INTERMITTENT NO START ISSUE (1 Viewer)

[Sean Karzai]

Hello ih8mud community, i know this probably is the 50th crank no start forum post but i really need help. 2000 Land Cruiser 100 Series - 297k miles. Since about 290k miles i’ve had the infamous crank no start issue. Happens a few times a week. Have scanned for codes multiple times/ None.

So far i’ve replaced
(All new from toyota)
ECU / New Key
Fuel Pump
Fuse Box assembly

At this point i’m ready to throw in the towel but figured i’d give the community a shout. Any ideas as to what may be left to troubleshoot.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[YotaWagon]

Might be worth heading down this route:

EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470

This bypass kit bypasses the bad EFI relay circuit in the fuse box so that the immobilizer system gets adequate power supply for starting the car. I made this for myself after my new 30A replacement fuse - initial fix for crank but not start problem, failed to start after 4 days. Some members...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Malleus]

Have you checked your fusbile links? I'd have started there, before I replaced the fuse box.

 

[2001LC]

Possible transmission neutral lock-off SW. Sometimes shifting into "P" to lightly, it cranks without starting. Try shifting to "N" or slam into park, see if it then start!

Make sure to come back and let us know if solution found or not.

 

[timmybear406]

Hello ih8mud community, i know this probably is the 50th crank no start forum post but i really need help. 2000 Land Cruiser 100 Series - 297k miles. Since about 290k miles i’ve had the infamous crank no start issue. Happens a few times a week. Have scanned for codes multiple times/ None.

So far i’ve replaced
(All new from toyota)
ECU / New Key
Fuel Pump
Fuse Box assembly

At this point i’m ready to throw in the towel but figured i’d give the community a shout. Any ideas as to what may be left to troubleshoot.

Any help would be appreciated.

Any update? I have a 2001 LC with 203,000 miles and I'm having trouble with the "crank no start" but my security light is flashing.

The dealer wanted to change out the ECU but I didn't want to do that yet. Hope it's something else.

 

[2001LC]

Security light flashing IG key in, indicates immobilizer issue. Most likely a fuse box issue. Search mud for "immobilizer" @medtro is expert and has a kit to fix.

 

[BullElk]

^^^^^^ Problem solver right there.

 

[timmybear406]

Security light flashing IG key in, indicates immobilizer issue. Most likely a fuse box issue. Search mud for "immobilizer" @medtro is expert and has a kit to fix.

I'm hoping the kit from @medtro will solve the issue. It sure seems like it would.
But I'm still exploring all options while I wait for the kit.

 

[medtro]

I'm hoping the kit from @medtro will solve the issue. It sure seems like it would.
But I'm still exploring all options while I wait for the kit.

It will, based on the information you sent this morning.

 

[BenScott]

I've had a few recent no start issues myself (2000 w/ 217K miles). EFI fuse looks fine but tried swapping it with new 20a and 30a fuses anyway just to see what happens and there was no change. Also tried removing the EFI relay and reseating it but still no dice. Guess I'll order Medtro's kit and see if that fixes it.

I haven't been experiencing any fuel deliver issues whatsoever so I don't think it's fuel pump related..

 

[TimTX]

I had a Crank-but not start issue. I think mine has to do with the neutral lock-SW?

So, no issues at all...got in the truck after a HS football game. Cranked all day long, but never turned over. NO smell of fuel, didn't sound weird or ever try and turn over. As if something safety might have been preventing my fuel pump from sending fuel.

Anyways, I tried putting the key in, taking it out, tried turning it on..did that about 5 times...nothing changed, clean sound of the truck cranking.

For some reason, I tried putting the key in (without turning) and moved the shifter from Park to Neutral, than back to Park.

BINGO started right up like it always does and ran like always.

I'm nervous to take it out or atleast turn it off somewhere lol

Thoughts???

 

[SteveH]

@TimTX - Cranked all day long, but never turned over. NO smell of fuel, didn't sound weird or ever try and turn over. As if something safety might have been preventing my fuel pump from sending fuel.

When my truck would crank, but not start, I opened up the air cleaner lid and sprayed Ether starting fluid down the intake. Fired up and ran perfectly - for 5 seconds. This led me to replace the fuel pump. You might consider the careful use of Ether to determine if you have a fuel problem when it won't start. If the Ether makes no difference, then you don't have a fuel problem. My starting problem (so far) was hot days and an OEM fuel pump with 315K miles on it.

