- Thread starter
- #141
Builds Mountain Goat '18LX build thread (10 Viewers)
- Thread starter Chrisleduc1
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #142
Wanted to recommend the WeBoost antenna.
It does not create signal, but it will boost an unusably low one to usable levels.
I presently have the exterior antenna router in through the rear hatch to the main box which is just sitting next to the 3rd row seat.
The power cord and interior antenna run under the second row seat and floor mat, to the 12v outlet on the rear of the center console and the antenna on the side of the console.
Now that I’m sure I will keep it, I’ll hide the internal antenna under the dash somewhere and then run the power through the ARB linx system so that I can turn it on as needed, rather than sitting next to amplified signal the whole time. I presently keep it unplugged except on dead spots.
There are better antennas you can purchase as well. Works with all carriers.
It does not create signal, but it will boost an unusably low one to usable levels.
I presently have the exterior antenna router in through the rear hatch to the main box which is just sitting next to the 3rd row seat.
The power cord and interior antenna run under the second row seat and floor mat, to the 12v outlet on the rear of the center console and the antenna on the side of the console.
Now that I’m sure I will keep it, I’ll hide the internal antenna under the dash somewhere and then run the power through the ARB linx system so that I can turn it on as needed, rather than sitting next to amplified signal the whole time. I presently keep it unplugged except on dead spots.
There are better antennas you can purchase as well. Works with all carriers.
- Thread starter
- #143
Had a chance to stop by the scale with three kids in car seats, the wife, and a decent amount of gear in the back, as well as 80% or 90% fuel.
- Thread starter
- #144
Ordered some DBA 4000 t3 rotors and 650 pads, and some Crown stainless lines to go with it.
Happy enough with the WeBoost that I am going to have al the wiring hidden, stash the in-car amp up under the dash right behind where mount my phone on the magnetic holder, and then run the power switch into the LINX system instead of through a 12v outlet, as I like to keep it off when not needed.
Looking forward to seeing how the new brakes feel and stop. Will know in 2 weeks!
So far this beast is unstoppable. Exploring various logging roads always leads to roads that really aren't, and are pretty sketchy, and yet this beast just keeps slowly climbing and progressing, boulders, rocks, off camber, steep, you name it.. But then again, now comes the rainy season, and that will test these Falkens in the one area I hear they are weak - mud.
Now I just need token going until I can find somewhere that I can stretch out this SCAR 20...
Happy enough with the WeBoost that I am going to have al the wiring hidden, stash the in-car amp up under the dash right behind where mount my phone on the magnetic holder, and then run the power switch into the LINX system instead of through a 12v outlet, as I like to keep it off when not needed.
Looking forward to seeing how the new brakes feel and stop. Will know in 2 weeks!
So far this beast is unstoppable. Exploring various logging roads always leads to roads that really aren't, and are pretty sketchy, and yet this beast just keeps slowly climbing and progressing, boulders, rocks, off camber, steep, you name it.. But then again, now comes the rainy season, and that will test these Falkens in the one area I hear they are weak - mud.
Now I just need token going until I can find somewhere that I can stretch out this SCAR 20...
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I’ve only been really stuck twice when I had my falkens, once was deep snow and the second time was wet snow on mud:
they are a great tire but they do not shed mud well. I’ve since switch to STT Pros.
Any chance you can share the part number or spec for the Crown stainless lines you ordered? I didn't see an option for the LX or LC, so I am guessing you placed a custom order. Thanks
- Thread starter
- #147
Unfortunately I don’t have anything. They looked it all up while on the phone. It’s a 6 piece set. Ordered in about 10 mins. They know they’re stuff.
- Thread starter
- #148
Slee sliders are enroute!
The DBA rotors and pads are awesome! They will throw you through the windshield in a hurry. Excellent initial bite, more linear braking, and though I have not measured, the stopping distance is noticeably improved. Also, based on the rotor I went with, I am definitely not concerned about fade...
I have a set of the rotors for pre-16 models, that I picked up on the forum, not realizing they won't work on the 16+. This is a great deal on a 2-pc set. I'd like to try to recover my cost, less shipping.
forum.ih8mud.com
The DBA rotors and pads are awesome! They will throw you through the windshield in a hurry. Excellent initial bite, more linear braking, and though I have not measured, the stopping distance is noticeably improved. Also, based on the rotor I went with, I am definitely not concerned about fade...
I have a set of the rotors for pre-16 models, that I picked up on the forum, not realizing they won't work on the 16+. This is a great deal on a 2-pc set. I'd like to try to recover my cost, less shipping.
For Sale - 2-Piece Rotors Available
Guys, I've been running the PFC 2-piece rotors since August 2012 and been very impressed. Approximately 80k miles without issue. They were designed for and used on the US SOCOM Non-Standard Combat Vehicle contract. Through a deal I ended up with six pair of these rotors. Original price was...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #149
I’m thinking about going back to my stock 20” wheels that I had PVD’d, with my 305/55/20 Falkens.
My current whelks is a +25 offset and so I’ve got good clearance on the UCA etc, but I’m thinking I’m going to have a problem with the stock wheels. I do have a set of .75 Bora spaces, which will get me half way back from stock to the +25 offset I’m running now...
