Build Locked 94 FZJ80 Build

[SmokingRocks]

Monsta liner is sprayable. It's sans panties on top and Herculiner on bottom, I'd recommend steering clear of bed liner since it in fades and it has the grit in it that makes washing it tough.

 

[furryapples]

Please get to know the AMAZING local resources you have. First of all you have Onur right here in Atlanta for a few more months. He will be PRICELESS to you getting you the right parts for the right job. As a new owner his knowledge is priceless. Also Sam down at the dealership on the south side offers a price discount but it does not come with the advice and guidance you get from Onur. Also you have literally one of the best cruiser shops in the country here, ACC. They are not cheap but they are honest. They wont do work that does not need to be done. And what they do will be right. In the long run it will save you money. By know means am i a LC shop expert. But i would safely put ACC in the top ten best shops in the country! Trust me on using these people.

Leave the exterior as is for now. It loos good. Good move on stripping the interior. Concentrate on base line repairs and maintenance and use OEM parts. Do service as "big jobs" and do it all at once rather than several smaller jobs. What i mean is if you are going to replace brake roters do a full birfield job with new seals and wheel bearings. Probably rebuild the calipers and maybe go to the longer OEM brake lines. Just do it all at once or you WILL be in there several times.

One of my biggest pet peeves is new owners and the coolant system. After basic maintenance and fluids, replace the ENTIRE coolant system with OEM. Trust me, the head gasket issue are closely linked to engine temps. everything you have in there is 20 years old or questionable aftermarket. It will be a big bill but under $1000 or so. But it is so critical! If you dont do it now you WILL do it piece at a time.

Thanks for the tips. I've had ACC quote a couple jobs for me. I will probably use them if I'm ever in over my head but would like to do as much as possible myself. I've met a few local guys on the forums like TEQiddiot that have been helping me out.

I have all new seals/felts/wiper/bearings for the knuckle job. Also ordered extended brake lines from MAF. Had all the coolant flushed and replaced while it was in the shop for the new trans. I also have a PHH kit from wits end that I plan on doing soon. Anything else I should consider for baselining?

 

[furryapples]

Here's one for they guys saying leave the exterior as is for now...

Also here is the parts truck I picked up last week 135k miles with no title and no lockers but same year and color . The interior is in decent shape and this should help me out a lot with putting my truck back together.

 

[rc51kid]

Good move on the phh. But here is the thing. If the phh is old and in risk of failing so is every other coolant line. There is another one that is hard to access attached to the throttle body. But really, at least get a full OEM hose kit from someone like Onur. That way he will send you everyone you need and you don't spend time looking up each part number and then forgetting a small line some place. I think it cost me under 200 for every hose but that was a few years ago.

There are good threads about baselining. But consider all fluids, air filter, fuel filter, cap rotors plugs wires belts and fan clutch oil and thermostat with coolant hoses. Again stick with Toyota parts. They will last another 20 years and bolt right on.

 

[rc51kid]

Good move on the knuckle job. It is a big one so it is often never done on these trucks. If put off you will ruin the birfield joint.

 

[Red Merle]

I do like the painted look the best, but it is your truck and I know what you are saying about the fender flare holes. The monstaliner looks good too though and the point about not having to worry about the paint is valid.

Your parts truck look like a dandy. You shoud be able to get all sorts of good stuff off of that. Does the motor run? That alone is worth more than you paid for the whole truck if it does.

 

[furryapples]

I do like the painted look the best, but it is your truck and I know what you are saying about the fender flare holes. The monstaliner looks good too though and the point about not having to worry about the paint is valid.

Your parts truck look like a dandy. You shoud be able to get all sorts of good stuff off of that. Does the motor run? That alone is worth more than you paid for the whole truck if it does.

Motor runs great! Theres an exhaust leak at the cat but other than that I haven't noticed any major issues with it. I might take it out and keep it as a backup or just sell it. If the birfs weren't totally shot and it didn't have quarter panel damage I would consider fixing it up as a flip.

 

[SmokingRocks]

the best thing about a fully monstalined rig is that I can use the foam brush at the DIY car wash's and not worry about scratches. Cleans er up real fast.

 

[furryapples]

A few updates to the build from this past weekend. What started off as simply replacing the cats snowballed in to replacing most of the exhaust from the cats up to the head. When I started taking off the cats I noticed half of the exhaust bolt were missing due to bolts that had been snapped flush.

I already head new gaskets so I decided to take the manifolds and downpipes off of the parts truck and clean them up.

I also cleaned up a few other parts along the way...

Then, with new cats, O2 sensors, gaskets and all of the bolts/nuts in place I finally went to go see if I could pass the damn emissions test.

The guy behind me got inpatient and left since the test was taking forever. Since my truck is still OBD1 the emissions guy sat there and revved the crap out of it for like 30 mins while it was in park...

Andddd after all that she still didn't pass This time is pass for HC's (it failed on the last test) but failed again for the CO's. The truck did seem like it was idling a little high which leads me to think maybe its running rich or having vacuum issues somewhere. Also, after the test the check engine light came on. I haven't pulled codes yet but it was stalling on startup which I've seen it do before under vacuum leak.

Currently the truck is back at the mechanic that did the trans swap since I noticed ATF around the bottom of the bell housing. My service receipt shows that they replaced the rear main and input shaft seal when doing the swap but I don't know what else would be leaking right there...