Build Live in Texas, drive a pickup: HDJ79 single cab build

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Ha. Now I’m redoing the vacuum line to use the factory brackets and hoses. It’s a little hard to see as the stick cowl harness and FTE harness are in the way.

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Armature wire courtesy of @RevISK.

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More betterer. God I hate and love OCD.

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Notchead tubing clamps are clutch. Thank you @c2dfj45 for pointing me towards them.

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Two steps assembly, one step disassembly. I figured it would be easier to take the hood and radiator support off to manage all the little things in the engine bay that still need to go back together.

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Next up is vacuum. Because this motor came from an HDJ100, it doesn’t have a large vacuum port for the brake booster. So I grabbed the separate union 90405–09142.

I figured the easiest thing to do would to just run a custom 3/8” Nicopp hard vacuum line from left to right and then use the stock, vacuum tubing, reservoir, etc. it’s a little bit hard to see here, but I’m routing it behind the front tubular crossmember.
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Did you not want to run it with the factory setup going up over the front of the engine?
 
@OGBeno no because I would’ve had to do timing belt and water pump to try to run the line across. Does the 1HZ hard vacuum line (44777-60630) work on an FTE?

The 79 series FTE equivalent is 4777–60351 and I didn’t have luck there.

So it seemed easier to just go under the motor then to try to go through its nose.
 
Dave, trust me, I thought about it. But rather than try to dissect the harness, or run a splice wire across the back for the vacuum gauge, I figured it was easier to build one hard line than reinvent the wheel. Plus, the left firewall is now crowded with engine harness stuff for the FTE.
 
Also it gave me a good chance to use the Parker 416. Good lord is that satisfying.

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I need some good OEM vacuum hose and OEM clamps. Making Amazon crap do for now.
 
I am using a HZJ79 power steering cooler. Popped a nutsert in to hold it in place.

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Today’s hijinks:

@fl4031003 came over to help and it was great to see him. I was hopeful that firing up the motor would be as easy as filling it up with oil and diesel and turning the key.

Yeah.

Nope.

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This was a lower km motor that had been in storage. I knew it needed a power steering pump and alternator but was otherwise complete. As we buttoned up the motor I knew I had to put the nuts on the power steering pump….and when I looked up realized that it was missing one stud and the other was stripped. After much cursing I got it out of the case/,

I had a couple other used timing cases but could not extricate the studs (15183-17020) safely.

Monroy and I dug around the shop and we found that the hexlobular studs from the exhaust side fit perfectly. 90126-10006.

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We measured the short threaded shank to ensure that the stud wouldn’t contact the timing case gears and installed them (they are E10). A feeler gauge passed easily on both sides and there was no impingement of the gears.

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I was missing the O-ring (90301-60002) so I had to swap the PS pump from my other FTE. Fudge.
 
We filled the motor, h151, and t case with their respective oils and here came the moment of truth.

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Jeff filmed. I turned the ignition key.

Crank….no start.

We had fuel all the way to the IP.

The pic above is for dramatic effect- I had the spill driver grounded on the body.

We cranked some more, and then either killed the battery or blew a relay in the engine harness.

Done for today.

After consulting with @AlbertoSD @c2dfj45 @davegonz and the crew it’s most likely air in the injector lines. It could also be that the body ground isn’t sufficient for the spill driver; I will run a ground straight to battery negative to test.

Back in a couple of days for more.
 
All right, went through an hour of diagnostics on the phone with Mick from Australia.

I checked every fuse in my fuse panel. I’ve got power going through his harness all the way to the ECU and also power to the spill driver. I’m definitely not getting fuel to the injection pump. Given that this motor sat in storage, it is possible that diesel evaporated and crapped everything up inside the pump. I’m going to pull the cap off the spill driver and look inside. I’ve got a line on a on a replacement injection pump if I need to go that far.

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Red wire is switched ignition power to the ECU. Yellow is constant +12V to ECU.

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More to come.
 
For reference, here is the HZJ79 fuse panel layout. Thank you @Spallet.

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All right, went through an hour of diagnostics on the phone with Mick from Australia.

I checked every fuse in my fuse panel. I’ve got power going through his harness all the way to the ECU and also power to the spill driver. I’m definitely not getting fuel to the injection pump. Given that this motor sat in storage, it is possible that diesel evaporated and crapped everything up inside the pump. I’m going to pull the cap off the spill driver and look inside. I’ve got a line on a on a replacement injection pump if I need to go that far.

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Red wire is switched ignition power to the ECU. Yellow is constant +12V to ECU.

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More to come.
Just like a surgeon 😁
 
Or just someone who sucks at electrical diagnostics.
 
Could the ECU have a security transponder?
 
@fl4031003 no, this is a 79 series manual transmission ECU. No immobilizer. It’s the simplest version of the FTE ECU and the one that is most applicable to a standalone harness. Mick is able to do an immobilizer delete for any of the hundred series early ECUs and possibly even the late ones now.

@orangefj45 once again saved the day, like he does for so many people. I’ve got a very low kilometer FTE injection pump on the way. Because Georg is freaking magic.
 
No diagnostics today. Amazingly I don’t have a crescent wrench big enough to get this spill valve cap off. With Amazon’s help one will be here tomorrow.

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Well, maybe we had a little diagnostics. @davegonz came over and we tried to get fuel flowing in the FTE. We failed. We then turned our attention to the wiring harness. I grabbed a tail light and hooked it in, and we confirmed that we have found the reverse light switch on the R151 harness. The H151 helpfully came with a pigtail attached so I will splice it in here. R151 switch on the left, H151 on the right.

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