Builds Mountain Goat '18LX build thread

tbisaacs

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looking good! Are you worried about flex near the sliders? Seems a bit close?
The rockers are pretty soft too once you cut em. I wouldn't be concern. Also I've jacked up my 570 with a high lift under the slee sliders and they don't budge at all.
 

sleeoffroad

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I would suggest a larger cap between the plastic and the slider. With body / frame flex, it could pop the plastic if it puts a lot of pressure on it.
 

TeCKis300

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I think he is running 1.0 spacers... Im wondering if that .25 is going to make a difference. I am leaning towards no. If I have my numbers right, I was at about +1.5 with the 25 offset, and I am sad to lose some of that..
Yup, I'm on the same 305/55r20 tire with stock 20" +60 wheels and 1" spacers. Effective offset is +34mm.

I believe your 2016+ model year 20" wheels have a slightly different offset? +54mm IIRC? Pairing that with .75" spacers will put it exactly as my wheel/tire setup, which fits dandy.

As you have the newer suspension upright/spindle, your setup should be even more optimal in that +34mm should be the perfect offset for scrub radius.
 
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Yup, I'm on the same 305/55r20 tire with stock 20" +60 wheels and 1" spacers. Effective offset is +34mm.

I believe your 2016+ model year 20" wheels have a slightly different offset? +54mm IIRC? Pairing that with .75" spacers will put it exactly as my wheel/tire setup, which fits dandy.

As you have the newer suspension upright/spindle, your setup should be even more optimal in that +34mm should be the perfect offset for scrub radius.
Im actually going to be using a 2013- 2015 wheel, which from everything I can tell is a +45 wheel..I thought it was more. So that means with a .75 spacers I'll actually be right back to where I am at about +25..?
 
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Im actually going to be using a 2013- 2015 wheel, which from everything I can tell is a +45 wheel..I thought it was more. So that means with a .75 spacers I'll actually be right back to where I am at about +25..?
I think they are 60mm. Pretty much all the alloys 18” and 20” are 60mm. Some of the very recent years have 54mm 20s or 21s. The 17” tundra rock warriors are 50mm. Even the Steelies are all 60mm both intl 17” and US 18”

flip over the wheel theoffset is stamped on the inside of the rim
 

TeCKis300

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Yup, it's very likely a +60 wheel as I have. With a 3/4" spacer puts you at a still just about perfect 40mm.

Should fit great.
 
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Yup, it's very likely a +60 wheel as I have. With a 3/4" spacer puts you at a still just about perfect 40mm.

Should fit great.
I think they are 60mm. Pretty much all the alloys 18” and 20” are 60mm. Some of the very recent years have 54mm 20s or 21s. The 17” tundra rock warriors are 50mm. Even the Steelies are all 60mm both intl 17” and US 18”

flip over the wheel theoffset is stamped on the inside of the rim
I’ll have to dig out what I have.
Where are you guys getting your offset numbers? Pretty much every website I check shows a 45 offset.

 
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I’ll have to dig out what I have.
Where are you guys getting your offset numbers? Pretty much every website I check shows a 45 offset.

I'm looking at 2009 wheels. I got the offset by pulling the data from the wheel directly. 20 x 8 1/2 J 60. There is a lot of misinformation on the wheel offsets . . .
 

bryson

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I’ll have to dig out what I have.
Where are you guys getting your offset numbers? Pretty much every website I check shows a 45 offset.

That website also says the bolt pattern is 5 on 140mm... which we all know it is not.

I am finding conflicting info regarding offset for 2014 wheels as well. Best bet is to check your actual wheel - only way to be 100% sure.
 
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Thinking I have a failure with my ARB dual compressor. It was running really slow, and I noticed one side was ambient temp, and the other side was almost too hot to touch. Seems like this is a rare, but occasional failure?
 

TeCKis300

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Take this with a grain of salt but I've come across enough accounts of failure that it wasn't my first choice when I choose a compressor. It is wildly popular though. Performance rather than steadfast reliability seems to be the design goal as it is known to run very hot.

Does seem like you may have a failure on one pump. At least it's got a failover with the other pump still functioning.
 

tincan45

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Take this with a grain of salt but I've come across enough accounts of failure that it wasn't my first choice when I choose a compressor. It is wildly popular though. Performance rather than steadfast reliability seems to be the design goal as it is known to run very hot.

Does seem like you may have a failure on one pump. At least it's got a failover with the other pump still functioning.
This has always been my reservation with the ARB dual. Heat kills them quickly...and I don't think it's a rare event.
 
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This has always been my reservation with the ARB dual. Heat kills them quickly...and I don't think it's a rare event.
Take this with a grain of salt but I've come across enough accounts of failure that it wasn't my first choice when I choose a compressor. ...
Any speculation on which heat, ie from the motor when mounted under the hood, or from the compressor itself, or..?

Any idea what is failing? Something that can be stocked for a field repair?
 
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Thinking I have a failure with my ARB dual compressor. It was running really slow, and I noticed one side was ambient temp, and the other side was almost too hot to touch. Seems like this is a rare, but occasional failure?
On my install each compressor has its own fuse, so that is the first thing if check.
 
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On my install each compressor has its own fuse, so that is the first thing if check.
Is that standard or your mod? As with many things, this is an area where I have had to decide between spending time or money. I could have installed this myself as any idiot can learn just about anything on youtube, but I just cannot/couldn't justify the time. I am sure I could truobleshoot it as well, but... But then as always happens, when you have the ability to figure things out, you end up coming back, figuring it out, and in the long run learning how to do what you paid someone else to do anyway.. It reminds me of a saying an old boss had many moons ago as it related to construction when I was a apprentice/laborer/professional board-stretcher, he'd joke,"there's never time to do it right the first time, but there's always time to do it again." The downside of paying someone else to do work is you often can't do somewhat simple fixes yourself when the time arises...
 

RobW0

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Is that standard or your mod? As with many things, this is an area where I have had to decide between spending time or money. I could have installed this myself as any idiot can learn just about anything on youtube, but I just cannot/couldn't justify the time. I am sure I could truobleshoot it as well, but... But then as always happens, when you have the ability to figure things out, you end up coming back, figuring it out, and in the long run learning how to do what you paid someone else to do anyway.. It reminds me of a saying an old boss had many moons ago as it related to construction when I was a apprentice/laborer/professional board-stretcher, he'd joke,"there's never time to do it right the first time, but there's always time to do it again." The downside of paying someone else to do work is you often can't do somewhat simple fixes yourself when the time arises...
Mine came with a fused power connection for each pump as well.
 
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Dumb question - the really hot pump is the one running (at max cap)? Yes I know I could find a voltage meter that I probably bought at some time for another project and re-learn how to use it again...
 

TeCKis300

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Any speculation on which heat, ie from the motor when mounted under the hood, or from the compressor itself, or..?

Any idea what is failing? Something that can be stocked for a field repair?
I believe it's the compressor itself under use, when it experiences its peak reliability testing temps. Being under hood it's going to be more saturated with heat and start its work at a more elevated temperature, potentially causing even higher temps in use. I mounted my own compressor outside the engine bay for these reasons.

I would be sure to keep the hood open when using the compressor to help with cooling airflow. Fortunately, it is rated at 100% continuous duty cycle - provided it has adequate airflow.
 
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