Builds Meet Uma and not the one you are thinking of (61 Viewers)

[mtn biker]

It has been a while especially since I was doing updates every day there for a while. The new head gasket is in, and I have everything torqued down correctly. Since the Haynes manual says the torque is 90 foot/ pounds I started at 60 and did the whole sequence, then 75 and did the whole sequence, then 90 did the whole sequence, then went back and did it a second time at 90. I got the rocker arms in and did the preliminary valve lash.

Marking the rockers with a white paint pen as I went. I pressure tested the cooling system and found a couple minor leaks. One is back at the rear heater the other was at the fire wall. The head didn't seem to have a leak.

I got the front bib on and got the wiring hooked up. There are still a few bib bolts that need to go in however and some of those are the grounds for my extra lights. I got the bumper on the high-lift in place and the light bar and pods in place.

 

[firefighterjed]

Yes!!!

 

[Living in the Past]

@mtn biker So how long has your 69 been off the road? My poor 68 it will be twenty years next year. Clutch went out and never got replaced. Finally given up on my son who destroyed the clutch and promised to replace it. Need to sell at least one FJ40 to have room to work on it. Installing a four speed without modifying the frame or tub complicates things. But the H42 is worth it.

 

[mtn biker]

@mtn biker So how long has your 69 been off the road? My poor 68 it will be twenty years next year. Clutch went out and never got replaced. Finally given up on my son who destroyed the clutch and promised to replace it. Need to sell at least one FJ40 to have room to work on it. Installing a four speed without modifying the frame or tub complicates things. But the H42 is worth it.

The F motor spun a bearing in February, got the 2F in March but because an ID10T code I didn't get the dizzy into the oil pump and spun an other bearing. I sent it to the machine shop and got the crank ground, new bearings (main, crank, and cam) new rings. In the head I got new valve seals, and did valve seat surfacing. I got the motor rebuilt and clocked and timed. Now it just comes down finishing it off. Essentially 9-10 months. I can't wait to be driving it again. I have the opposite problem as you I only have 1 truck to work on.

 

[mtn biker]

They are here and in. The spark plug wires showed up today and they are the correct length. And the plug wires came from Le Pays Maudit with all of the other smurfs

 

[mtn biker]

If you know, YOU KNOW. When you see it you'll know. That explains a lot

 

[clrussell]

Tooth off?

 

[mrboatman]

Maybe 2 teeth off

 

[RevISK]

Are we into toof off territory yet?

 

[mtn biker]

So I believe that I have the timing just right if not for a little bit advanced.

But I am not going to lie there is quite a bit of fear I have for starting it up again.

 

[clrussell]

I haven’t read this to much.

Distributor wasn’t turning the oil pump and killed the engine quickly? Then you rebuilt?

Where is distributor from?

 

[mtn biker]

I haven’t read this to much.

Distributor wasn’t turning the oil pump and killed the engine quickly? Then you rebuilt?

Where is distributor from?

Long story 3 years ago when I pulled the engine to redo the seals I didn't do a good job at replacing the seals and I developed a leak. well after a while of occasional driving then about 4 months of daily driving, (and not staying on top of checking the oil) I spun a bearing in the F. I bought a 2F that came with a jenky distributor that the wiring was twisted together and missing the condenser and overall just not in good shape. I pulled the good working dizzy out if the F and put it into the 2F. I got it started and running and as i was trying to tune the carb and get it good to go I spun a bearing on the 2F because the distributor wasn't driving the oil pump. So now I had to spend the money all over again and machine the 2F crank clean up the block and completely rebuild the 2F. Rings, bearings, seals, gaskets, EVERYTHING. I had anted to do an HEI for quite a while and I figured that this would be the best time to do so. But after smoking 2 motors in the space of a month I am extremely gun shy.

 

[mtn biker]

Are we into toof off territory yet?

