Intermittent No start after vehcile gets warm along with high idle at times and a Fuel smell from eh (1 Viewer)

[Jackspos62]

Hey I'm new to this form and Toyotas.
I'm A GM master tech with 10 years experience.
Don't know anything about a toyota.
Just bought a 1988 fj62 that lived near the beach for 6 years so a little Rusty.
Just bought it and I thought it ran good until 1 day after ownership it would not start.
Drove to the gas station filled my tank with gas and drove home and ran inside for 10 minutes. I was ready to head back out and the engine would turn over but would not start.
I pulled the fuel line off the regulator and cranked it over and no fuel sprayed out.
Figured my fuel pump took a dump.
Replaced the fuel pump. It fired up good.
Drove down the road and while at a stop light the engine was reving up to 2,000 rpm with no foot in the gas pedal and the throttle knob all the way in.
I towed it back home and pulled the fuel line off at the regulator and cranked the engine and fuel went flying out.
Put the fuel line back on and it fired up no problem.
I took it for another spin and it left me stranded at the store.
Went back 2 hours later and it fired up no problem.
On the way home it kepts bogging down happen about 5 times in my 3 miles ride home.
Pulled in the driveway and let it sit for a minute and no start.
Went back out 10 minute's later and started it up and the idle spiked to 2,000 rpm agian and held steady.
I shut it off and no start after that.
I replaced the Fuel pressure Regulator a few days latter all seamed good then all of a suddem it wouldn't start agian.
Has new cap and rotor,plugs,wires,fuel pump and F.P.R.
Seams that after sitting it will start.
But once warm it will not start and I noticed the exhaust smells like fuel.
Also how can I pull Codes?
Does Toyota use Flash codes?

 

[gregnash]

First off welcome to the club!!! <--- official MUD welcome

Take a look in my sig line for the FSM and also look in the vendor forums and search for a thread started by @Trollhole that has every FSM you could ever want. That will get you started from there I do believe that Mr. T used flash codes on the 62 so FSM should help with that. Also, search function at the top right is your friend know I have heard this issue from others so I am sure there is an answer out there...

Oh and as with the interwebz these days...
PICS OR IT DIDNT HAPPEN!!!

 

[DoubleNickels]

Man, I feel for you. I drive an 89 FJ62 and chasing down these demons is truly a pain. I spent a lot of time searching for the perfect post on MUD that explained my exact symptoms... in the end it often comes down to brute-force troubleshooting, step-by-step, according to the FSM.

X2 from what @gregnash mentioned - get your hands on a Factory Service Manual and thumb to the EFI section. You can indeed jump the terminals on the check engine connector and count flashes. The codes give a good jump on troubleshooting and I'm always surprised when folks don't start there first.

I had the very same no-start-when-warm issue and changed out several items before the problem disappeared. I changed out the Fuel Pressure Regulator, Throttle Position Sensor, Fuel Pump, and Fuel Filter. I also thoroughly cleaned the throttle body, plenum, cold start injector... I can't say which one was THE culprit, but systematic troubleshooting revealed they were all failed or failing. You should also check your relays, specifically the Circuit Open Relay, which can glitch out as a function of time powered on due to temperature effects.

Last but not least make sure to check your charcoal canister to see if it's plugged/frozen - mine was blocked and causing my fuel tank to pressurize and (I'm convinced) causing my fuel pump to work extra hard at times.

Keep us posted, and good luck.

 

[Jackspos62]

Man, I feel for you. I drive an 89 FJ62 and chasing down these demons is truly a pain. I spent a lot of time searching for the perfect post on MUD that explained my exact symptoms... in the end it often comes down to brute-force troubleshooting, step-by-step, according to the FSM.

X2 from what @gregnash mentioned - get your hands on a Factory Service Manual and thumb to the EFI section. You can indeed jump the terminals on the check engine connector and count flashes. The codes give a good jump on troubleshooting and I'm always surprised when folks don't start there first.

I had the very same no-start-when-warm issue and changed out several items before the problem disappeared. I changed out the Fuel Pressure Regulator, Throttle Position Sensor, Fuel Pump, and Fuel Filter. I also thoroughly cleaned the throttle body, plenum, cold start injector... I can't say which one was THE culprit, but systematic troubleshooting revealed they were all failed or failing. You should also check your relays, specifically the Circuit Open Relay, which can glitch out as a function of time powered on due to temperature effects.

Last but not least make sure to check your charcoal canister to see if it's plugged/frozen - mine was blocked and causing my fuel tank to pressurize and (I'm convinced) causing my fuel pump to work extra hard at times.

Keep us posted, and good luck.

Pulled some codes ..it finally started to act up last night and the CE light stayed on.
I got a dtc 14, 22 and 24.
I did have the intake air flow sensor off the other day.
I noticed I had a crack in the intake pipe.
I repaired that and cleaned the T/B because it was a little coked up.
The 22 and 24 are for the ECT sensor and Air flow meter.
Im going to check alldata service information today and see what's up with the Code 14.

 

[Jackspos62]

Also I took the charcol canister out over the weekend and checked its valve operations. And sprayed some shop air threw it.
Seamed ok.

