Massive performance with CT26 turbo modified with 65mm Garrett turbine.

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Finally fitted then?;)

Can you tell me what your minimum rpm is to get 10psi? How does spool compare to the CT26 and which turbine A/R did you get?

*edit*
BTW the 65mm mentioned earlier is the compressor inlet. To put that into perspective your GT2871 in 56 trim has a 53mm inlet.

ok got the .64 hot side and i will go for a drive toomorrow and let you know. what gear or road speed did you want to know it will make 10psi. any thing else you want to know just let me know.
 
ok got the .64 hot side and i will go for a drive toomorrow and let you know. what gear or road speed did you want to know it will make 10psi. any thing else you want to know just let me know.

Compared to the .63 on the CT26 it´s actually pretty close .. did you have the hot side inducer and exducer numbers .. ?

try it in 3rd and 4th and let us know .. I'm interested in this too .. I was under the mpreson that GT2870 it's the bigger that you can run keeping the perfect performance of the CT26
 
The CT26 is a good base to work off of for a 46trim or 50trim upgrade. Anything larger and the downfalls of the small turbine start to be come very obvious. 57/60/65 compressors are just far too big for the small turbine on the CT26. You will end up with very unbalanced performance throughout your power band and more than likely your EGT's will get quite high due to all that air flow trying to squeeze through that small stock turbine.
 
ok got the .64 hot side and i will go for a drive toomorrow and let you know. what gear or road speed did you want to know it will make 10psi. any thing else you want to know just let me know.

The gear shouldn't change the rpm neeeded to get 10psi boost, but a higher gear will make the rev change slower so it's easier to spot.

Cheers.
 
The gear shouldn't change the rpm neeeded to get 10psi boost, but a higher gear will make the rev change slower so it's easier to spot.

Cheers.
Higher gears typically create more load at lower RPM and will, in most cases, cause a turbo to spool up quicker.
 
great thread .. what I like ..

1. 270HP where .. at the wheels .. and how they measure it .. Dyno .. ?

I PM the guy and he told me that they got those 270 HP at the wheels in a Dyno?. I think "banco de potencia" is the same of a Dyno, isn't it?.

BUT, he said that about 1.2-1.4 BAR of turbo pressure and lots of fuel were needed to get that power. Anyway, he also says and swears that with the 65mm turbo, a good intercooler and injectors in good condition he can get 220HP easily with stock turbo pressure from a 1HD-T or 1HD-FT, and keeping safe EGT's.

If you take a look at his thread you'll see why I got confused:

• Ver Tema - Preparación Garrett para el turbo de serie

By the way, you speak spanish, so you can get lots of information about this turbo conversion through this thread. I don't understan the technical parts to explain here, so you better read it yourself.
 
The CT26 is a good base to work off of for a 46trim or 50trim upgrade. Anything larger and the downfalls of the small turbine start to be come very obvious. 57/60/65 compressors are just far too big for the small turbine on the CT26. You will end up with very unbalanced performance throughout your power band and more than likely your EGT's will get quite high due to all that air flow trying to squeeze through that small stock turbine.

Ok, I must confess to this point that I'm getting lost with the turbo theory, cold side, hot side, turbine... my knowledge of how a turbo works is very limited.

So, for the dummies like me.

1- You think in the case of needing a turbo rebuild, or a preventive turbo rebuild, the garrett modification this guy makes is advisable, but just up 50mm??. What are the advantages to be achieved by this?

2- What are the downfalls of the small turbine with bigger compressors? When you say unbalanced performance you mean all the power at high rpms and very poor off boost response?.
 
I PM the guy and he told me that they got those 270 HP at the wheels in a Dyno?. I think "banco de potencia" is the same of a Dyno, isn't it?.

BUT, he said that about 1.2-1.4 BAR of turbo pressure and lots of fuel were needed to get that power. Anyway, he also says and swears that with the 65mm turbo, a good intercooler and injectors in good condition he can get 220HP easily with stock turbo pressure from a 1HD-T or 1HD-FT, and keeping safe EGT's.

If you take a look at his thread you'll see why I got confused:

• Ver Tema - Preparación Garrett para el turbo de serie

By the way, you speak spanish, so you can get lots of information about this turbo conversion through this thread. I don't understan the technical parts to explain here, so you better read it yourself.

I don't think 1.4 bar is enough to get safe EGT's at 270 wheel hp. Sure you can get that much power on a dyno, but it won't be a safe tune for actual driving. I think you need 2 bar minimum to make that power at 4000rpm.

Maybe his dyno is out, but if he's talking stock boost with his new turbo at 220hp then he is talking about the same airflow through the engine. Only adding an intercooler isn't enough to get 60hp safely.
On an FT sure, they run higher boost and the four valve head gives better airflow. The FTE is close to 200hp stock, so an extra 20hp is easy.
But not on a 2 valve HD-T. They run less boost and would need to find another 60hp.

Putting a big compressor on a turbo is the same as putting a small turbine on a big turbo. It makes it spool faster than the big wheel normally does. Unfortunately this means you're running them in a flow range where they can surge.
It also means that most of the airflow capacity of the big wheel is wasted as the small turbine can't pass the amount of air which the turbine can flow.

