how do I extend the frame and keep it straight?

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Just go for it! Wing it. Calibrate with BFH if it doesn't come out exactly perfect.

I've already said I think having a buddy bring a theodolite will be the easiest, cheapest, fastest way to do it, but the human eye easily detects variations down to 1/8 of an inch. So just go for it! What's the worst that could happen?

I smart not much... had to google theodolite, and misspelled it even.... don't know cool friends with one of those.

I do have a rotating lazer (yes, I spell it with a Z, and yes, mine is better because it goes to Eleven!!) level that I might use; however, the beam seems to be about 1/8 wide, so not as accurate as something like that. Tried using it on the pool table before too.
 
@2fpower, have you considered renting the screw type jack stands? You'd need only 4 of those and 4 regulars to do the leveling needed, wouldn't have to use shimming method. I was thinking of a solution and came up with this, hadn't crossed my mind until I was up at the girlfriends parents helping her dad and saw a set in the corner of the shop next to his lift.
 
@2fpower, have you considered renting the screw type jack stands? You'd need only 4 of those and 4 regulars to do the leveling needed, wouldn't have to use shimming method. I was thinking of a solution and came up with this, hadn't crossed my mind until I was up at the girlfriends parents helping her dad and saw a set in the corner of the shop next to his lift.

Great idea. Been needing an excuse to get some of those for welding exhaust pipes. Wonder if HF sells those.
 
FOur pack on amazon (warehouse deal) for $35 bucks. 6000 lbs each. DONE.


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I rebuilt a chassis in my garage using two halves to make a good one for a wrecked pickup. Had a similar result to @47coeman, I took mine to a shop for a wheel alignment after, and they didn't have to change it at all .

The key is measuring lots before and after cutting.
I like the idea of centre punching some reference marks in a place that's easy to take measurements.
The chassis I cut had a lot of 1/4 hooks in it that were there for alignment in the factory jig. They have me options for points to measure from.

My garage floor was not level. I also jacked and propped the chassis to get it level while I was working on it.

You're on the right track with measuring to your four points on each side (your orange marks).
A rotating laser is a great idea. that would make it so much easier and give you a flat plans to measure from without having to set sting lines. It would help a lot in checking for any twist from one side to the other.
If it gives you a wide beam, always read from the top edge of the beam, it will still be plenty accurate.
 
4 pack for $35? And they're good for 6klbs? Damn I need to look into those. If they're tall enough I'm buying a set and gifting a set of my old jack stands to someone. I have 4 tall heavy duty stands, 4 medium, medium duty stands 2 standard small stands and a small pin type stand... I could use some screw type ones.
 
Amazon.com: Camco 44560 Olympian Aluminum Stack Jack Stand - 4 pack: Automotive

hit the new and used button to see if there is warehouse deals.

Home depot has two packs for $20.

FYI, these are made for RV and trailers, so not sure if the top spins or not, you want it to be able to rotate separate from the screw, so it does not move. At this price, I can fab up something.


I think you'll need (8) total right? (4) for front half and (4) for rear half??????

Yeah, I would NOT use these as jack stands to work under something other than what @2fpower is doing. They are made for leveling campers or other "stationary" objects, but the top is round and flat, not U-shaped like a jack stand.
 
bought two sets.
 
When sectioning a frame is is best to z cut the frame... learned this the hard way back halving a minitruck... straight vertical cuts are hell to reinforce whenever when making and applying fish plates... a "Z" cut allows for horizontal shear which is far stronger than 2 pieces butted together...
 
When sectioning a frame is is best to z cut the frame... learned this the hard way back halving a minitruck... straight vertical cuts are hell to reinforce whenever when making and applying fish plates... a "Z" cut allows for horizontal shear which is far stronger than 2 pieces butted together...
Ok, what is a "Z"????
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I agree, and note that the corners of the cuts are RADIUSED. This makes it so the stress points are not focused into a square corner that can cause a new crack to form.

Then your fish plates inside and out should be different sizes, also with radiused corners. This way, nothing works like a can opener either.
 
If you can do option #2 that would be best.

What tools & experience do you have in the quiver?

I know we all like the most scientifically perfect route, but that simple 'Z' in option 3, dressed well & have a helper (the kiddo) - adding extra purge gas while welding may be the best solution in real world stuff if you're cutting with say a angle grinder & don't own a plasma or oxy rig.

Willing to rent/borrow a plasma? -That would really help the conversation.

Also- If you can't do the stretch in the frame before it flares to make the width between the transfer case & rear cabin/axle width - then some 'gentle Z' slugs would be what I'd weld on a benchtop & add in as complete spools to each side.

My $.02
 
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