You guys think this setup will work? I hate to pay to remount/rebalance tires, only to have a problem...
My current whelks is a +25 offset and so I’ve got good clearance on the UCA etc, but I’m thinking I’m going to have a problem with the stock wheels. I do have a set of .75 Bora spaces, which will get me half way back from stock to the +25 offset I’m running now...
You guys think this setup will work? I hate to pay to remount/rebalance tires, only to have a problem...
- Thread starter
- #151
I think he is running 1.0 spacers... Im wondering if that .25 is going to make a difference. I am leaning towards no. If I have my numbers right, I was at about +1.5 with the 25 offset, and I am sad to lose some of that..
I think it’s 1” unless he changed something
forum.ih8mud.com
Edit: duh, you said 1”
LX570 Slammed on 33's
Cause I know how much you guys love the Sport in SUV. Time to go hunting for some AMGs.
forum.ih8mud.com
Edit: duh, you said 1”
- Thread starter
- #153
Yea I wasn't completely clear.. I have a set of .75 and so I am losing .25 compared to his 1.0. And compared to what I have now, a +25 offset which is about 1.5 total from stock, I would be not only .25 less than what he is running, but .75 less than what I am currently running.Edit: duh, you said 1”
It should be fine. 45mm or less should clear the UCA. Then again that is a 15mm wider tire. Probably pretty close. What does the tire calculator say vs stock size?
- Thread starter
- #155
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I got stuck in some DEEP mud yesterday, and had to winch myself out. To be honest, I don’t think dedicated mud tires would have made a difference.
Without anything for perspective, the pics dont really do any justice. But you can see the width of my tread, which is just over 12 in, and here I was aired down under 10psi. So the mud was 6-18 inches deep, depending upon how much I sunk myself down.
The pics don’t show that there is a slight grade away from where I am standing, and to the left side of the pic there is a steep drop off, and every move I made brought me further down the hill and closer to the steep drop.
I was just out on a short explatory drive minutes from the house, and ended up being covered in mud and burning more than half the day with getting myself out and then getting the rig and myself clean again.. Good lesson though!
I’ve only been really stuck twice when I had my falkens, once was deep snow and the second time was wet snow on mud:
they are a great tire but they do not shed mud well. I’ve since switch to STT Pros.
I got stuck in some DEEP mud yesterday, and had to winch myself out. To be honest, I don’t think dedicated mud tires would have made a difference.
Without anything for perspective, the pics dont really do any justice. But you can see the width of my tread, which is just over 12 in, and here I was aired down under 10psi. So the mud was 6-18 inches deep, depending upon how much I sunk myself down.
The pics don’t show that there is a slight grade away from where I am standing, and to the left side of the pic there is a steep drop off, and every move I made brought me further down the hill and closer to the steep drop.
I was just out on a short explatory drive minutes from the house, and ended up being covered in mud and burning more than half the day with getting myself out and then getting the rig and myself clean again.. Good lesson though!
- Thread starter
- #156
Had the Slee sliders installed. Very nice. The LEDs are fantastic! Not sure how much clearance was really gained, but at least I’m protected.
- Thread starter
- #157
I finally pulled the trigger on Prinsu load panels to mount my Maxtrax. I thought about installed them on the Slee bumper but then decided that I didn’t want to block my rear window any more.
The panels were a fairly easy install, however, then sit a touch lower that the top of the cross bar. The maxtrax pins have a protrusion on their base that goes into the bottom of the maxtrax and then the pin goes through. The protrusion on the bottom goes up into the bottom of the maxtrax and then the entire pin assembly is prohibited from rotating. But the pin assembly mounted on the panel is lower than the cross bars and so the maxtrax are blocked from coming all the way down onto the protrusion. Not a huge deal, washers will raise the assembly up.
The (4) maxtrax stacked up sit a bit lower than my ARB awning, so it all worked out well.
The panels were a fairly easy install, however, then sit a touch lower that the top of the cross bar. The maxtrax pins have a protrusion on their base that goes into the bottom of the maxtrax and then the pin goes through. The protrusion on the bottom goes up into the bottom of the maxtrax and then the entire pin assembly is prohibited from rotating. But the pin assembly mounted on the panel is lower than the cross bars and so the maxtrax are blocked from coming all the way down onto the protrusion. Not a huge deal, washers will raise the assembly up.
The (4) maxtrax stacked up sit a bit lower than my ARB awning, so it all worked out well.
- Thread starter
- #158
I had the WeBoost wired into my LINX system and so it and all my lights are operated from the controller, all of which is tied to my secondary AGM battery.
I relocated the interior antenna to right behind my magnetic phone mount so that I can set my phone up there and it’s close to the antenna, and the antenna is mounted a bit away from me.
I relocated the interior antenna to right behind my magnetic phone mount so that I can set my phone up there and it’s close to the antenna, and the antenna is mounted a bit away from me.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
looking good! Are you worried about flex near the sliders? Seems a bit close?
- Thread starter
- #160
Not really. If I get some damage in the front or rear, I can always cut back further. I guess its always possible for a crack to go all the way past to where I'd cut and in that case I might have to replace the rocker panel...
