Builds “It’s only a motor swap and an axle swap” FJ55, 2UZ, 5 speed, 80 axle build (3 Viewers)

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Got the stupid LX out of the shop and Her Piggieness back in the pen. More of a moral victory than anything else.

If i was a baller, I would have just ordered an engine for $2k, but I’m not, so I spent 3-4 days buying a wrecked truck, dragging it home, and parting it to get a “free” engine.

Like everyone else, trying to find a rhythm with everything shut down and the kids out of school until Aug. I think I got it worked out where I can come to shop a few hours a day without getting into too much trouble. Try to bring a kid to give ‘em some edumacatin.


Really to let the best engine Toyota ever built purrrr

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Had a solid hour of analysis paralysis today. Just stared at all the stuff in shop for my build, my customers build, the three trucks outside, and the 55 inside. Couldn’t decide what to do next because there are so many things to do, so I just wandered around and did nothing.

Want to get the drive train bolted together and set in Pig to look at body clearances, radiator clearance, drive line angled and such, and then make the body mounts and motor mounts once I see how it all fits.


So I finally broke down the two mini-truck cases, cleaned until I ran out of cleaning supplies, installed the 23spline goodies, and got it tested before supper time. Been a long time since I had cases like this apart.

My friend Ben Swain is the head sales guy/shop manager at Slee Offroad. He pushed all the Toyota stuff to its limits, and now has sold out and had a super nice, 700hp, all domestic/aftermarket Ultra4 car. BUT, back when he was cool, he had a all Toyota 2UZ, automatic, 23 spline cases, Diamond Axled 80-ish axles, and raced on 44” tires.

.....he ended up blowing it all to pieces, but I still think I’ll be ok with the old cases that came out behind 4cyl trucks.

Im not sure if it’s silly or not to have dual cases in an “overland” truck, but they are soooo nice offroad and will help with driveline angles I think too.

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2UZ with a clutch!! Woot woot! Going to be badass!

only waiting on the clutch fork to arrive to bolt it all together and see how she fits. Somehow it got missed in the last order.

The whole setup is about 17” longer than a H42 and split case. Will have to measure the 100 series trans/case tomorrow.

I have owned and wheeled multiple trucks that cost less than the shiny parts in these pics. The one in my avatar and where I was dubbed “TachedOut” as a matter of fact. It’s only money I guess. It is the dream build. People spend wayyyy more than this on those side by sides, harleys, or fishing boats.

NWToys 2UZ heavyweight flywheel
LC Engineering Dual Comp Clutch Kit
NWToys bellhousing
Marlin Crawler built R150F (1989 Hilux)
MC V6 trans to 23 spline gear case adapter
MC 23 spline input front case
MC dual case adapter
MC 23 spline input rear case

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Awesome build you have going. This is going to be one bad ass pig!

Quick question and maybe you already covered it and I missed it. Obviously you running the mini-truck transfer case with a centered output. Will you switch to a centered axle in the rear or stick with the offset 80 axle?
 
@Scheefdog

keeping 80 rear axle.
I don’t see the centered output and offset diff being an issue. It’s not really far offset, and if you think about it, there is a drop angle from the case to the diff on any truck. Same thing to me.

when I set it in there (tomorrow?) I’ll see how long the rear DS is. If it looks short/steep, I’ll put a double cardon in rear.
 
I “may” have had to pull the trans back off to put this spacer on behind the pilot bearing.
I “may” have had to build a slide hammer to get bearing out.
I “may” have had to pull the trans adapter off to press the collar in another 1/8”.
I “may” have wasted 2 hours doing this.
But maybe I didn’t!!


the 2UZ starter is in a odd location. It stays out of the way of mud, water, and exhaust, but you have to pull the intake to replace one. I went ahead and did it now when the engine was out. Saved a lot of cussing being on in a random parking lot in Alaska or Colorado. Still took me 1.5 hours. I “may” have dropped a bolt and had to pull the intake back off to get to it. But, maybe I didn’t either.


did a lot of measuring. Going to lose my cup holder for sure :frown: may be able to save center console.
motor mounts have to go back a solid 9”. Going to use the 80 frame mounts and motor mounts and modify the 2UZ motor side just a little.
Looks like I will a solid 3-4” between the fan and the radiator. It’s all coming together.....

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That is looooong looking setup you have there.

I had to replace the starter in my tundra camper when it failed on a trip to the North West. Not fun when you are not at home. It took me about 5 hours start to finish. Good plan on your part.
 
That is looooong looking setup you have there.

I had to replace the starter in my tundra camper when it failed on a trip to the North West. Not fun when you are not at home. It took me about 5 hours start to finish. Good plan on your part.

the starter was a pain with the engine out, be terrible with it in. It wasn’t that many bolts, just a ton of little stuff and dropping stuff in that V.

Dude it is long!
It’s 17”ish longer than a H42 and split case.
only 3” longer than a FJ80 trans and Tcase, not that it matters.

Supposed to fly tomorrow if WX is good, if its not, I’ll set it in truck. Burn in some mounts.
 
Issue with long drive train: trans tunnel is too short, going to have to lengthen it. Would require a 4“ body lift to fit as is.

Cool seeing motor in, even if it is floating.

trans shifter is pretty close to the old location.
the rear case shifter might be inside my center console.


new 80 motor mounts fit right into the 100 metal brackets on motor side. The 100 series frame side mounts were built into the IFS and not really salvageable.

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Moved the body up and down and forward and backwards and eng/cases forward and up and down and backwards while trying to get 1) drive line angles 2) eng/trans angle 3)balance body height relative to frame 4) oil filter/exhaust/eng mount access 5) case/body interference all right at the same time.

this caused for bouncing around from 1) in front of the truck/hoist 2) under truck/cases/jack 3) inside truck trans tunnel 4) lift controls

so I way over-thought it but finally found the best mix and tacked in the Front Range OffRoad Tcase mount. Motor mounts will go pretty quick now that the location is set and I have the old mounts to modify.

pretty much decided to run a high CFM electric fan on the stock radiator at first. If it’s not enough, I’ll get a bigger radiator. Electric fans have gotten pretty reliable and I think the low speed/ sitting in traffic cooling with AC on in AL heat will be nice.

Flying tomorrow. Still need to order a 55 patch from the museum!

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I also am going with electric fan in my 2uz FJ45 I am building. I am going with the volvo fan which is two speed controlled by temp sensor, easily found in junkyards.
 
No hoist!!! So happy. Moving right along. Everything fits just right everywhere. Cross member, skid plate, and motor mounts all burned in.

A little mini-sledge hammer love and the oil filter has room now🔨🔨

getting this big ass gas tank in and mounted will be fun and then most of the -heavy- lifting will be done.

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