Lucy Landcruiser - BJ42 LX
- Thread starter dancar
- Start date
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x2 !
I was convinced the pick up was reading off a magnet press - fitted into the flywheel.For some reason I even seem to recall seeing the pin-like object at a stage
And I take it your Tacho is OEM Theo?
If so, perhaps Toyota used two different types then?
My info (concerning how they operate) comes from the 60-series introduction in 1980 (as I mentioned) and it seems sensible to assume they used the same technology for those few 40-series models that got tachos during the same period.
(And I do recall threads in the past where people were checking their flywheel tooth counts for the purposes of installing tachos on non-LX BJ42s.)
EDit: And I just checked to find the BJ42 and BJ60 use the same pickup/sender...
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Yep it is/was/still is Tom although it now reads directly of the Spitronics ECU (crank sensor IIRC) up to 7000 rpm thanks to some re-calibration and a new face plate sticker.
The old 3b with flywheel has gone back to Aussie to be installed in a BJ 70 that belongs to a friend's student son.
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- Thread starter
- #65
Hi All,
After a bit of a sabbatical.... which was spent plastering, painting and tiling, I got back under the LX last night.
I managed to get the push rod removed from the slave cylinder and then cleaned it up so that I could adjust it to the shortest length and re-installed, now just need to bleed the clutch.
I also got the opportunity to remove the solid front brake line (runs on top of the passenger side and down to the axle) which was squashed by the engine mount when I was trying to line everything up. I took it into the local brake shop and they made up a new line in 10 minutes and it cost me $10, I will re-install that one tonight.
Finally got to run the return fuel line, I used 6.5mm hose as a temporary measure, while I wait for a BJ to turn up in the wreckers. I plan on using the same solid line and clamp the two together and then use the fuel hose for the shorter run across the tank.
The only other thing to organise is the bottom radiator hose - having a look at a 60 series setup, it may be worthwhile investigating that as an option. I'll post up pics soon so you can provide comment.
Dan
After a bit of a sabbatical.... which was spent plastering, painting and tiling, I got back under the LX last night.
I managed to get the push rod removed from the slave cylinder and then cleaned it up so that I could adjust it to the shortest length and re-installed, now just need to bleed the clutch.
I also got the opportunity to remove the solid front brake line (runs on top of the passenger side and down to the axle) which was squashed by the engine mount when I was trying to line everything up. I took it into the local brake shop and they made up a new line in 10 minutes and it cost me $10, I will re-install that one tonight.
Finally got to run the return fuel line, I used 6.5mm hose as a temporary measure, while I wait for a BJ to turn up in the wreckers. I plan on using the same solid line and clamp the two together and then use the fuel hose for the shorter run across the tank.
The only other thing to organise is the bottom radiator hose - having a look at a 60 series setup, it may be worthwhile investigating that as an option. I'll post up pics soon so you can provide comment.
Dan
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- Thread starter
- #66
Squashed brake line
- Thread starter
- #67
Found a good radiator diagram on this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/522426-f-radiator-b.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/522426-f-radiator-b.html
- Thread starter
- #68
dancar said:
New line installed
That line looks good. I used that place on the Parade for my brake hose, but they are gone. Who did you use for that piping?
Let me know if you need a new slave or master cyl - they are about 1/4 the price from Toyota here.
Josh
Let me know if you need a new slave or master cyl - they are about 1/4 the price from Toyota here.
Josh
- Thread starter
- #70
There's a place on Sturt st in the city. They've helped me out a couple of times.
I know I'm getting ahead of myself, but I've put on the new rims while I'm waiting for a solution to the lower radiator hose.
Old vs new
Excuse the raised white
Profile
I know I'm getting ahead of myself, but I've put on the new rims while I'm waiting for a solution to the lower radiator hose.
Old vs new
Excuse the raised white
Profile
- Thread starter
- #71
Forgot to mention
15x8 Delta Hurricanes
Australian Made
Similar to Cheviot Hurricanes
15x8 Delta Hurricanes
Australian Made
Similar to Cheviot Hurricanes
- Thread starter
- #72
Using the following to measure the lower radiator hose.
Hopefully will be able to take this down to the local shop and see what we can come up with - then order the parts.
Water pump
Lower radiator
Hopefully will be able to take this down to the local shop and see what we can come up with - then order the parts.
Water pump
Lower radiator
Hi Dan, sorry hope this isn't too late I was intending to get a picture posted before I left but didn't get to it.
I used the stock hose from the water pump but angled/rotated it up to clear the Powersteering pump, I then cut it to size and used a joiner to connect it to the hose that goes to the bottom of the radiator, the hose that goes to the bottom of the radiator is actually a top radiator hose cut to size.
Not sure if this will suit your rig as I don't have a radiator shroud to get in the way. I also noticed that your fan sits outside the shroud, there is an extension piece used on the 3B(or mine had one at least) that spaces the fan forward so it sits in the shroud.
Let me know if you need help with anything else (I'll try and pull my finger out and get back to you faster this time).
I used the stock hose from the water pump but angled/rotated it up to clear the Powersteering pump, I then cut it to size and used a joiner to connect it to the hose that goes to the bottom of the radiator, the hose that goes to the bottom of the radiator is actually a top radiator hose cut to size.
Not sure if this will suit your rig as I don't have a radiator shroud to get in the way. I also noticed that your fan sits outside the shroud, there is an extension piece used on the 3B(or mine had one at least) that spaces the fan forward so it sits in the shroud.
Let me know if you need help with anything else (I'll try and pull my finger out and get back to you faster this time).
