Builds Joined the 40 club! 1970 FJ40 Frame off build... (1 Viewer)

[kcisland]

Man you guys are slipping bad. We are now up to 15 posts and not one single person has mentioned flipping the bezel. Not one official mud salute to the new member. I can’t believe it. This is total sacrilege.

Yes, I saw this. It will be fixed!

 

[73fj40lc]

I saw that right off...but being a newbie myself, I didn't want to be the one. It's amazing how many wind up this way. I figure there are plenty of other priority things to address on Keith's new 40 first...

Hey don’t be shy, just jump in and hit the ground running. In the old days the bezel police would have would already said it ten times by now.

 

[kcisland]

I missed it is this a 70 or a 71? I have a 70 in the same color. 71 had a brake booster and dual brake circuits.

it's a '70 but pretty sure it's not the original paint. Light blue under the hood and under the worn through spots on the body.

 

[RAYJON]

Low mileage 2f or a 3f with a carb, are your best bet.. $$wise spend the rest making it nice..

 

[White Stripe]

If the motor is shot go 2fe. The extra power n efi will make a better driver out of it.

 

[cruiserkev]

Thanks cruiserkev! Do you have a write up on your 2f swap? That would definitely be the best "middle" ground between rebuilding the F and doing a 350 swap. If i could find a reliable low mileage 2f I would be happy.

Spent all night reading on engine swaps, disc brake conversions...and getting the juices flowing. Today though will be spent on clearing out the shop to make a nice warm, dry space to tuck her into. Snowing/slushing today and i need to get her inside! Are you Lakewood, Tacoma or Lakewood Arlington?

Sorry no write up. I was in no state to document as I was doing this. Unfortunately work had to be done quickly and of course, I had no help. j
The new engine was just a block/head/valve cover/oil pan when I got it. I just swapped on all my 76 era accessories. Had to switch motor mounts to 40 series style but otherwise the engines are very similar and it was a very straightforward install.

I'm down in Pierce County and it's snowing here too.

 

[65swb45]

Pull the oil pan, check rod and mains BEFORE you fool around with the MMO. It could be the difference between straight con rods that need bearings and tossing the motor.

 

[kcisland]

Pull the oil pan, check rod and mains BEFORE you fool around with the MMO. It could be the difference between straight con rods that need bearings and tossing the motor.

Ok! Thanks for the starting point. Got her into the shop and will start tinkering this week.

 

[kcisland]

So this is how far i got this weekend. Snapped alot of bolts, especially in the roof to side panel connection. Need to pick up an easy out.

I would have got farther except two sticky points.

I couldn't get the wind shield hinge bolts off, those guys are stuck! I need to get an impact driver.

And I couldn't get the PTO shaft that goes through the frame off, those dang splines must be rusted in there.

 

[kcisland]

Just to be sure I'm headed in the right direction, this is where it should separate right?

 

[kcisland]

The pin sheared so the winch was never working. So is this supposed to be a "safety"? Shear a pin so nothing else more expensive get's ripped up? Seems like a weak link.

Man this thing weighs a ton. i want to keep it for nostalgia but the weight savings would be a lot.

 

[65swb45]

@a77fj40 , sounds familiar!

 

[kcisland]

On a cool side note, the front of the crank had the old hand crank part - who needs a starter?! Had a cheater bar on that and on the holes in the fly wheel but still couldn't get the engine to budge. Haven't pulled the oil pan yet but looks like a rebuild 2F is in order for the old 1F.

 

[RAYJON]

After you pull the pan if it looks ok,

Soak the pistons in marvel mystery oil or atf and acetone, for a week or so.. pull the plugs and fill each cylinder, let it soak.. fill again every couple of days... if it does break free work it back and forth slow.. you may just have stuck pistons anf rings..if you go to fast you may break a ring.


Good luck...

 

[RAYJON]

Ohh search rust removal on parts here, several guys on here have some great/easy ways to remove rust...

 

[RAYJON]

Just to be sure I'm headed in the right direction, this is where it should separate right?

View attachment 1573352

Heat.. red wrench... and a big hammer

 

[a77fj40]

What's a red wrench?

 

[RAYJON]

Acetylene torch, map gas works for smaller stuff, heat expands the outer metal breaking the rust bond, soaking in a rust penitent works just takes more time..

The goal is to heat the metal so it expands not melts....

 

[kcisland]

Acetylene torch, map gas works for smaller stuff, heat expands the outer metal breaking the rust bond, soaking in a rust penitent works just takes more time..

The goal is to heat the metal so it expands not melts....

Thanks for the advice RAYJON. Been soaking for now but grabbing a torch from work today!

 

[40Wanted]

Nice start! I could’ve missed it, but if it hasn’t been said, the windshield hinge screws are not a normal Phillips bit, they are a JIS spec screw head. A JIS bit will get a better/deeper grab & help keep from stripping the heads.

Mine were stuck solid but after a coulple days soaking with PB Blaster, some heat from a map gas torch and a JIS bit (got off Amazon) in an impact drill, they all came right out without breaking or stripping.

Another trick I found that worked well was to bump the bolt tighter first, then back it out, just one more trick to help loosen the rust bond.

Good luck and have fun!