Builds Mountain Goat '18LX build thread

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I believe it's the compressor itself under use, when it experiences its peak reliability testing temps. Being under hood it's going to be more saturated with heat and start its work at a more elevated temperature, potentially causing even higher temps in use. I mounted my own compressor outside the engine bay for these reasons.

I would be sure to keep the hood open when using the compressor to help with cooling airflow. Fortunately, it is rated at 100% continuous duty cycle - provided it has adequate airflow.
100% duty cycle and has own cooling fans and overload pRotection I don’t worry about it.

lots installedand relatively expensive leads to lots of complaints when they break so likely over reported, but I bet the real failure rate is probably industry standard.
 
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Not sure if I ever posted these, but the third row seat covers are great. Easy to install/remove, protects the seat, and has large storage pockets! The license plate gives you an idea of size.
View attachment 1951507

There is a lot of talk about the small cup holders. This insert from amazon is awesome. It accommodates the large 40oz bottles as well as odd shaped coffee cups and leaves the other cup holder fully functional.
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Where did you get the seat covers?
 
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Where did you get the seat covers?
Took me a minute to figure it out. Looks like I ordered the item in post number 3 here:


Looks like there are other options available also. I’m still very happy with mine.
 
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I’ve got a PM out to the gentleman that did it on his LX, but does anyone have an idea of what would be required to make 37s fit on my LX??
 
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Essentially a drop bracket front and rear was what was done on the LX (yes it’s far more involved but that’s the one sentence version). Otherwise to truly fit 37s (full bump, lock to lock) will be something along the lines of:

- chop front and rear bumpers, remove fender liners (likely for good), tub footwell, possibly relocate body mount, remove portion of internal wheel well (full bump), relocate washer pump, relocate AIR system, relocate battery (maybe).

The rear is both harder and easier. Find out at what point a 37 touches the wheel well, that’s your full bump, and work down from there. So new bump stop mounts (you could go hydraulic at that point), and then new shock lower mounts, coil mounts, Panhard mount, new UCA/LCA mounting to keep stock geometry. Limiting factor will be the stroke of the shock as that won’t change.

Drop bracket lift up front eliminates some of those issues because it is merely changing the location of the suspension travel. EDIT: and hats off to the guy who made the tundra stuff fit, it’s absolutely not bolt on, as you have to still create the brackets for the shocks/coils/sway bar, etc. it’s amazing what he did, and does eliminate some issues.

Obviously wheel back spacing etc will have an impact. A tundra or other arm swap might solve some issues like your lock to lock tire placement and where it hits the fenders as you’re moving the tire out in its arc up.

Or, do what most tundra guys do and slap em on and hit those speed bumps extra slow. I kid.
 
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Took me a minute to figure it out. Looks like I ordered the item in post number 3 here:


Looks like there are other options available also. I’m still very happy with mine.
Thanks, I just ordered a set!
 
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Had some fun with the Slee rear bumper. I went up to Timberline Lodge and when we came out, the pull/release pins that you pull vertically to release both swing outs were completely frozen. I poured some water on them and with some thick gloves was able to pull them loose after a couple of minutes. It was about 20 and the wind was at about 20mph, so it seemed like I was working on it forever!
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View attachment 2218092


Had some fun with the Slee rear bumper. I went up to Timberline Lodge and when we came out, the pull/release pins that you pull vertically to release both swing outs were completely frozen. I poured some water on them and with some thick gloves was able to pull them loose after a couple of minutes. It was about 20 and the wind was at about 20mph, so it seemed like I was working on it forever! View attachment 2218096
Keep a can of deicer spray in the interior.
 
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I had a feeling it wouldn't work. The only system I see that currently bolts to the 2016+ factory side rails is from Frontrunner and even then the stock photos don't actually show it installed on an actual 2016+ LX 570.


I contacted Rhino about their rack as well and they haven't touched the newer LX either. I haven't messed around with ours much so I am not even sure what all is involved in removing the side rails. They sort of appear to be molded in to the roof line but I am hoping that they are in fact removable.
In case someone picks up on this thread. I installed a Prinsu on a 17 Lx this weekend. All the holes match up perfect. Paid an upholstery place 285 to lower and put up the headliner. We used his parking lot to install the rack. LX holes aren’t threaded so we had to add some nylock nuts and washers. Easy except for the front 2 each side. Took a finger contortionist. In hindsight I should have just gone home to grab rivnut tool for those 4. Thank god my 20 year old is more patient than I.

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In case someone picks up on this thread. I installed a Prinsu on a 17 Lx this weekend. All the holes match up perfect. Paid an upholstery place 285 to lower and put up the headliner. We used his parking lot to install the rack. LX holes aren’t threaded so we had to add some nylock nuts and washers. Easy except for the front 2 each side. Took a finger contortionist. In hindsight I should have just gone home to grab rivnut tool for those 4. Thank god my 20 year old is more patient than I.

