Build Matubrembrem’s OJ60.06

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Big day

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I was planning on running the engine for the first time today but I wanted to test the rebuilt injectors I got last year. Good thing I did. They were messed up big time.

Pop pressure was inconsistent across the set from 2.4k-2.7k psi. Spray patterns were bad on 3, streaky. One was leaking at the nozzle at 2.35k psi, one leaked from the body and the threads on that injector for the hard line were boogered.
 
Modified my accelerator pedal to work with a throttle cable vs the linkage factory setup. I bought an FJ62 pedal assy. to use, but the mounting locations and bolt patterns were totally different and I did not want to drill any new holes. I also modified the 62 hand throttle bracket so it all works together. Bolt hole for the firewall heat shield was in the perfect spot for the cable too. Needs paint but it works.

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I’ve been thinking about the cooling system routing since I deleted the rear heater and what coolant I ought to be using. Mercedes calls for G-05/G48 for the 606. I also have a new aluminum radiator on the way that is much larger than factory and will fit better with the fan offset.
 
Modified my accelerator pedal to work with a throttle cable vs the linkage factory setup. I bought an FJ62 pedal assy. to use, but the mounting locations and bolt patterns were totally different and I did not want to drill any new holes. I also modified the 62 hand throttle bracket so it all works together. Bolt hole for the firewall heat shield was in the perfect spot for the cable too. Needs paint but it works.

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Nice work so far!

For future reference Redline Land Cruisers sells a bracket to convert the FJ60 pedal from linkage to throttle cable. All you need to do is cut off the ball end and then drill it out to fit the throttle cable.

Picture of bracket is below:

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Nice work so far!

For future reference Redline Land Cruisers sells a bracket to convert the FJ60 pedal from linkage to throttle cable. All you need to do is cut off the ball end and then drill it out to fit the throttle cable.

Picture of bracket is below:

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I saw these and they are probably nicer than what I did, but I had parts and a can do attitude so I pieced it together.
 
First fitting in the truck. Everything clears well, only two spots will need some fiddling. The back of the head is touching the heater lines on the firewall and the whole drivetrain sits ~1.5” further forward on the factory transmission crossmember. I’m gonna play with the positioning a little more but I’m really happy with how it fits in there.

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Got the engine side mounts tacked in. Ran out of time on the frame side mounts. Fit up was a bit tight so I’ll need to modify them a little more

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before you get too far, I would *highly* recommend not using bushings like that as motor mounts, espeically with a diesel. They are good for buggies, racecars, things with a lot of chassis stiffness but they really do not hold up well long term with a flexy Land cruiser and once they start to go it's a rather immediate. You will also get a lot of vibrations through the truck. Go with a motor mount designed to be a motor mount, it will be worth it. Can you use the OEM Mercedes mounts? They look pretty simple to build some frame brackets for.
 
before you get too far, I would *highly* recommend not using bushings like that as motor mounts, espeically with a diesel. They are good for buggies, racecars, things with a lot of chassis stiffness but they really do not hold up well long term with a flexy Land cruiser and once they start to go it's a rather immediate. You will also get a lot of vibrations through the truck. Go with a motor mount designed to be a motor mount, it will be worth it. Can you use the OEM Mercedes mounts? They look pretty simple to build some frame brackets for.
I could but I had concerns about their longevity in a 4wd, being a fluid filled style. I also thought about using the 2F isolators but was not sure if they would hold up to the torque
 
1HZ diesel motor mounts would be a good option, inexpensize and you know would hold up. Easy to build around as well.
 
I could but I had concerns about their longevity in a 4wd, being a fluid filled style. I also thought about using the 2F isolators but was not sure if they would hold up to the torque
Fwiw the anchor brand fluid filled mounts I used on my truck have held up perfectly fine. I am not nice to it. I recommend a fluid filled mount option.

2f ones aren't a good option, once they delam the engine is totally free.
 
Well the engine is pretty much where it’s going to stay. I’m trying to decide where to mount my intercooler in the stack. Originally, I had planned to mount it right out front, which would require some trimming of the grille and rad support and mount my a/c condenser and radiator behind the radiator support. But, now that I’ve got everything in there to mock up, I have a lot of room between the engine fan and rad support and I’m wondering if I should put the ac condenser in the factory location right under the rad support followed by the intercooler then radiator.

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