Just Got my 1st FJ40, but can't pass emissions and request input (1 Viewer)

Joined
Aug 7, 2018
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Gilbert, Arizona
Hey guys,

Just got my 1st FJ40 last week and couldn't pass emissions in Arizona, looking for your insight on how to best get my rig up to speed.

I have a 1975 2F Toyota Land Cruiser with a Weber carburetor, the air pump isn't hooked up (no belt connected). The hose from the engine to the air pump has a bolt blocking off the end of it, and the hose off the pump is cut and hanging free off the back side.

The vehicle came out of Washington where due to age was not required to pass emissions, but in Arizona it is required because it isn't older than 1967.

I know this can't be the first time this type of situation has come up, but am trying to go the right direction in getting my rig to pass emissions so I can get it registered.


My first thought is to take off the air pump and try and tune the carb so it isn't running too rich.

My second thought is to reconnect the air pump, and reroute the hoses thru the pump, carb and then back into the engine.

Your input is greatly appreciated, I am not a strong mechanic but figured this can't be an over the top excursion to take on.

What do you all recommend? Pro's Con's?

s-l64.jpg
 

brian

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if you need to pass emissions, take the weber off and throw it away.
i dont know if a nonusa oe carb will work or if you'll need to find and rebuild a 75 carb.
you may have a long road ahead of you tracing and replacing vacuum hoses as well as sourcing a fully operational air pump.
 
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^^ my question as well. Here in kalipornia we have to pass a "visual" test to see that all smog stuff is on it. You could be putting daisy scented unicorn breath out the pipe, but it will fail if it fails the visual . 1975 and older vehicles are exempt here.
 
Joined
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Gilbert, Arizona
if you need to pass emissions, take the weber off and throw it away.
i dont know if a nonusa oe carb will work or if you'll need to find and rebuild a 75 carb.
you may have a long road ahead of you tracing and replacing vacuum hoses as well as sourcing a fully operational air pump.


Thanks for your input, ideally I would like to have an original carb and air system, but am just trying to get it to pass so I can register it. I do have the original (I think) air pump it's just not connected, don't know it actually works.

S34
 

DSRTRDR

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make sure you have the engine properly heated up before you go into the station - I drive around for at least 45 minutes before I go (I just passed again in Scottsdale, '72 FJ40)

which of the values are over the limit ?
 

Dizzy

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Don't toss the Weber, they are good carbs to someone, and to a way more engines than just a F / 2F.

I have a small collection of smog stuff from a my two '75 motors. I really doubt that this stuff functions.

If you have ethanol blend in the tank, you might need to advance your timing, or lower your octane; it burns slower. The smog pump is supposed to deal with the CO. The EGR is supposed to address NO. And the computer, and Vacuum Control Valve, is supposed to remain shrouded in mystery.
 
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ToyotaMatt

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Hey guys,

Just got my 1st FJ40 last week and couldn't pass emissions in Arizona, looking for your insight on how to best get my rig up to speed.

I have a 1975 2F Toyota Land Cruiser with a Weber carburetor, the air pump isn't hooked up (no belt connected). The hose from the engine to the air pump has a bolt blocking off the end of it, and the hose off the pump is cut and hanging free off the back side.

The vehicle came out of Washington where due to age was not required to pass emissions, but in Arizona it is required because it isn't older than 1967.

I know this can't be the first time this type of situation has come up, but am trying to go the right direction in getting my rig to pass emissions so I can get it registered.


My first thought is to take off the air pump and try and tune the carb so it isn't running too rich.

My second thought is to reconnect the air pump, and reroute the hoses thru the pump, carb and then back into the engine.

Your input is greatly appreciated, I am not a strong mechanic but figured this can't be an over the top excursion to take on.

What do you all recommend? Pro's Con's?

s-l64.jpg

I 2nd @brian , Unbolt the Webber and toss it . All they do is dump gas down the

F/2F Intake Manifold like a 5 gallon bucket , and make 2F engines Run Rich

Its "Detroit Philosophy" and does not belong on a High Quality Low RPM Japanese Farm

Tractor Engine




This stuff works , I have used it on a late modle FJ40 & a FJ60 , both passed a tail pipe test

here is the state of Maryland

I did Double up The Recipe per the directions on the bottle

also , make sure your ignition Timing is Spot on the BB , that will make the most difference

also

Good Luck .....

index124.jpeg
 
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Joined
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Tucson
I’m in Tucson. Had similar issues when I first got my 40 except I passed tail pipe emmissions but failed the visual (Desmogged 2F with original carb).
I went to an “emissions” shop that rigged up a totally non functional air rail and got it to pass the visual...no idea how since power steering pump in place of air pump. Rather than rolling the dice every other year hoping to get someone clueless looking under the hood, I elected to get collector insurance. This allows you to skip testing but limits how and how much you drive the truck. At the very least, it will enable you to get registered while getting emissions reconnected (recommended, especially if gear is there).
 
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Paging LivingInThePast. John I think may have some meaningful input.

i'll page a bit louder... @Living in the Past


1st I'd start by hooking up the air pump because it sounds like it will need to pass a visual.

2nd I'd get an Asian carb and have it rebuilt by @65swb45 (Mark) or Jim C... if budet permits. Back in the day I rebuilt my own and they worked well enough, but I've never had to do smog. (Even in Calli I'd be fine since it's a '74). The only vehicle I've ever smogged was a '98 Durango when I lived in Tarana (Toronto) and I was somewhat sickened that it, a 14 year old truck that never had more than cap, plugs, and a rotor was putting out less than 1/4 of the alowable emmisions... they were clearly a cash grab and not really to actually reduce polution.

3rd make sure valves are adjusted, timing adjusted, and idle set.

4th go find a lucky horsh shoe.
 
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Joined
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19,780
I am no expert on emissions. The easiest way in AZ is to go the classic registration. Has limits but avoid emissions. Option B is register in a non-emission area. This is what I do but the vehicle are kept there so not cheating. Option C is buy a pre 67, since AZ goes back that far. I registered my 79 one year in Maricopa county. Took two trys. It has the factory carb, air pump and most the components but not all of them. One problem with a aftermarket carb is you loose the air cleaner and it's ports. Kind of hard to route hoses to ports that aren't there.

I have a 10/75 that is probably close to stock under the hood. Could take pictures for reference.
 

Racer65

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Just recently got into a argument at a California "STAR" station I always go to. The owner wasn't there and a new guy insisted on failing the car for missing the unobtainium heat insulator. The car passes smog with flying colors, and is one of the most smog compliant Cruisers out there. I've owned the car for 20 years and never has anyone picked on this part. These dumb rules have got to change.
 
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