LX450 Monstaliner & body work build thread

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Are going to pull your headliner and remove the lower tracks that the rack mounts too? I was tossing around the idea of doing so but makes for a handful more holes to weld.
 
Did you consider grabbing used doors & front fenders to avoid the welding?

I did, the cost was way more than I wanted to spent. I also wanted the practice and have a new experience working with body metal.

The fenders are pie cut, just needed to clean them up. I'm considering the kutsnake fender flares after liner too. KUT SNAKE AUSTRALIA
 
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Are going to pull your headliner and remove the lower tracks that the rack mounts too? I was tossing around the idea of doing so but makes for a handful more holes to weld.

Headline has to be pulled out partially to get out some dents in the roof ....scars from a low branch. I really don't want to remove the entire thing or weld more holes. I may just line them. I plan to either install a Pinsu rack or make my own.
 
PS corner is rebuild about 5" higher up. I decided against plate. I'm going to build armor from the frame and bumper. This let me keep a more factory look with the extra clearance.

Merry Christmas everybody!
:santa:

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Took a break from the body to do some bling... all the chrome will get this same coating. My awesome wife got this teq badge along with some fj40 badges for me.

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Quarter panels are done and all trim holes are smooth. ...next step is fixing roof dents and the newly discovered rust around the windshield. ...in other words popping out the windshield, cleaning, patching and installing a new one. Uhhhggg

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Coming along great!
 
I wouldn't do any less than two kits (8 bottles). Also, either save one bottle aside or grab one spare. When you get all done and its cured you will see something you missed (probably the next morning or day after when your driving it). When you get your tint tell them you just need a urethane based tint with no binders. Aside from not needing the binder it should make it cheaper.
When I am going to spray a bunch of raptor, I have been pouring the material out of the 4 plastic bottles, trying to get everything out, into a gallon plastic container. Then i add the color base, then the hardener. Mix it up really good, then pour it into one of the empty small containers. When you get low, refill from the gallon. Cover the gallon, when you are not using it to refill.

I found that since you are mixing them all the same now and you are not relying on a shake mixing, you gain several things:

1. much easier to mix the gallon than mixing in a small jug.
2. much less waste, as typically the suction tube cannot get the last cup of material.
3. better ability to mix it all up.
4. color matching should be perfect as you are doing only one measure/mix
5. your arm will not be numb after all the shaking.

having said all that, there is one negative and that is open time. Make sure you have the ability to spray all that material during the open time. I find no problem to spray 4 quarts. Not sure if I have ever sprayed more than that at once. I might enlist the help of a second sprayer if I went that much.

Going back to product selection, I have found that raptor dries harder than mostaliner. I have liked the flex that monstaliner has taken in abuse and not chipped off. I have laid down raptor for undercoating, and for interior floors, but never for the outside of vehicles, so I really can't honestly give advice to how it works for a wheeling rig.

I agree with Half K that the texture on monstaliner can be very bad. I just laid down monstaliner this fall on my doors with great success. I thinned the material some, per the OLD instructions, and it was much cooler, allowing more open time. I am really happy with the outcome.

Should be pictures on the monstaliner forum or on my FOO thread.

Anyway, good luck, and you are doing some impressive cancer removal.
 
@2fpower I like the idea of mixing it all in one container. As quickly as the raptor liner goes on with the shutz gun I think that's the way I will do it next time. Pot life was pretty good when I did mine back in October. I'm thinking maybe a paddle bit on a drill to get it all mixed up.
 
This is what I found works best. Home Depot. Cleans up easy too. I typically cut a piece of cardboard big enough to go over the gallon tub, then poke a hole in the middle (keeps down the mess) and stir with drill.
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A couple projects back I did a lowered 72 C10 pickup. It was gloss black and I didn't do the fotina that I wanted. I started thinking about a patina paint job on my 80! It already has plenty of "character" already and a contrasting over coat with the metallic champagne underneath would look rad.

Thoughts? ...not that it'll sway me, its my art! ✌
 
I'm not sure about patina, but seeing as I have yet to do my raptor lining and a boat load of other work I'm excited/curious to see how your raptor liner comes out. I talked to the chemists at u-pol and was assured it can be sprayed over monstaliner if prepped properly and that it can be sprayed on nearly flat...to a light orange like texture. Hoping to just repaint my cruiser with raptor and get a a close to factory paint look as possible. Great work so far, keep it going.
 
I've gone a different direction... since I offfroad this rig a good bit and I don't have compressor good enough to spray raptor. ....and I'm now in a hurry to wrap this up. ...oh, and since I want to be able to touch up scratches easy and cheap I decided to use Rustoleum Berliner on the lower half and get the factory metallic cashmere pink panty color in rattle cans for the top...

The snorkels back on, fenders are welded up and the front end is done ...with the exception of the factory paint respray up top.

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