Build Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap

[Mr Cimarron]

Cimm what are the details on the steel version of our accessory bracket? Did you reverse engineer it?

It’s just updated from the one we are using. The aluminum had leaking issues in cold. The new version keeps the Cummins water neck. Right now Joel is laser cutting new ones that I am waiting for. Should be around 5 weeks before I have one in hand for my new build.

 

[Dirty Koala]

It’s just updated from the one we are using. The aluminum had leaking issues in cold. The new version keeps the Cummins water neck. Right now Joel is laser cutting new ones that I am waiting for. Should be around 5 weeks before I have one in hand for my new build.

Sounds interesting. I haven't had any leaking issues..but steel is likely better. Who is Joel?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Sounds interesting. I haven't had any leaking issues..but steel is likely better. Who is Joel?

From Jonesy’s. I usually have a slight leak when below 20 degrees from the thermostat housing until the aluminum and metal warm up to temp. Doesn’t leak enough to add any coolant. I think I’m the only person that runs my tensioner up high which was also redesigned to add support. I have had a ghetto bolt in the block providing support.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Ah yes of course. My tensioner is down low. Post up some pics of the new accessory mount when you get it in.

 

[Will Van]

Most of us are using custom thermostat housing with water neck that matches Toyota. The accessory rail had the lower that matched Toyota. On my new build I am using an updated accessory rail that is all steal instead of aluminum. I will use reducer for upper hose.

The reducer is part of the accessory mount. I have two hoses with a coupler to make the turn. I’ll try to get some photos in the next few days.

Accessory Mounts and Brackets Archives - Adventure Vehicles NW

In this section we have Cummins B Series AC and Alternator components, brackets and accessory mounts for your Cummins diesel conversion.

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Thanks!

I was wondering what the OP was using since it appeared he had a Cummins OEM water outlet pipe and a Toyota OEM radiator. I was curious how he made that particular setup work.

I’m trying to stay away from Jonesy’s/Duiser/Diesel Adapters as much as possible, including the accessory mount and t-stat housing/outlet.

Thanks again!

 

[OLDTOYOMAN]

From Jonesy’s. I usually have a slight leak when below 20 degrees from the thermostat housing until the aluminum and metal warm up to temp. Doesn’t leak enough to add any coolant. I think I’m the only person that runs my tensioner up high which was also redesigned to add support. I have had a ghetto bolt in the block providing support.

Are they doing a one off for you or are they going to make enough that the rest of us might be able to get our hands on?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Are they doing a one off for you or are they going to make enough that the rest of us might be able to get our hands on?

No they are available to anyone. I posted the link to it above.

 

[mjosoba]

Man I can’t keep track of them nowadays. All the other sites are dead.

 

[Will Van]

Good day today, had a ton of small projects to get done and got most of them completed.

Started my taking my crank bumper and modifying it to create the 3 pulses per Rev the tack is looking for. The stock Cummins just has two notches at 12 and 6. So welded up 6 and made two more one at 4 and one at 8 giving me 3 evienly spaced notches.

...I was able to get the tach working with a different two wire sensor...

Why did you choose to use the Toyota tach sensor and modify the crank pulley? Would the OEM Cummins crank position sensor not work with the Toyota tach?

I'm debating just trying to use a Dakota Digital diesel tach adapter.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Why did you choose to use the Toyota tach sensor and modify the crank pulley? Would the OEM Cummins crank position sensor not work with the Toyota tach?

I'm debating just trying to use a Dakota Digital diesel tach adapter.

Even with the DD box you will need to pull the signal from somewhere using a sensor or W wire from alternator.

 

[Will Van]

Even with the DD box you will need to pull the signal from somewhere using a sensor or W wire from alternator.

Yessir, agreed. I guess my question is, can I use the DD box and pull the signal from the OEM Cummins sensor? That way I do not have to modify the crank pulley or fabricate a sensor bracket.

Edit: I am not using the Diesel Adapters fan bracket which would delete the space for the OEM Cummins crank sensor.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I think the DD box needs lots of teeth to count. I may be wrong about that. They do make tone rings to adapt to the balancer. Or start with a earlier solid 12v or 24v balancer (missing the two notches) and have it machined. I real ghetto way I have seen is using the four bolts that hold it on for the signal.

 

[Will Van]

I think the DD box needs lots of teeth to count. I may be wrong about that. They do make tone rings to adapt to the balancer. Or start with a earlier solid 12v or 24v balancer (missing the two notches) and have it machined. I real ghetto way I have seen is using the four bolts that hold it on for the signal.

I just got off the phone with Dakota Digital. Their diesel tach conversion box will work with teeth counts between 1 and 64. So it should work on the Cummins harmonic balancer (2 teeth).

The Dakota Digital calibration value (teeth count) is also listed in the instructions online (page 4; "Preset or Adjust"): http://www.dakotadigital.com/pdf/DSL-1E.pdf

I think the OP modified the Cummins crank so he didn't have to purchase a DD converter box. With the modified crank (3 teeth) it should work with the OEM Toyota sensor.

I think other Cummins swaps modify the sensor location because the Duiser/Diesel Adapters kit relocates the mechanical fan clutch, which deletes the location for the OEM Cummins crank sensor bracket.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Nice detective work.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Makes sense now. I think I have my DD set for x3 since the flywheel is 153. It’s been awhile since I set it.

 

[Will Van]

Makes sense now. I think I have my DD set for x3 since the flywheel is 153. It’s been awhile since I set it.

You have your engine speed sensor mounted at the flywheel?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

You have your engine speed sensor mounted at the flywheel?

Started with the W wire and then went to the flywheel when I swapped tranny out.

 

[Scotty3]

What have you done with clutch slave and master setup ?
I have fitted a 97 6bt into my 80 with nv4500 and stock dodge slave and cannot get enough stroke on the dodge slave from the small landcruiser master

 

[Wheelingnoob]

What have you done with clutch slave and master setup ?
I have fitted a 97 6bt into my 80 with nv4500 and stock dodge slave and cannot get enough stroke on the dodge slave from the small landcruiser master

I used the full Dodge master and slave assembly. I adapted the master to the Toyota fire wall.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I just got off the phone with Dakota Digital. Their diesel tach conversion box will work with teeth counts between 1 and 64. So it should work on the Cummins harmonic balancer (2 teeth).

The Dakota Digital calibration value (teeth count) is also listed in the instructions online (page 4; "Preset or Adjust"): http://www.dakotadigital.com/pdf/DSL-1E.pdf

I think the OP modified the Cummins crank so he didn't have to purchase a DD converter box. With the modified crank (3 teeth) it should work with the OEM Toyota sensor.

I think other Cummins swaps modify the sensor location because the Duiser/Diesel Adapters kit relocates the mechanical fan clutch, which deletes the location for the OEM Cummins crank sensor bracket.

Sorry for the delay, I thought this post thread was dead no notifications.

I did the 3 notch method as it was a simple mod with a welder and a grinding disc, used a simple two wire setup and has been total reliable with no boxes to program or wire in place.

After my Isuzu I wanted everything simple and easy to fix with no added controllers or computers.

It's worked great now for 3 years and 40k kms.