Build Matubrembrem’s OJ60.06

Member Build Threads

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

It just depends what is most important to you, AC performance, or your intercooler performance. Either are going to get hot and feed hot air into the other. Looks like you can go a lot taller with the intercooler as well. Have you looked at how @GLTHFJ60 mounted his intercooler in his 60? He has lots of good pics and fitment and has plenty of room with the stock AC condenser.
 
matubrembrem said:
Test fit success

View attachment 3990482

View attachment 3990483
Click to expand...
Is this the DPUK adapter? I just ordered one for my OM606 swap, looks like everything went together nicely. hoping to get started in December, can't wait to see and read about how it runs and drives! I would definitely recommend using the fluid filled mounts if you haven't already switched to them. I drove a OM swapped 4runner that used hard mounts and it shook the runner so bad it was almost unbearable to be in the truck for more than a few minutes. good luck with the build!
 
87freerunner said:
Is this the DPUK adapter? I just ordered one for my OM606 swap, looks like everything went together nicely. hoping to get started in December, can't wait to see and read about how it runs and drives! I would definitely recommend using the fluid filled mounts if you haven't already switched to them. I drove a OM swapped 4runner that used hard mounts and it shook the runner so bad it was almost unbearable to be in the truck for more than a few minutes. good luck with the build!
Click to expand...
Thanks, It is the dpuk adapter. I’m probably going to use the anchor 2698 mounts. What engine did that 4runner have swapped?
 
matubrembrem said:
Thanks, It is the dpuk adapter. I’m probably going to use the anchor 2698 mounts. What engine did that 4runner have swapped?
Click to expand...
it was not a 606, pretty sure it was an OM617 but can't quite remember. it was a teeth rattler tho. hood exit dump, loud as hell... but it was a fun comparison from my 22re
 
matubrembrem said:
Thanks, It is the dpuk adapter. I’m probably going to use the anchor 2698 mounts. What engine did that 4runner have swapped?
Click to expand...
Also, just out of curiosity what turbo setup and pump are you running? I was originally thinking of an HX30 with 6mm mechanical pump but my motor came with a borg warner S252 setup so I'm just going to run with it, if it's super laggy i'll swap to a smaller turbo... Haven't decided on a mechanical pump because I keep getting conflicting information. It seems many people with real world experience recommend dieselmeken 7.5mm pump.
 
I could definitely see an OM617 shaking the crap out of a car with the wrong mounts. My 300TD would shake bad when one of the engine mounts went and the engine was cold.

On the turbo and fuel, I'll be running a Holset HE250 w/ 8cm2 housing and for now a 7.5mm mechanical pump from benzinjection, 120cc max fuel. I wanted to go with the dpuk 6mm at 120cc-130cc or even the 8.5mm at 120cc-130cc for the shorter injection duration, but the BI pump was significantly cheaper when you factor exchange rate and duties. I still might go that route if the 7.5mm jerks the truck too much with the manual trans. I've read conflicting info on how big of a problem the jerking is with a manual, but Luke was pretty adamant the 7.5mm would jerk when we talked about it, so we'll see.
 
cruisermatt said:
It just depends what is most important to you, AC performance, or your intercooler performance. Either are going to get hot and feed hot air into the other. Looks like you can go a lot taller with the intercooler as well. Have you looked at how @GLTHFJ60 mounted his intercooler in his 60? He has lots of good pics and fitment and has plenty of room with the stock AC condenser.
Click to expand...
Just went through it and saw the pics. I'll probably mimic how he set it up. Looks good and fits well.
 
matubrembrem said:
I could definitely see an OM617 shaking the crap out of a car with the wrong mounts. My 300TD would shake bad when one of the engine mounts went and the engine was cold.

On the turbo and fuel, I'll be running a Holset HE250 w/ 8cm2 housing and for now a 7.5mm mechanical pump from benzinjection, 120cc max fuel. I wanted to go with the dpuk 6mm at 120cc-130cc or even the 8.5mm at 120cc-130cc for the shorter injection duration, but the BI pump was significantly cheaper when you factor exchange rate and duties. I still might go that route if the 7.5mm jerks the truck too much with the manual trans. I've read conflicting info on how big of a problem the jerking is with a manual, but Luke was pretty adamant the 7.5mm would jerk when we talked about it, so we'll see.
Click to expand...
yeah, I've been stuck in the analysis paralysis mode on what size pump and who to get it from. The jerking thing seems so inconsistent from talking with lots of different people so I really don't know what to believe, but since I also will be running an H55 im worried about it... Ill be ordering my pump in a few weeks so Ill let you know what I end up with.
 
87freerunner said:
Also, just out of curiosity what turbo setup and pump are you running? I was originally thinking of an HX30 with 6mm mechanical pump but my motor came with a borg warner S252 setup so I'm just going to run with it, if it's super laggy i'll swap to a smaller turbo... Haven't decided on a mechanical pump because I keep getting conflicting information. It seems many people with real world experience recommend dieselmeken 7.5mm pump.
Click to expand...
Which turbine housing?
 
Motor mounts v2 tacked in. Going to trim the ends so they are flush with the isolators. Anchor 2698. They were around $15/per on rock auto. P/s

IMG_9829.webp
 
Last edited:
I also redid the trans x member. Going to trim and clean this up some more before I paint it all. For now it’s all in there. I’ve never welded before, so I’m learning as I go.

IMG_9831.webp
 
The anchor fluid filled ones are awesome. You won't regret it.
 
much better on the motor mounts. That was absolutely worth it. What was the reason for canging the transmission crossmember, did the stock one not work?
That isn't your final design, is it? That is a really small amount of surfact area contacting your plates to the tubing, that will likely not last very long at all
 
cruisermatt said:
much better on the motor mounts. That was absolutely worth it. What was the reason for canging the transmission crossmember, did the stock one not work?
That isn't your final design, is it? That is a really small amount of surfact area contacting your plates to the tubing, that will likely not last very long at all
Click to expand...
Yeah, I cut up the stock one to make it work but ultimately the angles/positioning in the trans tunnel were not ideal so it ended up being easier to just make a new one. Not the final design but it’ll work for now. The 1/4” plates actually side 1.5” into a slot in the square tube then are welded all the way around.

There’s another part of this project I’m planning to start in the spring/summer, after the engine swap is done, that will require removal of the outer frame brackets for the x member anyway so I opted not to utilize them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom