HJ60 frame and powertrain swap (12ht A440)

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Not sure if anyone has used these guys in Oz before but I just finished my 24v LED tail light replacement and its great...

http://www.brightlightautoparts.com/LEDReplacementGlobes.html

Part numbers you need:
2 of the BAY15D2436LR (red 24v dual bulbs for running and brake)
2 of the BA15S2436LW (white 24v for reverse)
2 of the BA15S2436LY (yellow for turn sig)

Havent found the right ones for the smaller bulbs yet for 24v replacements. These also increase the speed of your turn signal flash rate, I guess because of the lower resistance, but all works find and its a direct replacement.
 
I found an annoying bug with the water methanol injection kit I got from Snow Performance. I ordered the special "low pressure" version for under 25psi of boost. Apparently the dash computer is altered to for the lower boost, but they did not rescale the the gauge, so I barely register one light on the LED gauge. Annoying. They are looking into a fix for me, but I am a bit annoyed seeing as how I asked specifically about this issue, and now have the thing installed to find this out. The EGT gauge works great though. I cant wait to get the pump installed and have this thing working to see the performance change. I sure am getting a lot of blinky lights on my dash.
 
I found an annoying bug with the water methanol injection kit I got from Snow Performance. I ordered the special "low pressure" version for under 25psi of boost. .

A damn !!! I thought gonna loose the 1/4 mille .. :eek:
 
The temp sensor next to the oil pressure sender is for the glow system preheat timer. It uses the temp reading to determine how long to glow. I think the sensor on the thermostat housing is the one you want to use for your temp gauge.

So basically this tells the timer if the engine is already hot, to NOT heat the glow screens? I cant seem to find the timer... Does anyone know exactly where it is? (the manual says inside the passenger side fender, but I have not located it, and passenger side is ambiguous in jap vs us)

I have determined the black two wire plug that has a low current 24v, is my old temp sensor that went to the glow blocks on my 2H. Not really sure what to do with that now.

I then have three hi-current wires. One is hot whenever the key is on, and the other two seem like they should get current from the glow relay, but that relay is now only getting 9v and not firing? I am trying to determine if that is a bad connection, or that everything has to be hooked up before the glow timer will send the correct signal to the relay... confusing. Any pics of a working harness and glow terminals all hooked up (hopefully a 24v version) would be MUCH appreciated.

Hook up the glow screen wires to a 100A relay (available at auto electric shops) and ground. Wire the relay to a dash mounted pushbutton switch.

I am basically about to do this, as hooking it up to my old harness is proving really confusing. What I am now most confused by now is how to hook up the glow screen wires. The diagram shown below doesnt really show any wires coming up to the terminals as i would expect? The other odd thing is that the glow plug terminal has some sort of specialized screw head I have never seen and dont seem to have a wrench for... Any ideas on that?

Click for larger photo
 
Not sure if this helps or not , but there are tons of pictures of my 12HT in my 87 on my sig line. I can take specific ones if needed.

Thanks!
That is helpful. Pic #21:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/waggonergary/detail?src=ph&.dir=eb23&.dnm=1c46.jpg

Is very close to what I need. I zoomed in on the area I am trying to figure out and put it up here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/longnow/LCFrameSwap/photo#5009901775315885410

I am trying to figure out which wires go to what on those terminals. Looks like on the terminal with the red wire is one of the leads from the solenoid, and the same on the other one... But it also looks like there may be a third wire on the other one? Any more shots of that area would be helpful. If I could get that picture taken one step to the left and closeup I think I would have it!

Thanks again...
 
Thanks for the pics Gary! The pic you sent me is really helpful.

http://picasaweb.google.com/longnow/LCFrameSwap/photo#5009987202215402866

I have two heavy wires and one light one just like you show there. The light one (green in your pic) I assume is some kind of sensor. Now I just need to figure out how to loosen the funny nut on the preheater body (noted in the pic) I have tried torx, 12pt and 6pt wrenches and sockets. Anyone know what that is and where to get the tool I need?
 
I have two heavy wires and one light one just like you show there. The light one (green in your pic) I assume is some kind of sensor. Now I just need to figure out how to loosen the funny nut on the preheater body (noted in the pic) I have tried torx, 12pt and 6pt wrenches and sockets. Anyone know what that is and where to get the tool I need?

Why are you trying to remove it? Your connections happen at the two main terminals. Just connect the main lead that used to connect to the bus bar of your glow plugs up to one of the terminals. Did this with a 13B-T into my old BJ70.
 
Why are you trying to remove it? Your connections happen at the two main terminals. Just connect the main lead that used to connect to the bus bar of your glow plugs up to one of the terminals. Did this with a 13B-T into my old BJ70.

Thats a good question... Sheldon just asked the same thing. That picture is of Wagonners 24v preheater block. My engine which came from Australia, and was made as 12v, and has no wire going to the front (the red wire in that picture). And my assumption after looking at that pic and other diagrams, was that I needed that second wire for 24v preheat. I assumed that it splits the load across the two sides in a 24v system.

Any other suggestions very welcome, as it does look like it was made to not come off and maybe I am barking up the wrong tree.
 
Ok first of all.. stop getting advice from this "Sheldon" guy.. he's bad news :cool:
Open your 12H-T engine manual to ST-8 and ST-9 The wiring diagram is there and shows 12v and 24v detail. It apears that the 12v screen just takes power to the left pole where the 24v takes power at both.
I think ideally if someone could disco their temp sender on their 12H-T HJ61 and take a volt meter reading on each terminal as it goes through the full glow cycle. That would tell you what you are looking to duplicate from your glow system. But before you hook anything up, first see if you can get yourself swapped into a 24v screen.

Sheldon
 
Yup well it looks like Mountain Goat is will to trade me his 24v for my 12v! Thanks!

Ok first of all.. stop getting advice from this "Sheldon" guy.. he's bad news :cool:
Open your 12H-T engine manual to ST-8 and ST-9 The wiring diagram is there and shows 12v and 24v detail. It apears that the 12v screen just takes power to the left pole where the 24v takes power at both.
I think ideally if someone could disco their temp sender on their 12H-T HJ61 and take a volt meter reading on each terminal as it goes through the full glow cycle. That would tell you what you are looking to duplicate from your glow system. But before you hook anything up, first see if you can get yourself swapped into a 24v screen.

Sheldon
 
It looks like the folks at Snow Performance are not able to get their low boost version to register on their computer. (since boost on my turbo is only in the teens basically all I get is one bar ever on the digital gauge)

This just inst going to work for me, so I think i am going to abandon the water/methanol injection for now and send this kit back.
 
This just inst going to work for me, so I think i am going to abandon the water/methanol injection for now and send this kit back.

why .. are not interested in hi boost like 12 - 14 PSI . ?
 
why .. are not interested in hi boost like 12 - 14 PSI . ?

For this kit that is low boost. Even at 14 psi it might only show 2 of the 10 LED bars on the gauge....
 
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For this kit that is low boost. Even at 14 psi it might only show 2 of the 10 LED bars on the gauge....

damn ! it means this kit it's for 30 PSI + !!! :eek:
 

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