- Thread starter
- #21
I don't actually own one... In case that weren't intuitively obvious by now. But, if I did... It would be this bad mofo right herrrr..
LX450 Monstaliner & body work build thread
- Thread starter jbatx
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- fzj80 lx450 monstaliner
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- Thread starter
- #22
Sooo, anyway... After reading a bit more on some hotrod and restomod forums I decide to change up the products I'm using and get serious about rust, longevity and quality. I was already planning to switch from the rustoleum undercoating to por15 after some advice from @Kernal.
I have the following stuff on order..
1. Transtar Amber: for the insides of the rockers and front fenders because I can't adequately reach with por15. This stuff stays tacky forever and works real well for hidden areas where you need material to flow into hard to reach spots.
2. TCI c-18 solvent: for pre primer (post weld and grind) and pre Monstaliner cleaning of the entire surface.
3. 80mil Noico foil/butyl rubber sound and vibration damping: for the doors.
4. Por15: for the inside of the doors and anywhere else I need to protect bare metal from rust.
5. Dominion Sure Seal one step high build self etching primer: This will replace the cheapo high build primer I have. Basically, I can seal up and prep the welds and blend the area without filler. less work!
I have the following stuff on order..
1. Transtar Amber: for the insides of the rockers and front fenders because I can't adequately reach with por15. This stuff stays tacky forever and works real well for hidden areas where you need material to flow into hard to reach spots.
2. TCI c-18 solvent: for pre primer (post weld and grind) and pre Monstaliner cleaning of the entire surface.
3. 80mil Noico foil/butyl rubber sound and vibration damping: for the doors.
4. Por15: for the inside of the doors and anywhere else I need to protect bare metal from rust.
5. Dominion Sure Seal one step high build self etching primer: This will replace the cheapo high build primer I have. Basically, I can seal up and prep the welds and blend the area without filler. less work!
I like it. Considering a monstaliner on my '91. I'll be watching ur progress.
nice work, be conscious of the other side of those flaring holes when welding. I was not and almost burned through my harness in the fender location. Luckily no harm done.
- Thread starter
- #25
Good advise, thanks.
- Thread starter
- #26
The Transtar Amber came in today. I applied it to the weld inside the fender. Not in the wheel well, mind you. I also applied it inside the DS rocker.
This is interesting stuff. It smells like it will give you all sorts of neurological damage and it takes a long time to stop smelling. I applied it this morning around 10. Nearly 8 hours later and can still smell it from a few feet away. ...good thing it's not too hot anymore because I'll be driving with the windows down for a while!!
Needless to say, I will be using por15 for anything inside the cab and Amber on exterior only!
This is interesting stuff. It smells like it will give you all sorts of neurological damage and it takes a long time to stop smelling. I applied it this morning around 10. Nearly 8 hours later and can still smell it from a few feet away. ...good thing it's not too hot anymore because I'll be driving with the windows down for a while!!
Needless to say, I will be using por15 for anything inside the cab and Amber on exterior only!
- Thread starter
- #27
The Tanstar Amber cured and stopped smelling after about 10 days. It dries to a soft rubbery/waxy consistency. I'm impressed with it so far.
I made a little more progress today on the DS quarter panel. This area is full of peril! The harness for the rear lights will get burned if you don't shield it well. Also, you are right next to the gas filler. I made sure the gas cap was tight and shielded the weld area with sheet metal and cardboard. Low voltage and wire feed, spot spot, wait.. keeping the heat way down
I made a little more progress today on the DS quarter panel. This area is full of peril! The harness for the rear lights will get burned if you don't shield it well. Also, you are right next to the gas filler. I made sure the gas cap was tight and shielded the weld area with sheet metal and cardboard. Low voltage and wire feed, spot spot, wait.. keeping the heat way down
- Thread starter
- #28
Regarding the Dominion One Step, it is definately superior to the Rustoleum builder primer. Easier for the DIY garage builder to get great coverage and fill in.
- Thread starter
- #29
Finished the inside and out of the DS quarter this morning. I decided to use Amber lightly on the insides and installed another sheet Noico 80mil sound damping material. She's going feel solid quiet as a library!
- Thread starter
- #30
I "shaved" the factory antenna hole today.
- Thread starter
- #31
Finally!! All the trim holes are patched!
No ...more. ....hole!!!
I found more car cancer behind the passenger rear tire... it wasn't salvageable and I had already been thinking about chopping about 5" off the rear quarter panels. I've bumped them a couple times while crawling. Well, decision made! The remove metal will be replaced with 3/16 plate.
No ...more. ....hole!!!
I found more car cancer behind the passenger rear tire... it wasn't salvageable and I had already been thinking about chopping about 5" off the rear quarter panels. I've bumped them a couple times while crawling. Well, decision made! The remove metal will be replaced with 3/16 plate.
- Thread starter
- #32
DS and tailgate filled, leveled, sanded and primed. I'm pickin up momentum now and feel like I'll be done before January is over... long road
@jbatx did you already purchase the monstaliner ? Are you absolutely set on it ?
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- #34
No, not yet. I like it more than the other products I've only read about. Why?
You might give a look at Upol Raptor. You can coat your whole truck plus the inside of the fender wells with 2 gallons. Sprayed on with there Schutz gun, I think the result is much more professional looking. I have seen several Monstaliner jobs and the texture just looks off. The raptor can give you a much finer, and way more consistent finish.
Also, if you like your factory color, it is very easy to get a quart of tint and combine it with the raptor. That way all of your door jambs and your door handles will be matching. I did 045 Toyota white on my truck in order to match its factory paint. You cannot tell its lined until you are within ten feet of it. I constantly have people giving it a double take when they realize its lined.
I did similar to you and fixed all of my fender holes and body damage before I lined. Since I went to the effort to make sure everything was straight I really didn't want my truck looking like it had some off the shelf liner rolled on it. The last two pages of my build thread below has pictures of the liner job I did if you are interested. Anyhow, just another idea for you. Looks like your doing some pretty nice work so far.
- Thread starter
- #36
I'll definitely give it a look. I haven't been keen on the roller look myself.
- Thread starter
- #37
I think I'm sold on raptor now. How many of those bottles would I need?
I'll be tinting with Toyota 4m9 (lx450 beige metalic) or 4v6 (2016 Tacoma quicksand).
I'll be tinting with Toyota 4m9 (lx450 beige metalic) or 4v6 (2016 Tacoma quicksand).
I'm in the process of doing the same thing to my 95 FJ. are you planning to remove the trim that goes over the drip gutter that runs along the roofline or are you just monstalining over it? Seems to me that piece could be removed and tossed anyways, especially if gutter is going to be protected with a liner.
- Thread starter
- #39
I removed the chrome drip rail strips shortly after getting the trucks. I'm also removing the remaining parts of the rack.
I wouldn't do any less than two kits (8 bottles). Also, either save one bottle aside or grab one spare. When you get all done and its cured you will see something you missed (probably the next morning or day after when your driving it). When you get your tint tell them you just need a urethane based tint with no binders. Aside from not needing the binder it should make it cheaper.