Build Live in Texas, drive a pickup: HDJ79 single cab build

[bottombracket]

Next, we tried to find the 4 x 4 actuation switch. This is an R151 transmission harness. It is meant to work with a split case and an electrically switched, vacuum actuated BF1a split case. I grabbed a reverse light switch off of an H55 I had and plugged it into the first plug, thinking that grounding out that switch would activate the 4 x 4 light on the cluster.

It did not.

Grounding out the second plug activated some relay in the fuse panel somewhere that we could not directly identify.

I am running an HF1A T case with a full manual shifter. Any ideas on how to make the dash light light up?

Confusingly, the odometer and fuel gauges no longer activate. I have headlights, turn signals, hazard, and ammeter. The clock works on the instrument panel harness. The sub tank switch lights up on the dash and I can hear the solenoids act but the fuel gauges do not move.

We took the dash apart and confirmed that all three plugs were firmly seated in the cluster. I don’t know what I’m missing here.

 

[cruiserdan]

illegitimi non carborundum

 

[bottombracket]

All right, some more progress. @AlbertoSD sent me a real factory HZJ79 dual tank/tachometer cluster. I plugged it in and lo and behold, the odometer and trip odometer light right up.

Going back, when I built my homebrew cluster from parts, it turns out that I had used a HDJ79 circuit plate and gauges because that is what was available. I’m now finding out that the circuit plate is different in at least three places. It’s also possible that I burned my odometer out. I have Dave at Japan 4 x 4 looking for HZJ circuit plates and odometers. But it looks like the only thing he can find at the moment is an HDJ79 odometer and circuit plate and we are still running part numbers on HZJ odometer/trip computers.

Home assembled cluster at top, factory at the bottom.

 

[Broski]

Nice progress

 

[bottombracket]

Thanks @Broski. More stuff is happening.

Onto the matter of the injection pump:

@orangefj45 ‘s spare pump arrived, but the wires on top of the fuel solenoid valve had been cut short. Luckily the connector was easily identified as 90980–11165 and I have an Amazon pigtail on the way today. With very careful and judicious soldering and heat shrinking tubing we should be back in business. I’ve got about 4 mm to work with on the shortest side. I will be breaking out my 4.5 power surgical loupes today.

Until the pigtail gets here I’m going to start pulling the old injection pump off.

Also I tested the actuation of the fuel solenoid on the new pump and the old pump and confirmed that both wires are black and that there is no polarity for the solenoid. It just needs to get 12 V across it. Confirmed both with Mick in Australia as well as the EWD.

The new pump actuates with a snappy click, and the old one will actuate but it doesn’t sound happy, giving further credence to the fact that it’s probably all gummed up. That sucker was on there too tight to get off of the crescent wrench and I have a 38 mm socket and open-ended wrench arriving today to try to get the solenoid valve off to inspect for internal rust and fouling.

Denso part number is 098300-0250, they’re available but not cheap.

 

[bottombracket]

LABEL EVERYTHING.

I swear to goodness I make this picture every time I take injector lines off. This time I’m adding the reminder that the stay for the fuel overflow return line is the next to last thing off.

It’s nice to see that the factory dampening is still here and intact. Shows this motor was well kept.

 

[bottombracket]

I’m quite pleased that all the factory insulation is still there around the injection pump. It’s like going on a 20 year-old archaeological dig. Everything is bright and shiny underneath. I spent way too much time very carefully dissecting the foam off of the injection pump and block to preserve it.

I’m often told that hand surgeons operate on and fix tiny bones that regular doctors would just throw away. This tracks.

 

[bottombracket]

I got the fuel solenoid valve off of the original pump. No obvious source of gross contamination but time to swap out anyways.

It’s a 38mm wrench for future reference.

 

[bottombracket]

All the soldering stuff arrived from Amazon.

I had about 6 mm on the long side and 3mm on the short side and it was more than enough to make a good strong solder joint. Luke, 14, helped. And of course I wore 4.5x loupes.

 

[Broski]

Looks really clean

 

[bottombracket]

We also replaced the reverse switch connector from the R151 transmission harness with the correct H151 plug and pigtail that came with the transmission itself. More life skills for Luke.

Now we swap pumps.

 

[Linz]

off.

Really been enjoying the progress so far, your diagram will also be helpful as I’m about to throw some new injector lines on mine haha. I haven’t read through the early pages yet, but I’m sure it’s been mentioned by others but if you need any pictures or diagrams etc for locations of items etc going forward let me know I’m happy to help out as I have a HDJ79R

 

[Broski]

I’m assuming that’s you’re Son if so time spent wrenching with him priceless !!

 

[bottombracket]

@Linz thank you! I may indeed need help with harness routing pictures. Thanks in advance.

@Broski that is indeed my middle son! I can’t believe he didn’t want to go outside in the 95° heat and put the injection pump in after we soldered the solenoid valve pigtail on.

I got the injection pump in place but didn’t have time to do anything else.

 

[bottombracket]

Well, that is a bit of a lie. I did figure out which switch on the R151 harness is the 4WD switch. It is the switch with the h55 style connector. I will be able to extend this with a pigtail to the HF1A transfer case switch. Using an H55 reverse switch I was able to confirm that the four-wheel-drive light does come on the dash.

Strangely, and disappointingly, engaging the newly wired reverse switch to the H151 did NOT make the reverse lights come on the tail lights. I will have to chase that down at some point.

 

[OGBeno]

Nice work, Galen.

 

[bottombracket]

Actual tech tip:

The FTE pump is held in by four nuts, rather than two for every other 1Hx series.

The upper right/upper inner nut took exactly a 3 inch deep 12mm socket on a 6 inch extension and a 3/8 ratchet to access. The right lower nut was easily accessed by taking off the power steering pump and using a regular shorty 12mm socket.

This is probably only valid for keeping both the oil filter in place and the intake manifold in place. With either one of those two off, it would be much easier. Plus/minus a wobble socket or extension.

 

[bottombracket]

Swapped pumps and got it back together last night. Did it run?

Spoiler alert:

More to follow.

 

[bottombracket]

 

[77mustard40]

How awesome GMan!!