I installed Slee Offroad LX570 sliders, here's how it went

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Did everyone just trash the OEM AHC bars after the install?
I stacked mine up in the shed, just in case, but more likely so that my kids can haul it to the dump after I'm gone. ;)
 
Hi Folks,

Resurrecting this thread with a couple questions. I purchased my LX with these sliders already on it, so I didn't do the install. Just thought I would ask before I go out in the garage and start tearing stuff apart. :hillbilly:

1) Does anybody have a pdf of the installation instructions handy? I know slee sometimes posts instructions to the website, but I don't see them.

2) Based on your installation experience, do you think it would be feasible to mount these maybe 1/2" further out from the body? I'm OK with some light fab (i.e. re-drilling holes, minor welding). If it comes to significant welding, I'd probably ditch the step and use the mounts to build something of my own design.

Please and thank you!
 
Hi Folks,

Resurrecting this thread with a couple questions. I purchased my LX with these sliders already on it, so I didn't do the install. Just thought I would ask before I go out in the garage and start tearing stuff apart. :hillbilly:

1) Does anybody have a pdf of the installation instructions handy? I know slee sometimes posts instructions to the website, but I don't see them.

2) Based on your installation experience, do you think it would be feasible to mount these maybe 1/2" further out from the body? I'm OK with some light fab (i.e. re-drilling holes, minor welding). If it comes to significant welding, I'd probably ditch the step and use the mounts to build something of my own design.

Please and thank you!

I would ask Slee as they have two generations of LX sliders (mine are first). You can tell the two generations apart based on the location of the laser-cut slee logo.

There is some adjustability up-and-down on the mounts to the frame and in-and-out adjustment between the step and the mounts.
 
The logo on mine is on the drivers front door footplate. Don't know if that makes them the newer ones or the older ones. Looking at how the arms attach, it appears the bigger middle arms are welded to the step, so I guess adjusting the step on the arms without moving the arms is out.
 
The logo on mine is on the drivers front door footplate. Don't know if that makes them the newer ones or the older ones. Looking at how the arms attach, it appears the bigger middle arms are welded to the step, so I guess adjusting the step on the arms without moving the arms is out.

Mine too

RmcY3Zu.jpg


There is some wiggle room here to slide it out but if you are looking for substantially more out you'd have to find a way to sleeve and stretch this piece I reckon.
 
Yeah, those are what mine look like. Thanks for the clarification :)

The gears are turning... Also thinking about maybe chopping them at the arm and weld up some Coastal Offroad weld-together tubes onto the slee arms.:hmm:
 
Would anyone happen to have the torque specs for the various bolts? I went with the factory 12lbs for all the 8mm bolts, since that is the spec for the bolts holding the factory AHC protector tubes on, but it seems a little light.

This is the technique I used for putting in the rivnuts w/o a special tool. I used a starlock washer between the rivnut and the oversized nut. Starts at about 2:05.
 
question for owners of the Slee slider steps.. How are they holding up to hits?
I'm asking bc of the 2 piece design brackets have me slightly worried.. also can you HiLift from them (or use a winch on the slider?)
 
question for owners of the Slee slider steps.. How are they holding up to hits?
I'm asking bc of the 2 piece design brackets have me slightly worried.. also can you HiLift from them (or use a winch on the slider?)
Mine are slightly bent after sliding on a rock. Haven’t went under to see if it’s the mounting bracket or the actual slider yet
 
question for owners of the Slee slider steps.. How are they holding up to hits?
I'm asking bc of the 2 piece design brackets have me slightly worried.. also can you HiLift from them (or use a winch on the slider?)

Mine have been on since 2018 and still going strong. I've repainted them because the PC had started to fade.

You can hi-lift on them but they will flex and because there isn't a kickout it puts your hi-lift very close to the body.
 
Thanks for the feedback, I had a set on my Tundra and do like them, sounds like it will fit my Non-rock crawler needs for this truck.

Yeah the Hi-Lift is always close to the body from the slider, it can be useful though.
 
Wife and I installed the Slee sliders on the LX570 (2018). So glad I didn't attempt this in a parking lot in Silverton lol..

While we eventually figured it out, the process would have gone a lot faster if the provided photos/verbiage made sense to a first time installer.
I feel like the steps were written by someone who's done multiple installs, or designed the product. They need to watch someone with zero exp installing one follow it.

The pictures lack context of where it is on the car. Lot of closeup pictures while switching orientation from front of the car or the back of the car..or underneath facing outward.

Step 3 tells you to install a Rivnut. A zoomed out picture of where the hole is would have helped. It totally omits anything about enlarging a hole or drilling a whole. Hint: it appears to be enlarging one. I haven't done this part yet. Unless I am missing something, this doesn't need to be done at the beginning. I haven't done the Rivnut yet.

Step 6 - You only need to install the bracket (plenty of space to install the light later). Even that, you can get away with doing it while the slider is on the truck. But here's the important part: the bracket needs to be pushed to the rear (for the rear bracket) and to the front (for the front ones) so you can install the bolt later for the slider bracket. I had to end up loosening the driver side rear light bracket because I couldn't get the bolt in.

Disjointed steps:
Step 7 and Step 9 and Step 15 need to be reworked.
I would split Step 15 into two steps: one for the trans cross member (combine step 9 here), and another for bottom rear bracket (combine step 7). a call out for driver side Rivnut should be here. Perhaps move step 3 here..

I would also put these split steps between 13 and 14. I think it's also better to have all the bolts, even for the trans/rear bracket, at least started before tightening the slider to the frame.

Install tips: I had a hard time getting to be level in terms of clearance and what eventually helped was using two jacks to keep them at the right spacing. Passenger side came out to 0.5" and driver side is 0.4-0.6". Using a 3/8" allen key was helpful like another member said.
I had to trim two of the washers to push the sliders towards the back to get clearance from the AHC globes.

I don't have a lot of SAE tools...would be nice to have an option to just include metric nuts/bolts. M8 bolt here...then 3/8" here...

EDIT: I just took a look at the supplemental instructions for the LC...and it looks like I need to drill two more holes on the LX for the front bracket?
on 2nd thought, I don't think I need to since the LX has 2 bolts (top/bottom) and the LC will use the two holes side by side. So nvm on the front drilling..

1784645244584.webp


Overall, it's not a difficult install. The time consuming part is figuring out what to do and ...tightening those bolts to the frame ain't fun either.

@sleeoffroad
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom