- Thread starter
- #981
Yes. He asked in a PM but you can't send photos. I guess to limit dick pics.
Builds Megadoomer Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Megadoomer
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Rush,
I had a thermostat housing leak and wanted to replace my hoses, which have to be custom searched for. I forgot to write down the upper hose number years before that I used.
I had a thermostat housing leak and wanted to replace my hoses, which have to be custom searched for. I forgot to write down the upper hose number years before that I used.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Keep us posted on what you come up with. Gonna need those at some point.
One thing I didn't do when ordering my radiator, was match the inlet and outlet dia. to the motor. Not only do I have to come up with the right bends, etc., but also the right dia. ends. All mine are different. I could of had the radiator outlets made the same as the motor and make sure to have both on the pass. side if using a Chevy 5.3.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
So you’re saying you should get a nother radiator?
- Thread starter
- #986
Speedway Double Pass Aluminum Radiator, Chevy
Our line of universal Chevy radiators makes it easy for budget-minded racers to get a professional-quality, no compromises aluminum racing radiator. Performs Under Pressure Constructed of lightweight, 100% aluminum, we furnace braze the radiator assembly for maximum durability and performance...
I am very happy with this radiator. It is meant for LS swaps and has the right sizes. I got the 26in and used their radiator strap and fan shroud kit.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
The price is definitely right
I'll wait until mine springs a leak. It's a nice alum. one, so no hurry.
Doomer...I have really appreciated following your common sense build. I say "common sense" because some of us tend to wander off into the "because I can" or "some is good, more is better" routes that, in my view, consume unnecessary dollars or complicate things that might otherwise be simple. I appreciate that they advance our knowledge, envy their skills and more power to them for following their dreams but...
Besides...I like it that you'll now be better equipped to pull me out the next time I try to follow you through some Pig Party mudhole!
Besides...I like it that you'll now be better equipped to pull me out the next time I try to follow you through some Pig Party mudhole!
- Thread starter
- #990
And you got that nice bumper now!
Thank you for your kind words.
Thank you for your kind words.
- Thread starter
- #991
oops, I hit the post button.
Basically my Pig build is pretty much only funded by what I make on the weekends. So If I want to ever drive it I have to make those common sense purchases.
Basically my Pig build is pretty much only funded by what I make on the weekends. So If I want to ever drive it I have to make those common sense purchases.
- Thread starter
- #992
I got to work on the pig this weekend! Been very busy at work. I got promoted to Director and my side hustle has been demanding. We finally got covid a few weeks ago. After 2 years of smart choices, Peyton brought it home from school. Everyone is good, just a bad cold. I started getting symptoms on my first day off in 17 days, wtf.
Anyway, not a bunch of sexy work on the pig. I had been getting a weird hesitation and decided to change the injectors, coil packs, and the MAF sensor. Chased a gremlin in the starter switch. When I turn the key it was click the solenoid but not crank. The voltage would only got to 3 volts some times. Replaced the wires and connectors and it seems to be better. I am trying to get it settled for the dude to take the pig and do some dyno tuning.
The one kind of fun thing we did was start on the front sway bar. Got the bar mounted but need to order some links. I wasn't sure what lengths I needed until it was mocked up.
Anyway, not a bunch of sexy work on the pig. I had been getting a weird hesitation and decided to change the injectors, coil packs, and the MAF sensor. Chased a gremlin in the starter switch. When I turn the key it was click the solenoid but not crank. The voltage would only got to 3 volts some times. Replaced the wires and connectors and it seems to be better. I am trying to get it settled for the dude to take the pig and do some dyno tuning.
The one kind of fun thing we did was start on the front sway bar. Got the bar mounted but need to order some links. I wasn't sure what lengths I needed until it was mocked up.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
on promotion. Let me know how sway bar works out 
, Doomer looking good 
Hope Peyton (and the rest of the family) are recovering well. We had to leave Moab early this weekend because Bonnie wasn’t feeling well. COVID-like symptoms but test at the doc’s yesterday was negative.
Cool grill!
- Thread starter
- #996
Played hooky from real work on Wednesday and did some side gig bs. Finished early and decided to work on the pig. Got the sway bar in and just need to paint the parts now. Put new tabs on driver side and had to remove the turn lock. The passenger side it worked out that i could add a hole in the side of the panhard bar bracket. Cut a little of the rad support for the arms to travel up. Need to notch the lower valence too.
