Build Mississippi Delta Beast - 1974 FJ-40 Rescue and Rehabilitation
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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Quick question -
The motor we're rebuilding did not have a lock washer (#14 in pic) on the harmonic balancer/crankshaft nut when I took it apart. I went to SOR to order one since they are diso'd from Toyota, and they say this is only for 9/69 - 7/80 motors.
Did something change that would negate the need for the lock washer? This is a 12/80 motor. Any harm in using it anyway?
The motor we're rebuilding did not have a lock washer (#14 in pic) on the harmonic balancer/crankshaft nut when I took it apart. I went to SOR to order one since they are diso'd from Toyota, and they say this is only for 9/69 - 7/80 motors.
Did something change that would negate the need for the lock washer? This is a 12/80 motor. Any harm in using it anyway?
Now that I'm thinking about it, I'm not sure #60 (crank slinger) was in there either (have to dig thru parts to confirm), and SOR says that, too, is only applicable for pre 8/80 motors.
Can anyone confirm? There were no signs of any foul play, worn, or un-oiled parts up front, so it seems to be correct.
Can anyone confirm? There were no signs of any foul play, worn, or un-oiled parts up front, so it seems to be correct.
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Thread Update...
All of the parts are back from their machine shops, and I am currently assembling it.
Teaser pic:
All of the parts are back from their machine shops, and I am currently assembling it.
Teaser pic:
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Another teaser pic:
I’ll post some more pics this week, but I need to double check the fit of a super secret ingredient before I can brag about it. It’s a new twist on a popular head upgrade.
I’ll post some more pics this week, but I need to double check the fit of a super secret ingredient before I can brag about it. It’s a new twist on a popular head upgrade.
Still waiting on a crank oil slinger and lock washer from $0R before I can seal up the timing cover for good (just loosely bolted on for looks right now.)
Then blast & paint some bits currently on the DB, then the motor will be done.
Several other exciting parts are on the way in, and there’s lots going on behind the scenes. To keep you in suspense, I’ll wait to post more details
Until then, here’s a sneak peak at the motor...
Then blast & paint some bits currently on the DB, then the motor will be done.
Several other exciting parts are on the way in, and there’s lots going on behind the scenes. To keep you in suspense, I’ll wait to post more details
Until then, here’s a sneak peak at the motor...
Thanks for your support: SOR gets the locktabs from me. 
Got the recurved dizzy back from JimC, and put on a big honkin’ oil filter...
And swapped over the accessories...
And swapped over the accessories...
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I ran the exhaust manifold through the electrolysis tank to take the rust off...
After a pressure wash & scrub session I baked it in the oven to thoroughly dry. It comes out so clean, it flash rusts instantly.
No worries, it gets a phosphate wash to convert the rust and gives the high temp paint a sturdy base, which I cured in the oven. This doubles as an insect bomb and saves money on pest control
After a pressure wash & scrub session I baked it in the oven to thoroughly dry. It comes out so clean, it flash rusts instantly.
No worries, it gets a phosphate wash to convert the rust and gives the high temp paint a sturdy base, which I cured in the oven. This doubles as an insect bomb and saves money on pest control
The manifolds are just sitting there for a glamour shot. Since we’re dressing a later motor with earlier parts, the mounting holes have to be drilled out to fit the larger late hardware (same for the motor mount brackets). One of the studs snapped trying to remove it, and the other stud threads were pretty bad, so I drilled & helicoiled the holes so we can go back with all fresh hardware.
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To fuel the rebuilt motor, we decided to go with fuel injection. I’ve used the AFI GM TBI conversion kit several times in the past with great results, but since the last AFI install have become aware of the new Sniper EFI system from Holley.
Very similar to the GM TBI, it uses a few sensors to control the air/fuel ratio and basically acts as a digital carb.
Unlike the (becoming) antiquated GM systems, this one has a wideband O2 sensor, and once you input a few parameters to establish a basic tune, it is entirely self learning as you operate it under different conditions. You are not at the mercy of an AFI/Howell/homebrew tune (or the condition of the motor they based it in). And, if you want to tweak the programming, you can.
Also, the temp/weatherproof computer is mounted within the TBI itself, so you don’t have to run as much wiring.
There have only been a couple of documented Cruiser installs, but it looked promising.
I ordered a master kit, which includes an inline pump and most of what you need to plumb the fuel system.
Inside the giant box are two smaller boxes, one has the fuel system, the other has the TBI & wiring.
I wasn’t sure that the polished chrome-like unit would look right in this truck, so I ordered the black model.
Very similar to the GM TBI, it uses a few sensors to control the air/fuel ratio and basically acts as a digital carb.
Unlike the (becoming) antiquated GM systems, this one has a wideband O2 sensor, and once you input a few parameters to establish a basic tune, it is entirely self learning as you operate it under different conditions. You are not at the mercy of an AFI/Howell/homebrew tune (or the condition of the motor they based it in). And, if you want to tweak the programming, you can.
Also, the temp/weatherproof computer is mounted within the TBI itself, so you don’t have to run as much wiring.
There have only been a couple of documented Cruiser installs, but it looked promising.
I ordered a master kit, which includes an inline pump and most of what you need to plumb the fuel system.
Inside the giant box are two smaller boxes, one has the fuel system, the other has the TBI & wiring.
I wasn’t sure that the polished chrome-like unit would look right in this truck, so I ordered the black model.
Looks good brother. Wish I had of gone with black, but I’ve heard that chrome will get you home.
Haha! Thanks, and thanks for blazing the trail!
Downey made/makes an adapter for the two-barrel Holley pattern, but was out when I inquired.
Measuring the LC carb bolt pattern and consulting the Trans-Dapt & Mr. Gasket adapter charts yielded a couple of promising leads.
The large and small Rochester carb patterns are very close to the Cruiser pattern and I hoped to be able to modify one of those adapters...
Large Rochester:
Small:
Measuring the LC carb bolt pattern and consulting the Trans-Dapt & Mr. Gasket adapter charts yielded a couple of promising leads.
The large and small Rochester carb patterns are very close to the Cruiser pattern and I hoped to be able to modify one of those adapters...
Large Rochester:
Small:
The small pattern adapter looked to be the easiest to modify, and after opening up the mounting holes with a dremel, it fit like a glove.
As you can see, the wings do interfere with the manifold studs/nuts. Adding the stock insulator underneath almost clears it, but one of the wings still needs a little carving.
As you can see, the wings do interfere with the manifold studs/nuts. Adding the stock insulator underneath almost clears it, but one of the wings still needs a little carving.
Finished product:
