss it. It's a 3 speed skid plate from what I can tell. Yes, it will fit on your 4 speed transmission with some modifications. Requires some cutting with an angle grinder, some welding of 3mm steel to one side, and hammering down some spots with a regular sized hammer.
Ultimately, you can buy a 4 speed skid plate and it will bolt on with zero issue. But, if you want a slightly thicker skid plate for extra strength, the 3 speed skid plate is the way to go.
The 3 speed skid plate "mod" has been confirmed on my father's 1978 Fj40, which naturally can't fit a 3 speed skid plate. Also on my 1971 fj40 with 4 speed transmission conversion (which naturally can't fit the 3 speed skid plate because of the larger transmission). Some confusion, I know
Left is an untouched 3 speed skid plate. Right side is a modified 3 speed skid plate to fit with a 4 speed transmission for an Fj40. My dad did this "mod" back in the mid 1990s with no template or help from the internet. Luckily, I was able to copy his side-by-side and alter a spare 3 speed skid plate to fit my 1971 4 speed Fj40.
Here, the modified skid plate is sitting on top. Notice the "U" shape groove? The bottom one is an untouched skid plate. You need to cut the same "U" shape groove. This will allow the skid plate to clear the bottom part of the larger size 4 speed transmission. Otherwise, it will hit and you can't bolt it up.
This one side needs to be flattened-down. Use a blow torch to heat up and hammer away. I think you may need to cut a notch on it too so it can properly fold down.
Don't toss it. It's a 3 speed skid plate from what I can tell. Yes, it will fit on your 4 speed transmission with some modifications. Requires some cutting with an angle grinder, some welding of 3mm steel to one side, and hammering down some spots with a regular sized hammer.
Ultimately, you can buy a 4 speed skid plate and it will bolt on with zero issue. But, if you want a slightly thicker skid plate for extra strength, the 3 speed skid plate is the way to go.
The 3 speed skid plate "mod" has been confirmed on my father's 1978 Fj40, which naturally can't fit a 3 speed skid plate. Also on my 1971 fj40 with 4 speed transmission conversion (which naturally can't fit the 3 speed skid plate because of the larger transmission). Some confusion, I know
Left is an untouched 3 speed skid plate. Right side is a modified 3 speed skid plate to fit with a 4 speed transmission for an Fj40. My dad did this "mod" back in the mid 1990s with no template or help from the internet. Luckily, I was able to copy his side-by-side and alter a spare 3 speed skid plate to fit my 1971 4 speed Fj40.
Here, the modified skid plate is sitting on top. Notice the "U" shape groove? The bottom one is an untouched skid plate. You need to cut the same "U" shape groove. This will allow the skid plate to clear the bottom part of the larger size 4 speed transmission. Otherwise, it will hit and you can't bolt it up.
This one side needs to be flattened-down. Use a blow torch to heat up and hammer away. I think you may need to cut a notch on it too so it can properly fold down.
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Next, you need to chop this tail off, Flush. Also, cut some grooves deeper into the skid plate where the tail once was. From this picture, the top marker line is where I would cut the tail flush with the rest of the skid plate. You can faintly see I cut further down into the metal. The second line is where you will rebend that "tail" (use blow torch and hammer) This "tail" isn't needed, but it gives the oem appearance and may protect your your transmission/t-case from a tiny pebble :]
When you line it up to your frame after doing this stuff, It will fall short of the holes. On a late 1973+ Fj40, the holes will be in-line with the 3 speed skid plate, more or less. On the earlier fj40s, one will need to drill one extra hole on the rear parts or the frame, otherwise you would only be able to bolt up the front and middle bolts. More confusion, but once you're down there, you'll see.
Okay, so the skid plate falls short, on both a later style Fj40 as well as the early style. You need to weld in a piece of 3mm steel the length of the skid plate and match it to the the frame. Push the skid plate and line it up to the passenger side frame. Now look over to the driver side. Notice that there's about 0.5in to 0.75in of a gap from the edge of the skid plate to the edge of the frame (pictured above in relation to the exhaust pipe) . That is the size of 3mm steel which you need to weld onto the skid plate.
Once the steel is welded in place, you will need to widen the existing holes on the skid plate to finally clear the rivets on the frame as well as to allow the bolts to go in and tighten down. Again, that part sounds confusing, but once you're down there and see, you will understand what needs to be adjusted to make it fit.
if you pay close attention to this last picture, one will see I welded more metal on diffrent spots. The skid plate that I used was "pitted" with rust in certain spots and the metal was thin/weak along the edges. So, I cut off more metal and welded in a bigger piece. And lastly, you need to hammer down the skid plate around the area where the drain plug of the t-case is. Otherwise, it will hit and won't let you bolt the skidplate correctly.... You can kinda see that it's "buldged" on the top right holes, thsts where it was hammered so it can clear the t-case. And that is it. Ask any questions you may have.
When you line it up to your frame after doing this stuff, It will fall short of the holes. On a late 1973+ Fj40, the holes will be in-line with the 3 speed skid plate, more or less. On the earlier fj40s, one will need to drill one extra hole on the rear parts or the frame, otherwise you would only be able to bolt up the front and middle bolts. More confusion, but once you're down there, you'll see.
Okay, so the skid plate falls short, on both a later style Fj40 as well as the early style. You need to weld in a piece of 3mm steel the length of the skid plate and match it to the the frame. Push the skid plate and line it up to the passenger side frame. Now look over to the driver side. Notice that there's about 0.5in to 0.75in of a gap from the edge of the skid plate to the edge of the frame (pictured above in relation to the exhaust pipe) . That is the size of 3mm steel which you need to weld onto the skid plate.
Once the steel is welded in place, you will need to widen the existing holes on the skid plate to finally clear the rivets on the frame as well as to allow the bolts to go in and tighten down. Again, that part sounds confusing, but once you're down there and see, you will understand what needs to be adjusted to make it fit.
if you pay close attention to this last picture, one will see I welded more metal on diffrent spots. The skid plate that I used was "pitted" with rust in certain spots and the metal was thin/weak along the edges. So, I cut off more metal and welded in a bigger piece. And lastly, you need to hammer down the skid plate around the area where the drain plug of the t-case is. Otherwise, it will hit and won't let you bolt the skidplate correctly.... You can kinda see that it's "buldged" on the top right holes, thsts where it was hammered so it can clear the t-case. And that is it. Ask any questions you may have.
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- #16
I agree with @DesertFJ40 that if you want better protection, you should try and modify what you have. 4speed skidplates are so thin that I consider them for ‘show’ like a factory rollbar. The 3speed plate is much beefier.