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View attachment 2324604
Definitely worth the hassle!
 
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In case someone picks up on this thread. I installed a Prinsu on a 17 Lx this weekend. All the holes match up perfect. Paid an upholstery place 285 to lower and put up the headliner. We used his parking lot to install the rack. LX holes aren’t threaded so we had to add some nylock nuts and washers. Easy except for the front 2 each side. Took a finger contortionist. In hindsight I should have just gone home to grab rivnut tool for those 4. Thank god my 20 year old is more patient than I.

View attachment 2324603

View attachment 2324604
Looks great! I just ordered one for my '16 LX. Going to give it a go ourselves too. Was hoping I wouldn't have to mess with the headliner. Oh well. Any advice on dropping the headliner from the upholstery people? Tips/tricks? Any additional install pics?
 
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Looks great! I just ordered one for my '16 LX. Going to give it a go ourselves too. Was hoping I wouldn't have to mess with the headliner. Oh well. Any advice on dropping the headliner from the upholstery people? Tips/tricks? Any additional install pics?
There is some nasty black goo at the back headliner near the hatch. Prepare to have extra gloves standing by.
 

bryson

I do stuff.
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If I understand @livebetter36 (and the logic in my head) correctly, you shouldn't have to drop the headliner if you use nutserts...? Granted, nuts and washers would be a hell of a lot stronger than nutserts, albeit much less install/service friendly.

I think you should also be able to use OEM nut plates if they're available. Those would probably be the best permanent solution, but the downside is that you'd still have to drop the headliner for initial install.
 
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Looks great! I just ordered one for my '16 LX. Going to give it a go ourselves too. Was hoping I wouldn't have to mess with the headliner. Oh well. Any advice on dropping the headliner from the upholstery people? Tips/tricks? Any additional install pics?
Not really. These two young men knew what they were doing it just takes time to be careful. Took them an hour plus to take it down and 45ish to put it back up. They also pulled down some ac ducting too but that was a lot more straightforward than you might think. I fully intended to take pics. To be honest I was so stressed through the whole process that I never thought to do it. I really didnt know it was going to work until everything but those last 4 nuts were started. Only advice is don't stress. It eventually works.
 
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If I understand @livebetter36 (and the logic in my head) correctly, you shouldn't have to drop the headliner if you use nutserts...? Granted, nuts and washers would be a hell of a lot stronger than nutserts, albeit much less install/service friendly.

I think you should also be able to use OEM nut plates if they're available. Those would probably be the best permanent solution, but the downside is that you'd still have to drop the headliner for initial install.
You have to drop the headliner to access the OEM nut plates to remove the flush rails. The factory bars don't even use all the holes (there are plastic clips on 4 or 6 of them and the t bolts coming down from the rails are tiny, maybe 1/4" so the nut plates arent useable. I was only suggesting nutserts for the front 2 bolts on each side. At a minimum the back 1 on the front each side. Getting the initial off was one thing but getting a larger nylock with a damn washer is a whole nother. The nut area is tucked behint what i think is the mechanism for the moon roof. To be clear there is no (non-destructive) way to remove the factory rails without lowering the headliner.
 

LCtoLX

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Not really. These two young men knew what they were doing it just takes time to be careful. Took them an hour plus to take it down and 45ish to put it back up. They also pulled down some ac ducting too but that was a lot more straightforward than you might think. I fully intended to take pics. To be honest I was so stressed through the whole process that I never thought to do it. I really didnt know it was going to work until everything but those last 4 nuts were started. Only advice is don't stress. It eventually works.
Did they have to “start from the bottom” and work their way up? Meaning, from the front door scuff plate and up the side pillar. Also from the cargo carpet and up the side (removing the inner plastic quarter panel, shoulder harnesses, etc.). I was hoping that someone would chime in with some detail and say that there was a “shortcut”.

I have an LC rack on its way to me and am going to attempt installing it myself.
 
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Did they have to “start from the bottom” and work their way up? Meaning, from the front door scuff plate and up the side pillar. Also from the cargo carpet and up the side (removing the inner plastic quarter panel, shoulder harnesses, etc.). I was hoping that someone would chime in with some detail and say that there was a “shortcut”.

I have an LC rack on its way to me and am going to attempt installing it myself.
They went front to back removing parts like visors grab handles etc. then top down (from front to back) and really just poked and prodded until it was done. Note that we never actually pulled it out. Just kind of hung it in place. Definitely no nice short cut.
 

LCtoLX

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They went front to back removing parts like visors grab handles etc. then top down (from front to back) and really just poked and prodded until it was done. Note that we never actually pulled it out. Just kind of hung it in place. Definitely no nice short cut.
Got it. Thanks. If all I have to do is remove the upper half or third of the interior paneling, that would be better than starting at the bottom and removing almost all of the interior (except the dashboard).
 
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