Not too sure about "toof" off but I am well acquainted with "goof off" territory. Maybe that is why i get the ID10T code so much

 

[clrussell]

Long story 3 years ago when I pulled the engine to redo the seals I didn't do a good job at replacing the seals and I developed a leak. well after a while of occasional driving then about 4 months of daily driving, (and not staying on top of checking the oil) I spun a bearing in the F. I bought a 2F that came with a jenky distributor that the wiring was twisted together and missing the condenser and overall just not in good shape. I pulled the good working dizzy out if the F and put it into the 2F. I got it started and running and as i was trying to tune the carb and get it good to go I spun a bearing on the 2F because the distributor wasn't driving the oil pump. So now I had to spend the money all over again and machine the 2F crank clean up the block and completely rebuild the 2F. Rings, bearings, seals, gaskets, EVERYTHING. I had anted to do an HEI for quite a while and I figured that this would be the best time to do so. But after smoking 2 motors in the space of a month I am extremely gun shy.

Phew yeah that’s rough.

Where is your new distributor from?

 

[yotadude520]

Before you start it unplug the ignition coil and see if your building oil pressure with a mechanical gauge while cranking. That way you can be sure the distributor is making contact with the oil pump.

 

[mtn biker]

Phew yeah that’s rough.

Where is your new distributor from?

https://www.amazon.com/Team-Performance-Distributor-Compatible-Installation/dp/B073WN46BV/ref=pd_ybh_a_d_sccl_62/131-6103837-2739339?pd_rd_w=aom2q&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_p=67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_r=TGGBSTK6GT9AY13GJJC9&pd_rd_wg=epWGJ&pd_rd_r=471c31da-3a96-492d-b99a-defe02220b26&pd_rd_i=B073WN46BV&th=1

 

[yotadude520]

As a follow up to the mechanical gauge, this is what I would buy:

https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Liquid-Filled-Mechanical-Pressure/dp/B0C2D6THQH/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=13DPSQA6DPJJV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.u9sMYqF2IWrQrpc5DMJlxkEJtHUVsSL9N7Lel6VUTsiCV9p1Q2hbkSmqGUYGX4VduStosu_BifAHwSJ59e2xi7xHfBFjjSIA9rD5kXOI9-aWY4aUcwYTycEuqVuZd6IETaGYVRa74XhjQjBNd6HNtBKjKyWvNQkT1EWt5Rj-Lx89eoiHb5lOwAfnwldF9rPbyZk2ZHAb8lskt40-vR_c_ZevfVWZU8Q4yWtAU21cSmrUO0h-iKR-V0DBI5ebO7PVnYnjRSniKmfOuM60hM4W3baBE0-xa_sw7dyYbWHY70Q.kC26Q1qdMQX2_Y-m9nifLUimKYvwW0Bgwy5wpF1sI5U&dib_tag=se&keywords=mechanical+oil+pressure+gauge&qid=1729095034&s=automotive&sprefix=mechanical+oil+pressure+gau%2Cautomotive%2C140&sr=1-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Unthread the stock oil pressure sensor and thread this in it's place prior to starting. I'd keep it on there during startup so you can get real time oil pressure. If it were me I'd honestly install a 1/8 tee and keep both.

 

[clrussell]

https://www.amazon.com/Team-Performance-Distributor-Compatible-Installation/dp/B073WN46BV/ref=pd_ybh_a_d_sccl_62/131-6103837-2739339?pd_rd_w=aom2q&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_p=67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_r=TGGBSTK6GT9AY13GJJC9&pd_rd_wg=epWGJ&pd_rd_r=471c31da-3a96-492d-b99a-defe02220b26&pd_rd_i=B073WN46BV&th=1

I have read that the gm and the Toyota use a different distributor gear.

However I had my 20+ year old hei out of mine last week and compared to a new gm dist gear and they seemed identical.

My original gear was moved about 1/4” down the shaft though for some reason.

 

[aging fleet]

Let her rip Dan!

 

[firefighterjed]

Do it!!