 

[SteveH]

I noticed I had a crack in the intake pipe.

Be sure the intake (rubber) hoses are rock solid - they can cause a variety if starting/idling issues with Land Cruisers (or anything else).

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

i love the simplicity of the 3FE and its diagnostics. it is dead simple. if you're a master tech, then you should know how things like throttle position, engine temp, air flow, etc are what affect the engines ability to burn gasoline. You've pulled codes, now download an fsm and go thru the diagnostics test procedures associated with the given codes. I will say that you should also check your TPS for functionality and adjust it to FSM. You may have wiring issues based upon what I'm reading...seems that the fuel pump circuit is cutting off for some reason, and after some idle time, comes back on line. your swapping parts after its been setting for a bit is coincidental to the rig firing back up...I'm wagering a bad relay or loose connection for that issue. of course, there will be others down the line form here. Try to stop thinking of mechaniking as steps used on chevys, and start thinking of mechaniking as being a mechanic- the principals applied here are the same, just in a different spot in the line-up...savvy?

 

[Jackspos62]

i love the simplicity of the 3FE and its diagnostics. it is dead simple. if you're a master tech, then you should know how things like throttle position, engine temp, air flow, etc are what affect the engines ability to burn gasoline. You've pulled codes, now download an fsm and go thru the diagnostics test procedures associated with the given codes. I will say that you should also check your TPS for functionality and adjust it to FSM. You may have wiring issues based upon what I'm reading...seems that the fuel pump circuit is cutting off for some reason, and after some idle time, comes back on line. your swapping parts after its been setting for a bit is coincidental to the rig firing back up...I'm wagering a bad relay or loose connection for that issue. of course, there will be others down the line form here. Try to stop thinking of mechaniking as steps used on chevys, and start thinking of mechaniking as being a mechanic- the principals applied here are the same, just in a different spot in the line-up...savvy?

Yeah the vehicle is at Home and I work almost an hour away so I'm in the process if bringing some diagnosis tools home for the Thanksgiving holiday.
I find repairing Cars is difficult with basic tools and No factory Service information.
What makes me a good tech is my ability to Follow a flow chart and a Schematic reading.
The haynes Manuel I got has no wiring colors.
Alldata is going to be key.
Stealing the username and PW from work today.
I was hoping someone had the same problem and I good have a golden egg or silver bullet and nip this in the butt.

 

[Jackspos62]

Update.
Put her back together did a valve adjustmemt for the hell of it cleared all dtc's Drove about 100 miles problem free. Left me stranded agian. Pffftt.
I was driving and experienced a loss In power. It wanted to stall and then the idle jumped to 1100 RPM in drive. Pulled over, put her in park and the idle jumped to 2000 RPM with No Check engine light.
I bit the bullet turned the engine off and attempted to start her back up and no luck.
Just cranked and cranked and cranked.

I let it sit for an hour and still no start.
I decided to disconnect and reconmect the battery and try agian and still no start.

Got a tow home 2 hours later.
After the tow truck driver droped her off she fired right up .
The check engine light also came on and I pulled a code 22. Water temp sensor code.
Pulled the connector off the ECT sensor and it was all corodded and all green, eww.
I threw a new sensor and pig tail connector on there and no more code 22 so far.
I Drove that PIG around the block and every time I hit the throttle the C.E. light would quickly flash on then off, so I pulled into the driveway and with the engine running I pulled a code with my paper clip scantool. Got a code 51, every time I taped or feathered the throttle.

Also I could make it stall by feathering the throttle.

I'll be looking into a new Throttle position sensor and reevaluate.

Not sure why a TPS would cause a no start but I have seen coolant temp sensors cause some really strange problems.
Maybe the ECT sensor was causing it to run to rich and then dumping to much fuel on to the plugs. After sitting for a few hours the plugs dry out and she runs good till the next skewed sensor Reading.
Just a theory.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

WAIT!!!..those things need to be cleaned and adjusted- in fact, it may only need a slight tweek in adjustment....there are many things to send that code...you need to get the gaskets to remove the throttle body, and the ICS from the plenum so you can clean the TB and TPS and recalibrate the TPS- do a harness check while you're there to make sure the wiring to the ECU is good...don't just toss parts yet...or, if you do, take em off gentle and send em to me...
now, your coolant switch might have been telling you about a low coolant condition, or it could be bad, or it could be the harness- AS COULD BE THE TPS ISSUE!!!. maybe it's bad, or maybe there's an air pocket, right?
find the part of the FSM that goes over diagnostics- it's dead simple, and worth the time to prove these circuits to yourself. save further headache and save some cash on not trouble shooting at the parts counter...in the FSM it's in chapter FI...

 

[Jackspos62]

Roger that! Might be a week before I get some time. But I'll be sure to circuit check.

 

[olija]

Please do keep us updated on your troubleshooting and what you find. I think I have a similar issue but it's only happened once or twice last summer and I've had the truck parked since mid-August.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

and be sure to adjust the TPS per FSM- even a new replacement will have to be dialed in...