That line is for your fuel cut solenoid (basically your on/off switch for your engine, you will need to find key power somewhere to power it (power on and the engine will run, power off an the engine will stop), from memory I used the power wire that fed the EDIC controller since I no longer needed it. If the engine has come from a 24V vehicle you will need to replace the solenoid with a 12V solenoid.
Lucy Landcruiser - BJ42 LX
- Thread starter dancar
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- #42
Thanks mate, i thought that is what it was for - i was going to use the wiring at the EDIC also. Can you check/confirm if I need two or three, I think that there was a third wire connected, but it came out when I tried to disconnect the plug a couple of days ago.
Thanks
Dan
You will only need the one key power wire and that goes to the solenoid wire which is under that rubber boot, the other two wires on the pump are for a speed sensor which is was used by a tacho from the original donor vehicle so you don't have to worry about them (that's what my pump was like anyway).
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- #44
Thanks mate, so I might take the connector off and just put 12V (ignition) direct to the solenoid.
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- #45
Just a quick thought - would the tacho sensor work for the original BJ42 tacho? Might be something to look at later down the track.
The original tacho out of a BJ42 won't work (sorry), it picks up from a sensor in the fly wheel housing which is a different size and runs at half the speed of the pump. The good news is that a tacho from anything that runs the same basic denso rotary injector pump will work, the bad news is that (from memory) if you want to use the sensor you will have to remove the injector pump to replace the sensor if you have broken the wires on it.
- Thread starter
- #47
Got the battery charged and in temporarily - engine cranks
So now I just have to organise the following:
So now I just have to organise the following:
- Wiring for fuel solenoid
- Bottom radiator hose
- clutch rod
- Return fuel line, and
- Replacement front brake line (squashed when lowering the engine)
I have not done this, but having looked at a few BJ74 FRPs with a thought to taking their motors for Lexie, what about using a BJ74 bell housing/flywheel to powe the tach? Alternatively, what about using a tach from a Coaster fitted with a 14B and then fitting that to your housing?
I fitted my 2F tach to my BJ42 tach housing using Teabag's thread on modifying the tach and I am pretty sure you could to a similar thing using the Coaster tach, no?
Josh
- Thread starter
- #49
Josh,
I'm going to see if the 42 tachometer works, as I still have the sensor in the bell housing. However it only ever worked intermittently, which could have been a bad ground and or bad connection.
Will see how it goes - should have it running in the next couple of days, I did fall into the inspection pit last night, took a whole heap of bark off my leg (I think I have rubber bones as it didn't break).
Dan
I'm going to see if the 42 tachometer works, as I still have the sensor in the bell housing. However it only ever worked intermittently, which could have been a bad ground and or bad connection.
Will see how it goes - should have it running in the next couple of days, I did fall into the inspection pit last night, took a whole heap of bark off my leg (I think I have rubber bones as it didn't break).
Dan
Jesus, glad you are alright! A 6' fall could kill a lesser man.
I think (if memory serves from my 2H) that there is something attached to the flywheel which the sensor in your bellhousing 'senses' as it rotates by, counting the revolutions at one per revolution. Seems to me that if you could drill/tap your 14b bell housding in the right spot and install the sensor, and then attach the unit on your 14b flywheel which was on our 3b flywheel, you would have lift off.....simple, right?
Josh
I think it works off the ring gear teeth Josh.
Well at least the tacho Toyota introduced in 1980 with the 60-series definitely does.
If so, it'll be out of callibration if the teeth numbers are different.
I think it works off the ring gear teeth Josh.
Well at least the tacho Toyota introduced in 1980 with the 60-series definitely does.
If so, it'll be out of callibration if the teeth numbers are different.
If Tom says it to be so, then I believe it is so. Sorry, I could have sworn that I had something on my flywheel with my 2H, but now that you say that, I reckon that is exactly right - works off the teeth on the flywheel.
Given your starter did not work with the new flywheel, Dan, I wonder whether the number of teeth are different? Too late to count them side by side?
3B in a BJ42 apparently has 110 teeth on the flywheel.
14B in a Dyna or whatever is apparently the same so we're all good.
(I just checked.)
3B in a BJ42 apparently has 110 teeth on the flywheel.
14B in a Dyna or whatever is apparently the same so we're all good.
(I just checked.)
What would Mud do without you, Tom? It's good to have an insomniac Cruiser Head somewhere in the world.
Josh
What would Mud do without you, Tom? It's good to have an insomniac Cruiser Head somewhere in the world.
Josh
Insomniac! It's 9am in the morning here and I should be eating breakfast rather than typing away here really ........
- Thread starter
- #56
It's time for a quick update;
The backing plate on the 14B is different to the old one on the 3B, I could not swap the two over, so I left it as is, and have had to address a few issues as i found them.
I ended up drilling through the backing plate and then using the grinding wheel and cutting disk on the dremel, I elongated the hole to match up to the bell housing.
The 14B starter motor had one bolt snapped off. I don't have any reverse drill bits yet, so I opted to work out the issues with mounting the 3B starter.
The other thing I noticed was that the other hole on the 14B was threaded - this wouldnt work on the H41 transmission, as the hole that aligns with is also threaded. This lead me to think that it may have been done by the PO so that it would mate up to the Hilux bell housing.
The backing plate on the 14B is different to the old one on the 3B, I could not swap the two over, so I left it as is, and have had to address a few issues as i found them.
I ended up drilling through the backing plate and then using the grinding wheel and cutting disk on the dremel, I elongated the hole to match up to the bell housing.
The 14B starter motor had one bolt snapped off. I don't have any reverse drill bits yet, so I opted to work out the issues with mounting the 3B starter.
The other thing I noticed was that the other hole on the 14B was threaded - this wouldnt work on the H41 transmission, as the hole that aligns with is also threaded. This lead me to think that it may have been done by the PO so that it would mate up to the Hilux bell housing.
I...........The 14B starter motor had one bolt snapped off. I don't have any reverse drill bits yet, so I opted to work out the issues with mounting the 3B starter.
.......
Centre-punch it and then drill it out so the sidewalls are as thin as possible (without risk of taking away aluminium thread).
Then it should unscrew easily enough.
And here's some more info on the tacho courtesy of Toyota's publicity/training info when they introduced the 60-series in 1980:
- Thread starter
- #58
Thanks Tom,
You really are a wealth of knowledge.
If/when I get over to NZ for work, I'll take you out for
You really are a wealth of knowledge.
If/when I get over to NZ for work, I'll take you out for
....If/when I get over to NZ for work, I'll take you out for
That'd be cool Dan.
Hell. I thought the movement was all in your direction as far as jobs are concerned....
You obviously must be in a "niche area of work".
PS. I might just crack a beer right now. (And at least I can afford to have a beer or two because I got where I am during easy times when having the backing of family-wealth wasn't a necessity for achieving an acceptable lifestyle.)
Yip, that's why I moved back to the US-I couldn't afford a house and beer in Australia...it was one or the other 
Josh
Josh