Builds Mountain Goat '18LX build thread

[eel32]

They went front to back removing parts like visors grab handles etc. then top down (from front to back) and really just poked and prodded until it was done. Note that we never actually pulled it out. Just kind of hung it in place. Definitely no nice short cut.

Good info. Thanks!

 

[livebetter36]

Got it. Thanks. If all I have to do is remove the upper half or third of the interior paneling, that would be better than starting at the bottom and removing almost all of the interior (except the dashboard).

You are thinking right

 

[eel32]

You have to drop the headliner to access the OEM nut plates to remove the flush rails. The factory bars don't even use all the holes (there are plastic clips on 4 or 6 of them and the t bolts coming down from the rails are tiny, maybe 1/4" so the nut plates arent useable. I was only suggesting nutserts for the front 2 bolts on each side. At a minimum the back 1 on the front each side. Getting the initial off was one thing but getting a larger nylock with a damn washer is a whole nother. The nut area is tucked behint what i think is the mechanism for the moon roof. To be clear there is no (non-destructive) way to remove the factory rails without lowering the headliner.

Do you remember what size nylock nuts and washers you purchased for the job? Also, what size nutserts? We're going to try the install this Saturday and I figured I should try and get all the odds and ends this week while I have time.

 

[livebetter36]

Do you remember what size nylock nuts and washers you purchased for the job? Also, what size nutserts? We're going to try the install this Saturday and I figured I should try and get all the odds and ends this week while I have time.

I used the bolts that came with the rack. I don’t recall the nut spec but I took the bolt to ace to get right size. Get a couple of different size washers but nothing oversize. I recall there were two bolts that needed smaller than standard washers. I didn’t use nutserts, just wish I had. They will save you at least an hour. The hole is big enough that I bet you can use nutserts that fit the bolts that came with the rack. Good luck!

 

[Omoldes]

If your able to take some pictures while you take off the headliner can you please post them? I got my prinsu rack on Tuesday and gonna try to install it this weekend as well. I didn’t feel my Thule bars were sufficient.

 

[LCtoLX]

Yes, pics of the process would be much appreciated, eel32.

 

[eel32]

If your able to take some pictures while you take off the headliner can you please post them? I got my prinsu rack on Tuesday and gonna try to install it this weekend as well. I didn’t feel my Thule bars were sufficient.

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Will do.
On a side note, how do you like your 23Zero RTT? I've been doing some research and that's one of my favorites.

 

[Omoldes]

I really like the tent. With the annex my family of five sleeps comfortably with my two older daughters sleeping in the bottom in a cot bunk and my wife and 2 year old up top. I bought it used on this forum and the cover had some small rips and 23 zero sent me a replacement cover at no cost no questions Asked.

 

[eel32]

In case someone picks up on this thread. I installed a Prinsu on a 17 Lx this weekend. All the holes match up perfect. Paid an upholstery place 285 to lower and put up the headliner. We used his parking lot to install the rack. LX holes aren’t threaded so we had to add some nylock nuts and washers. Easy except for the front 2 each side. Took a finger contortionist. In hindsight I should have just gone home to grab rivnut tool for those 4. Thank god my 20 year old is more patient than I.

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We managed to get my Prinsu rack installed last weekend, but I'm noticing some serious vibration coming from the rack. Enough to where I can notice it visually in my back window. Have you had any issues with vibration?

 

[Tommy Dwyer]

We managed to get my Prinsu rack installed last weekend, but I'm noticing some serious vibration coming from the rack. Enough to where I can notice it visually in my back window. Have you had any issues with vibration?

What position do you have the fairing mounted in. Reason I ask is that on my LC, with the fairing mounted in the higher position which creates a larger gap between the fairing and the roof, I would get a vibration at certain speeds. With the fairing mounted in the lower position and with the rubber strip on the bottom edge, my fairing contacts the roof line, leaving no gap...and no vibration.

 

[eel32]

What position do you have the fairing mounted in. Reason I ask is that on my LC, with the fairing mounted in the higher position which creates a larger gap between the fairing and the roof, I would get a vibration at certain speeds. With the fairing mounted in the lower position and with the rubber strip on the bottom edge, my fairing contacts the roof line, leaving no gap...and no vibration.

Thanks for the heads up. I'll check out my mounting position asap. If memory serves, I think I have a pretty big gap, so maybe that's my issue. Fingers crossed. Thanks!

 

[Tommy Dwyer]

Thanks for the heads up. I'll check out my mounting position asap. If memory serves, I think I have a pretty big gap, so maybe that's my issue. Fingers crossed. Thanks!

No problem, hope it helps and you get it resolved.

 

[livebetter36]

We managed to get my Prinsu rack installed last weekend, but I'm noticing some serious vibration coming from the rack. Enough to where I can notice it visually in my back window. Have you had any issues with vibration?

Not at all. Just arrived in South Dakota from FL. Loaded with max trax, 4gal roto, 2 Wolfpack , and a batwing.

