He has a custom frame so it may not flex as much as the stock 40 frame which flexes a ton. The aluminum might flex better with the frame too. Thats a dang good rattle can job man!
My 1976 FJ40 "Kit Car"
- Thread starter FJSeattle
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #322
Btw, it was $3500 to do the linex.
Seats are in
Had to grind out all the linex on my gauge cavity and in other places where it was laid on too thick. That's the downside. Some is visible to the eye, but most is hidden.
Pics of my lokar pedal.
Seats are in
Had to grind out all the linex on my gauge cavity and in other places where it was laid on too thick. That's the downside. Some is visible to the eye, but most is hidden.
Pics of my lokar pedal.
TCSTARK
Master Debater & Cunning Linguist
Which connector kit did you buy?
- Thread starter
- #325
x2 You can see the alignment on the hood in this pic. You want it to be able to "float" a bit.
I used the same paint... Looks good, but the down side is that it fades fairly quickly... If you touch it up in a year, the paint is a different color. But for $50, you can lay down another coat on the whole truck, so it's not the end of the world.
- Thread starter
- #328
Electrical badges by well_armed, on Flickr
Electrical badges by well_armed, on Flickr
Electrical badges by well_armed, on Flickr
Lights Badges by well_armed, on Flickr
Electrical badges by well_armed, on FlickrAll JW Speaker LED signals and side markers...
Lights Badges by well_armed, on Flickr
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Give us a quick overview of your garage. Size? Ceiling height? Do you like your lift? Doors? What kind of power and air do you have in it?
Looks nice.
...via IH8MUD app
Looks nice.
...via IH8MUD app
chappohj47
Chappo Built
Your nealy done mate that's awesome
- Thread starter
- #332
JW Speaker LEDs, not quite big enough so I made backing plates and sandwiched them.
Electrical by well_armed, on Flickr
Electrical by well_armed, on Flickr
Starting to organize the wires.
Electrical by well_armed, on Flickr
Electrical by well_armed, on Flickr
Electrical by well_armed, on Flickr
Electrical by well_armed, on Flickr
Electrical badges by well_armed, on Flickr
Electrical by well_armed, on FlickrElectrical by well_armed, on FlickrStarting to organize the wires.
Electrical by well_armed, on FlickrElectrical by well_armed, on FlickrElectrical by well_armed, on FlickrElectrical by well_armed, on FlickrElectrical badges by well_armed, on Flickr
I like the color of the truck with the black of the wheels and such. Looks clean. I have to say I am not a fan of the led turn signals or marker lights. I would use the factory lamp housings and put led's in them. Those on their just don't match the truck.
where did you purchase your jc speaker LEDs? i looked at their online store but they don't list anything, i see them in their catalog though.
Thanks
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #335
Its a basic garage, the lift is a Mohawk 7000 lb Asymettric dual post (no cross bar) -- it has the shortest tower height in the industry -- Made for short ceiling garages. I have a 12ft garage ceiling with the door down, and around 10.5 with it up. I bought a plastic air hose kit off amazon, best $120 and two hours installing spent.
Air compressor:
http://www.tptools.com/Champion-5HP-2-Stage-80-Gal-Air-Compressor,6248.html?b=d*8065
Call up Fleet Supply, they can help you.
LED Side and Parking Lights:
0205321 (Red)
0205341 (Orange)
Turn Signals:
0342421 Rear (these were returned for Aussie LEDs, the JW Speakers were too big)
0343121 Front; Clear
Wires and wires
Untitled by well_armed, on FlickrClutch cover fabricated
Untitled by well_armed, on FlickrWeatherstripping installed on the FR doors. Those are being a bitch to line up with all the LineX and aftermarket parts affecting the alignment.
Untitled by well_armed, on FlickrElectric Pulse Generator for the speedometer
Untitled by well_armed, on Flickr
- Thread starter
- #336
Electrical is a real pain in the butt.
Racepak digital gauge, painless wiring harness, ididit column, dual battery, all LED's at the corners. But I am quickly amassing questions I do not know the answers to.
Some of the stuff that I need help with is the advanced switch, relay, breaker execution. For example, I am doing all rocker switches for the car and need to convert the stock stuff over to rocker.
Q: What type of rocker switch would I need to accomplish the stock windshield motor? Would this one work?
http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=VRD2AH0B-A9C6U-200
Q) What does a Maxi Fuse accomplish? Painless says you utilize this to protect the fuse block, does it cut power to the car when the fuse is taken out? Can I use it as a security feature?