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x 2 on the fan extension piece if you can.
- Thread starter
- #75
Bee-Jay, Cult,
Thanks for the reminder. I was going to look at that the other night. I went out tonight and have swapped it over now, the fan sits inside the shroud now.
I haven't bolted any of the radiator up yet, as I'm trying to reduce the amount of work. Having said that, I'm now searching MUD for photos of the A/C compressor mount - might as well bolt that up while I have easy access to the side of the block.
That also means another look at the 3b so I can grab the crank pulley and idle pulley.
Thanks for the reminder. I was going to look at that the other night. I went out tonight and have swapped it over now, the fan sits inside the shroud now.
I haven't bolted any of the radiator up yet, as I'm trying to reduce the amount of work. Having said that, I'm now searching MUD for photos of the A/C compressor mount - might as well bolt that up while I have easy access to the side of the block.
That also means another look at the 3b so I can grab the crank pulley and idle pulley.
That is a really good idea with the dryer hose.
- Thread starter
- #77
After having a look at a photo of a mates bj73 being pulled apart, I noticed the lower radiator hose.
So I went off to the shop today, and found it in the catalogue; should have it in my hands tomorrow and then try to mate it up to a second hose.
So I went off to the shop today, and found it in the catalogue; should have it in my hands tomorrow and then try to mate it up to a second hose.
- Thread starter
- #78
Alternator with Internal Regulator
Ok - so the good news is that I have finally got the lower radiator hose sorted out. I needed to use the CH1925 hose above and chop it in half and then use the standard lower hose from the 3b and then join them together. While this is not optimal, it means that I can buy replacements off the shelf and have some for spares.
So tonight I was able to fill up the radiator and start up the engine and let it run for a while. It doesnt have the exhaust bolted up yet, but it sounds good and runs smooth.
Now I have found that I have an alternator with an internal regulator - I'm not using the external regulator and gear driven vacuum pump on the old alternator, so my question is, can I directly wire up the at the plug where the external regulator is mounted on the firewall?
w/o IC reg:
The three wires should trace directly to the external regulator (to 3 of the 6 pins)
Assignments:
N = Neutral (Colour usually white w/ light blue trace)
F = Field (Colour usually white w/ green trace)
E = Earth (colour usually white w/ black trace)
w/ IC reg:
The three wires will trace separately to different locations, depending on their assignment.
Assignments:
IG = Ignition (traces to the load side of the Engine fuse) Colour usually black w/ yellow trace
L = Load (traces to the load side of the Charge fuse, and powers the charge light relay coil) Colour usually yellow w/ white trace
S = Switch (traces to the ignition switch)
Will it be possible to use the existing wiring loom, my thoughts are that I can connect:
N to IG
F to S (Accessories)
E to L
Ok - so the good news is that I have finally got the lower radiator hose sorted out. I needed to use the CH1925 hose above and chop it in half and then use the standard lower hose from the 3b and then join them together. While this is not optimal, it means that I can buy replacements off the shelf and have some for spares.
So tonight I was able to fill up the radiator and start up the engine and let it run for a while. It doesnt have the exhaust bolted up yet, but it sounds good and runs smooth.
Now I have found that I have an alternator with an internal regulator - I'm not using the external regulator and gear driven vacuum pump on the old alternator, so my question is, can I directly wire up the at the plug where the external regulator is mounted on the firewall?
w/o IC reg:
The three wires should trace directly to the external regulator (to 3 of the 6 pins)
Assignments:
N = Neutral (Colour usually white w/ light blue trace)
F = Field (Colour usually white w/ green trace)
E = Earth (colour usually white w/ black trace)
w/ IC reg:
The three wires will trace separately to different locations, depending on their assignment.
Assignments:
IG = Ignition (traces to the load side of the Engine fuse) Colour usually black w/ yellow trace
L = Load (traces to the load side of the Charge fuse, and powers the charge light relay coil) Colour usually yellow w/ white trace
S = Switch (traces to the ignition switch)
Will it be possible to use the existing wiring loom, my thoughts are that I can connect:
N to IG
F to S (Accessories)
E to L
That's exactly how we did it years ago when I put an 86 2g into a 72 FJ 40. One of the wires is an exciter, but I don't recall which. It is one which is hot when ignition is 'on' rather than 'acc'.
What will you do for vacuum?
What will you do for vacuum?
- Thread starter
- #80
Ok - must have missed something in engine swap 101.....
I have bled the clutch - filled the radiator and then fired it up to move out of the shed and (hopefully) off to get the exhaust.
BUT....
It doesn't move - I put it in gear and there is no forward or reverse. Jumped out and tried to adjust the clutch all the way in and then all the way out, but it only makes the clutch pedal heavy/soft.
Turn the engine off, leave it in gear, can push it forward and back - ok something is not quite right here, but what did I miss?
Would appreciate any pointers, and how to resolve. Pulling the motor out is something that I'm not really able to do easily.... perhaps if I need to, I can pull the transmission?
cheers.....
I have bled the clutch - filled the radiator and then fired it up to move out of the shed and (hopefully) off to get the exhaust.
BUT....
It doesn't move - I put it in gear and there is no forward or reverse. Jumped out and tried to adjust the clutch all the way in and then all the way out, but it only makes the clutch pedal heavy/soft.
Turn the engine off, leave it in gear, can push it forward and back - ok something is not quite right here, but what did I miss?
Would appreciate any pointers, and how to resolve. Pulling the motor out is something that I'm not really able to do easily.... perhaps if I need to, I can pull the transmission?
cheers.....