Took for a ride and it definitely got the front end locked down. Not sure if it has always been bad or if the front tightening up makes the back wag more. Either way I think I am going to try to fashion a axel mounted sway bar from a heep or isuzu. Need to find the right one.
Had an issue with the front speakers not working. Replaced the wires and all good. But fishing them thru the door conduit was a pita. Driver rear window motor got wet and doesn't work. So I need to find a new one. The back door locks have an issue too. Think the control unit is sus because the actuators work off the battery fine. A few chingos to deal with but getting it tuned next week.
Took for a ride and it definitely got the front end locked down. Not sure if it has always been bad or if the front tightening up makes the back wag more. Either way I think I am going to try to fashion a axel mounted sway bar from a heep or isuzu. Need to find the right one.
Had an issue with the front speakers not working. Replaced the wires and all good. But fishing them thru the door conduit was a pita. Driver rear window motor got wet and doesn't work. So I need to find a new one. The back door locks have an issue too. Think the control unit is sus because the actuators work off the battery fine. A few chingos to deal with but getting it tuned next week.
Good job to scratch off the list!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Ride was Good??
- Thread starter
- #999
At 45mph I gave it a good yank both ways and it felt like my Explorer sport, until the backend caught up. It is an improvement but if I want to go the offroad trailer route I need a rear sway bar too.
- Thread starter
- #1,000
My webernettin told me that a 90s Bronco or F-150 had a frame width near an FJ55. My reason for caring about that. is that I wanted to find a vehicle that had a rear sway bar that would attached to the axle and link up to the frame, but be narrow enough to not interfere with the leaf spring. On Sunday, I ran to the local pick ur part to scour their ford collection. It looks like the 90s ranger might do well but they we an option and I didnt see any with a sway bar. Then I found the F series trucks and it looked like they were going to work. I got 2 sway bars actually. One off of a 97 F-350 Dually and the other was 92 F-150. The F-150 was actually a few inches wider thant the 350, but it had a nice removable mounting system. The F-350 mount points were welded to the axle. Bother about 7/8" thick.
After some tacos we ran back to Steve's house where the Pig has been for a few months. We did a quick test fit so I could plan what parts to buy or make to mount. That test fit turned into a fab session. The F-350 bar was the one I went with being 33in wide vs 37in. Used the mounts from the 150 and the links because they were about an inch longer and drilled a hole through the frame and its mounted. Was one of the easier retrofits I have done on the Pig. Test drive went well, it feels more stable so I am happing wit it. I scooted out of there in a hurry to get home and rest a bit so I forgot to take pictures. I will get some this week.
In other news. I took my Pig to a LS tune guru on Monday to get it dialed in. Turns out there are a few issues with the motor and CPU. When I bought the motor and cpu the guy said it was sure the engine was a 2003 Silverado and I tend to agree with that after building it back up. But the cpu he gave me was a 2004 Tahoe. The turner said that, because I put all the sensors for a 2003 on the engine that the CPU doesn't like them and that is where my hesitation was coming from. The CPU is a flex fuel computer and those engines used larger injectors than what I put on and number of other chingos. He is tracking down the parts I need and will install them. I am waiting for him to call today to let me know what the damage is going to be, and if it will even work at all.
Moral of the story, buy a donor while it is in the truck/car. Make sure you get everything and it all matches.
After some tacos we ran back to Steve's house where the Pig has been for a few months. We did a quick test fit so I could plan what parts to buy or make to mount. That test fit turned into a fab session. The F-350 bar was the one I went with being 33in wide vs 37in. Used the mounts from the 150 and the links because they were about an inch longer and drilled a hole through the frame and its mounted. Was one of the easier retrofits I have done on the Pig. Test drive went well, it feels more stable so I am happing wit it. I scooted out of there in a hurry to get home and rest a bit so I forgot to take pictures. I will get some this week.
In other news. I took my Pig to a LS tune guru on Monday to get it dialed in. Turns out there are a few issues with the motor and CPU. When I bought the motor and cpu the guy said it was sure the engine was a 2003 Silverado and I tend to agree with that after building it back up. But the cpu he gave me was a 2004 Tahoe. The turner said that, because I put all the sensors for a 2003 on the engine that the CPU doesn't like them and that is where my hesitation was coming from. The CPU is a flex fuel computer and those engines used larger injectors than what I put on and number of other chingos. He is tracking down the parts I need and will install them. I am waiting for him to call today to let me know what the damage is going to be, and if it will even work at all.
Moral of the story, buy a donor while it is in the truck/car. Make sure you get everything and it all matches.