Q) Can someone explain to me why they change the schematic for an alternator above 65 amps? Page 13 (figure 7-2B) of the manual has a diagram and reason. I am assuming that because the alternator B+ line is in contact with the battery via starter solenoid, that is how the starter battery is getting its charge trickle? Normally wire 960 goes straight to the battery.
Q) I am assuming I tap a 12V ignition activated line for the lift pump, but wondering if I should fuse it...and what are the rules for fuse sizes? I have a circuit tester/computer bobber I ordered from McMaster Carr.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...-Universal-Electric/_/R-BK_6102004_0388667825
Q) Where should I place circuit breakers? What kind should I get (difference between thermal and magnetic)? I am using a Blue Sea Systems Automatic Charging relay for the dual battery setup, their stuff seems legit.
Q) Fan. Apparently I can connect my Racepak Dash straight to the fan, or utilize a standard 85 block automotive relay. What do I gain with the relay? What size fuse on this line? My gauge has an internal temp probe input, so I can run the painless wire right into the dash and program its on/off parameters. Pretty slick
Here is the manual if you are feeling bored:
http://www.racepak.com/downloads/pdf/udxsrmanual.pdf
Q) How do I get a tachometer reading for my Diesel? The Racepak gauge utilizes a 5-20 volt square wave signal. Anyway I can do this from the alternator? (using an Isuzu NPR 70 Amp).
That is it for now!
Racepak digital gauge, painless wiring harness, ididit column, dual battery, all LED's at the corners. But I am quickly amassing questions I do not know the answers to.
Some of the stuff that I need help with is the advanced switch, relay, breaker execution. For example, I am doing all rocker switches for the car and need to convert the stock stuff over to rocker.
Q: What type of rocker switch would I need to accomplish the stock windshield motor? Would this one work?
http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=VRD2AH0B-A9C6U-200
Q) What does a Maxi Fuse accomplish? Painless says you utilize this to protect the fuse block, does it cut power to the car when the fuse is taken out? Can I use it as a security feature?
Q) Can someone explain to me why they change the schematic for an alternator above 65 amps? Page 13 (figure 7-2B) of the manual has a diagram and reason. I am assuming that because the alternator B+ line is in contact with the battery via starter solenoid, that is how the starter battery is getting its charge trickle? Normally wire 960 goes straight to the battery.
Q) I am assuming I tap a 12V ignition activated line for the lift pump, but wondering if I should fuse it...and what are the rules for fuse sizes? I have a circuit tester/computer bobber I ordered from McMaster Carr.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...-Universal-Electric/_/R-BK_6102004_0388667825
Q) Where should I place circuit breakers? What kind should I get (difference between thermal and magnetic)? I am using a Blue Sea Systems Automatic Charging relay for the dual battery setup, their stuff seems legit.
Q) Fan. Apparently I can connect my Racepak Dash straight to the fan, or utilize a standard 85 block automotive relay. What do I gain with the relay? What size fuse on this line? My gauge has an internal temp probe input, so I can run the painless wire right into the dash and program its on/off parameters. Pretty slick
Here is the manual if you are feeling bored:
http://www.racepak.com/downloads/pdf/udxsrmanual.pdf
Q) How do I get a tachometer reading for my Diesel? The Racepak gauge utilizes a 5-20 volt square wave signal. Anyway I can do this from the alternator? (using an Isuzu NPR 70 Amp).
That is it for now!
- Thread starter
- #337
I did a "Quick" video tour of the rig, so get out the popcorn (8 minutes):
After some thinking (and visiting Tor Off Road), I am going to cannibalize the Painless harness and move over to a full Bussman Fuse/Relay Panel (& relocate it into the glove box)
Going to take my time and do this right. I am bringing in a friend who does Marine wiring.
After some thinking (and visiting Tor Off Road), I am going to cannibalize the Painless harness and move over to a full Bussman Fuse/Relay Panel (& relocate it into the glove box)
Going to take my time and do this right. I am bringing in a friend who does Marine wiring.
Last edited:
Why not just sell the Painless harness and get in touch with NW Autowire to build exactly what you want? It would be less time, less expensive, and they are in your area. http://www.nwautowire.com/servlet/StoreFront
- Thread starter
- #340
Untitled by well_armed, on Flickr