With smaller changes in wheel size it's a good fine-tuning method. But big changes like this one don't work well. I'm always a little suspicious as well when the person reporting such wonderful gains and no downsides is selling the product.
 
ok so went for a drive today and found that it would make 10psi in 3rd or 4th at 2300 rpm going up hill and about 2500 rpm on the flat. wo what can you tell me about the size of this turbo on the 1hdt engine.
 
ok so went for a drive today and found that it would make 10psi in 3rd or 4th at 2300 rpm going up hill and about 2500 rpm on the flat. wo what can you tell me about the size of this turbo on the 1hdt engine.

That's quite high. Hopefully your post-intercooler tune will bring it down a little. The boost compensator adjustment will have a big effect.

I'm a fan of smaller, faster spooling turbos. So it's good to find out how the big turbos compare.
 
ok so went for a drive today and found that it would make 10psi in 3rd or 4th at 2300 rpm going up hill and about 2500 rpm on the flat. wo what can you tell me about the size of this turbo on the 1hdt engine.

That's quite high. Hopefully your post-intercooler tune will bring it down a little. The boost compensator adjustment will have a big effect.

I'm a fan of smaller, faster spooling turbos. So it's good to find out how the big turbos compare.

Yeah, I would say thats higher than ideal.

I have recently fitted a 7MGTE (Supra) CT26 with 1HD-T turbine housing to my partially rebuilt 1HD-T.
Without pushing it hard I found I made around 5psi boost by 1600rpm, 10psi before 2000rpm peaking at 22psi at 2500rpm (wastegate hose popped off :bang::bang:) These boost levels are at about 200-250rpm lower than what I had observed with the stock 1HD-T turbo.
 
actually my stock turbo made full boost at 1800 rpm .. and I like it big time .. what it's my goal it's swap, made, buy a turbo that can made the same full boost at same rpm ( said 16 PSI ) but a bit more in the middle of the eficience island ..

And about that .. I know we haven't the turbo map of the CT26 .. but I'm under the impresion that about 14 PSI it's the border line for CT26 .. more boots and it will be out of the most eficience island.

And about 270 RWHP ...

I still seriusly doubt it ..

Think about the 1HD-T was factory released ( brand sparkling new engine ) with 168HP at the flywheel .. it will end with said 150 RWHP as best scenario ..

getting more than 100 HP at wheels looks tuff to me ..
 
I've been researching about this guy, Jean Claude Chaux. It seems he is one of the biggest experts on Toyota Diesels. In fact, he has an engine workshop and they have been working from 1995 exclusively on Toyota 6 cylinders in line Diesels. Nothing else.

JCC HDJ LAND CRUISER 6 CYLINDRES

Click on the right down corner, where it says "Moteur 1HD-T 300CV"
 
So what happened with this any updates? I don't see why these engines have a tough time making horsepower. North American diesels make huge power with the kind of tinkering around that I have been reading people doing. Can't expect the 400-600 HP range of them because they are bigger engines but I don't see why these engines can't be around 300 HP.

I think we are all just playing with too low of boost. The 12V 5.9L was rated at 180 HP at the factory and with some increased boost to about 35 psi and fuel you can easily get to 450 hp. It seems like we aren't making diesel power gains but more like gas engine power gains. I'm going to try and break the norm by running 30-35 psi in the engine and see how that works. Obviously need a different turbo because the CT26 explodes in around the 24 psi range when boosted there for long periods of time.
 
Mates :

just some thoughts to what canadian bum mentions - Toyota designs for reliability -

many of the new diesels designed today incorporate bunt pan/dished piston , Piezo injectors , common rail injection - a slew of electronic gizmo's all together to get such increased no's
the CT26 is also a shaft bearing as too ball bearing -
increasing boost close to 3 bar would give you immediate results but how do you think the moteur would be able to take such increases - -

just me talking - if that is my goal , I would seek another moteur advanced already to drop in and tweak

enjoy the holidays

cheers:
 
The old 12 valve is about as simple as the Toyota diesel. None of the guys that have built these performance engines have Common rail. The most HP is the one boosting 70 psi and is an all mechanical mid 90's 12 valve. It probably pumps out around 650 HP. One of his other engines dynoed pumped out that at the rear wheels. He will get this one dynoed as well.
 
say canadian bum :

be interesting to know EGT's with such an increase in pressure - and how much fuel oil increase to compensate

of course my concern would be - longevity of rings/ valves / head gasket and head bolts

cheers:
 
So what happened with this any updates? I don't see why these engines have a tough time making horsepower.

General opinion is that the stock turbo is only good for around 15psi. I ran one to 22psi, but I reckon after about 18psi it wasnt happy. it completely shat itself at 22psi (rebuild time:doh:)

In Oz, not too many blokes spend the money on aftermarket turbo upgrades for these engines

Without mods, the fuel pump reduces fuel delivery at around 15psi too which creates another obstacle to high boost/high horsepower.
 
Say mudgudgeon :

Be interested to define - " Shat itself " - seals , bearings or turbine vanes ?- all?

I would imagine second hand turbos would be less pennies there -in your land having so many diesels ?

Good New Year

cheers:
 
General opinion is that the stock turbo is only good for around 15psi. I ran one to 22psi, but I reckon after about 18psi it wasnt happy. it completely shat itself at 22psi (rebuild time:doh:)

In Oz, not too many blokes spend the money on aftermarket turbo upgrades for these engines

Without mods, the fuel pump reduces fuel delivery at around 15psi too which creates another obstacle to high boost/high horsepower.

Yeah I know that these turbos kind of suck. What mods do you have to do to the injection pump? Actually what I am more interested in is where do you get the parts for the pump mods?
 
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