 

[excessive]

agree with what the others have said, check the neutral safety switch.

 

[peskywombats]

Any update? I have a 2001 LC with 203,000 miles and I'm having trouble with the "crank no start" but my security light is flashing.

The dealer wanted to change out the ECU but I didn't want to do that yet. Hope it's something else.

Sooo ... I thought I may have had a battery issue, because it started after a jump, but all tests showed the battery, alternator and starter were good. Two/threee weeeks go by without issue, then, it happened again. All normal assumptions would be battery, because it starts with a jump. But then I put a new battery in ... and the same.

 

[2001LC]

To be clear on terminology:

Cranking, is when engine cranks (turns over), spins as normally heard when starting. It's the sound of starter turning engine crankshaft, pistons moving up & down, etc. Just before engine fires-up (engine runs as normal). Or cranks and does not start, just keeps cranking.

When you turn the IG key to start and no cranking is heard (engine does not turn over), nothing. Perhaps just a click or dash lights dim. Is not the same as engine cranking.

 

[peskywombats]

To be clear on terminology:

Cranking, is when engine cranks (turns over), spins as normally heard when starting. It's the sound of starter turning engine crankshaft, pistons moving up & down, etc. Just before engine fires-up (engine runs as normal). Or cranks and does not start, just keeps cranking.

When you turn the IG key to start and no cranking is heard (engine does not turn over), nothing. Perhaps just a click or dash lights dim. Is not the same as engine cranking.

Good reminder. My issue is simply no cranking, which is indeed more indicitative of a bad battery. Thank you.

 

[2001LC]

I like to clean battery post once a year. Once post and clamps shinny & clean. I add white lithium grease to the post and clamps. This inhibit oxidation, which can reduce voltage/AMP. I only sung the nuts on clamps tight, until I can not rotor the clamps on post. Overnighting clamp, will damage it.

I check that I've a good connection with volt meter. First touching each post to get a volt reading. I'm look for 12.5 volts or more. Than I touch only the clamps and should see same voltage. Then I touch positive clamp and a ground point or even a few grounds. First ground is the ground bolt and fender, that ground wire first goes to from battery negative clamp. Then I touch an engine ground. The voltage should always read the same, as did positive post to negative post.

Battery must always be kept fully charge, or they get damaged. If we see a voltage drop, from what voltage reads post to post. At even just clamp to clamp. We'll not get a full charge. If vehicle not driven at least once a week, battery will become damaged. For those not driving daily. A battery tender will save the battery and a lot of no start issues

 

[peskywombats]

So ... it happened again. With a new battery, it's run for about three weeks, started every time. But tonight, same thing again, it wouldn't start. Clicks, all lights come on, etc. Then, after about three hours, it started. Really odd. So basically, every few weeks it won't start, then suddenly starts again. Thankfully this time, it was in my driveway. Any thoughts?

 

[2001LC]

Old school test.

Click, no crank, occasionally. With good battery, showing on meter volts 12.5V or better, everywhere checked the same volt reading. Is like starter contacts on their way out (early warning). In years 98-05, it is possible to tap on starter, with steel bar (chrome bar in tool kit). Tapping on start will often vibrate/move plunger, turning its copper contact washer just a tad. If it then starts right after doing this "tap", it's 99% sure thing starter contacts are failing. Cure replace starter!

 

[peskywombats]

Old school test.

Click, no crank, occasionally. With good battery, showing on meter volts 12.5V or better, everywhere checked the same volt reading. Is like starter contacts on their way out (early warning). In years 98-05, it is possible to tap on starter, with steel bar (chrome bar in tool kit). Tapping on start will often vibrate/move plunger, turning its copper contact washer just a tad. If it then starts right after doing this "tap", it's 99% sure thing starter contacts are failing. Cure replace starter!

Thank you for taking the time to respond, I'll look into that. While it's a 99, it only has 130k miles. I did try the neutral lock-off test, and that seemed to work in terms of it starting, and, I do shift into park rather gently because I'm in a very tight garage and just think "Oh, let's be careful while in this small space with this huge truck ..."