 

[eel32]

Yes, pics of the process would be much appreciated, eel32.

Finally got around to getting some pics of the Prinsu rack install we completed a couple weeks ago. Sorry for the delay. So we don't completely take over this thread, I started a new one.

2016 LX Prinsu Roof Rack Install

I had some requests to post some pics of the Prinsu RR install I recently completed. As stated by a few others, this project wasn't easy. Matter of fact, it was quite the pain in the ass. As suggested, I hired an auto upholstery guy to take down my head liner. He started in the front and...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Chubunch]

In case someone picks up on this thread. I installed a Prinsu on a 17 Lx this weekend. All the holes match up perfect. Paid an upholstery place 285 to lower and put up the headliner. We used his parking lot to install the rack. LX holes aren’t threaded so we had to add some nylock nuts and washers. Easy except for the front 2 each side. Took a finger contortionist. In hindsight I should have just gone home to grab rivnut tool for those 4. Thank god my 20 year old is more patient than I.

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Really like the look of Prinsu on the car. What wheels and tires are you running?

 

[livebetter36]

Really like the look of Prinsu on the car. What wheels and tires are you running?

Thanks. Wheels are Evo Corse. Tires are Cooper AT3 XLT. 285/65/18.

 

[Chrisleduc1]

Put 1000 miles on it a couple weeks ago.
At 70mph, pulling about 3k (est) in trailer weight, 60 gallons of fuel, the wife, 3 kids in car seats, and another ~200 lbs of gear (total GVW est 8500 lbs) I was very thankful for the aux fuel tank.

The owners manual states that the AHC is to be set to low for hooking up a trailer, and if the vehicle has a certain number of passengers, when you push the button to return the suspension to neutral, it may not actually return there, which is OK.

Well, I had my AHC set to auto, which means it drops down when turning off the ignition. After filling up (~60 gallons), the AHC would not return to normal/neutral. I had not yet read the manual, where it states that this is OK. I wasn’t getting any error messages.

I decided to pull over a couple miles after fueling up and dropped the trailer, raised the AHC to N, and then connected the trailer. No problems.

I guess it’s time to add the spacers as others have done.

Here’s a couple pics of the Glass Buttes, where various kinds of obsidian are everywhere for miles and miles.

 

[TacomaLC]

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That obsidian looks like it would be hell on tires!!!

 

[TeCKis300]

Put 1000 miles on it a couple weeks ago.
At 70mph, pulling about 3k (est) in trailer weight, 60 gallons of fuel, the wife, 3 kids in car seats, and another ~200 lbs of gear (total GVW est 8500 lbs) I was very thankful for the aux fuel tank.

The owners manual states that the AHC is to be set to low for hooking up a trailer, and if the vehicle has a certain number of passengers, when you push the button to return the suspension to neutral, it may not actually return there, which is OK.

Well, I had my AHC set to auto, which means it drops down when turning off the ignition. After filling up (~60 gallons), the AHC would not return to normal/neutral. I had not yet read the manual, where it states that this is OK. I wasn’t getting any error messages.

I decided to pull over a couple miles after fueling up and dropped the trailer, raised the AHC to N, and then connected the trailer. No problems.

I guess it’s time to add the spacers as others have done.

It would be interesting to get your axle weights from a CAT scale. I'd bet you're at or above 5000lbs on the rear axle (4300 rated). A rear spacer, 20mm or 30mm, would be the prescribed solution.

In regards to the AHC dash readout. There's two interpretations. It serves to suggest the selected position. Then its saying the suspension height based on best effort. The system is normally constant height within a payload threshold. My experience is that it's right under 5000lbs (AHC probably measures hydraulic pressure) Above that, it will be best effort. It also won't be able to lift to high. Much like a traditional suspension system that sags with additional load, this shouldn't be unexpected and is norm. The readout showing L when overloaded, is not really the kneeling L position. It will have full damping and be above the height of kneeling, but not quite to the N height position.

 

[Chrisleduc1]

It would be interesting to get your axle weights from a CAT scale. I'd bet you're at or above 5000lbs on the rear axle (4300 rated). A rear spacer, 20mm or 30mm, would be the prescribed solution.

In regards to the AHC dash readout. There's two interpretations. It serves to suggest the selected position. Then its saying the suspension height based on best effort. The system is normally constant height within a payload threshold. My experience is that it's right under 5000lbs (AHC probably measures hydraulic pressure) Above that, it will be best effort. It also won't be able to lift to high. Much like a traditional suspension system that sags with additional load, this shouldn't be unexpected and is norm. The readout showing L when overloaded, is not really the kneeling L position. It will have full damping and be above the height of kneeling, but not quite to the N height position.

Last year I was at 4350 on the rear without the tongue weight. One of these days Ill stop and drop it on the scale.

Interestingly enough, when I pulled over the check, I was still sitting in low position even in the front (or darned close!), which is what caused me to drop the trailer and raise it up. Otherwise I would have kept on rolling! I never saw it that low again, after hitching up in N.