HJ60 frame and powertrain swap (12ht A440)
- Thread starter zander
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- Thread starter
- #22
Well I got the proper tranny mount and got that all sorted. Finish mounted the motor/tranny, tapped in the EGT sensor and two ports for water/methanol injection. (special 24v kit from Snowperfomance) With the body off we also swapped in all viton fuel and breather lines. I was not able to swap the fuel filler tube as i have not found viton or other bio-diesel compatable material that large. I plan on teeing the fuel return into the breather line for the fuel return (this method was suggested by the guys at 4WheelAuto).
The body mount kit I got from 4 crawler had some problems. They sent four 3.5" and twelve 4" bolts (which are actually 3/8-24 Grade 8 bolts available at OSH and Mcmaster) and my vehicle needed 12 x 3" bolts and only four of the 4" bolts. (the threads did not go high enough to just use bolts that were too long) Roger at 4 crawler was very responsive, and said he had never had a problem before, so it may have been a difference with the HJ60 vs FJ?
In any case I got the body mounted and just got it back from the muffler shop where a new 3" exhaust was put on it with a straight through 3" Magnaflow resonator to take out the drone.
A funny thing happened when we had the body on and it was up on the lift. We realized the whole motor was at a good slant to the frame! I was really concerned that I had done something wrong, but after looking at all the clearances around the tranny etc they seemed dead on. So we put the radiator and shroud in and checked it its clearances on the engine fan... Its perfect. I guess its designed that way and I never noticed.
So now to the details...
The body mount kit I got from 4 crawler had some problems. They sent four 3.5" and twelve 4" bolts (which are actually 3/8-24 Grade 8 bolts available at OSH and Mcmaster) and my vehicle needed 12 x 3" bolts and only four of the 4" bolts. (the threads did not go high enough to just use bolts that were too long) Roger at 4 crawler was very responsive, and said he had never had a problem before, so it may have been a difference with the HJ60 vs FJ?
In any case I got the body mounted and just got it back from the muffler shop where a new 3" exhaust was put on it with a straight through 3" Magnaflow resonator to take out the drone.
A funny thing happened when we had the body on and it was up on the lift. We realized the whole motor was at a good slant to the frame! I was really concerned that I had done something wrong, but after looking at all the clearances around the tranny etc they seemed dead on. So we put the radiator and shroud in and checked it its clearances on the engine fan... Its perfect. I guess its designed that way and I never noticed.
So now to the details...
- Thread starter
- #23
A couple of the puzzlers I have right now...
1 - It seems my throttle linkage cable is now too long and has a funny bend in it with the 12ht. Does anyone know if there is a different one for the 12ht vs 2h? Or is it a routing thing?
2 - I have a 24v tach from an HJ61 that has red and green trubo lights on it... Does anyone know what those hook up to?
1 - It seems my throttle linkage cable is now too long and has a funny bend in it with the 12ht. Does anyone know if there is a different one for the 12ht vs 2h? Or is it a routing thing?
2 - I have a 24v tach from an HJ61 that has red and green trubo lights on it... Does anyone know what those hook up to?
Could this be a RH/LH issue?? Your 12HT is from a RHD vehicle and your cable is from a LHD.
Ive seen some posts on north american forums that mention shops that shorten cables for engine swaps ,I need one myself as the the 3F cable is 10 mm longer than the 1HZ.
Is the sheathing too long or just the cable. If its just the cable they can crimp another ball/cylinder thing on the end
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- Jan 8, 2004
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Very nice work.
Cheers,
Adam
Cheers,
Adam
- Thread starter
- #30
Okay it looks like I just had the routing wrong on the throttle cable. All is well now with that.
So now I just need to figure out what to hook up to the green and red turbo lights on my tach and all is well. I should have this thing running this weekend if all goes well.
So now I just need to figure out what to hook up to the green and red turbo lights on my tach and all is well. I should have this thing running this weekend if all goes well.
Green is "normal" boost, red is "over" boost. I will try and find the specs for the pressure at which they light up. (after supper)
- Thread starter
- #32
Yes I have figured out (from others) that the green light comes on at 3psi and the red at 14psi, and have now been told that they hook up to sensors that are somehow also connected to the turbo manifold...?
This does not seem to be covered in the manual unless I am missing it somehow. Any pictures of the sensors and where they hook up the manifold appreciated.
thanks!
- Thread starter
- #35
So I got the throttle body assembly routed with the tranny kick down cable this weekend. Went to hook up the air cleaner and found that the 12h-t manifold intake is 80mm and the air cleaner box output is 70mm. I spoke with Sheldon at G&S and he said he had a 80mm-70mm hose from a 12h-t for me, and is sending it down along with a set of new rear heater lines to replace my old funky ones. New battery ground cable is going on and some electrical and vaccuum hookups and it should be ready to start...
- Thread starter
- #36
I now have a set of those solenoid sensors coming from G&S as well so I can light up my tach lights.
I guess the other thing I should do is figure out how to reset my odometer to zero now that I have a rebuilt motor...
Here is a pic of the motor installed:
Click for blow up
I guess the other thing I should do is figure out how to reset my odometer to zero now that I have a rebuilt motor...
Here is a pic of the motor installed:
Click for blow up
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #40
Well she ran today! I just got back from my first drive, the power is sweet, it flew up the hill to the Golden Gate Bridge that it used bog down on. (And the water/methanol injection is still not hooked up yet).
A few niggly things left. The manuals I downloaded dont seem to have a real hj61 wiring diagram... anyone with an hj61 wiring and or vaccuum diagram (or even pictures of your engine bay on the passenger side toward the firewall)
- I seem to have 2 temp sensors. I have the current harness hooked up to the one on the side next to the oil sender. But there is one on the top too (or at least the place for one there which I put my old temp sender in)
- I havnt figure out how to hook up the glow system? Any pics or advice of that is also appreciated.
I think we at least know where all the vaccuum lines go now, just need to figure out how to hook them up or block them off, as near as we can tell this is what they do:
- one idles up the engine for steering while still (not hooked up)
- one idles up for the AC when still (not hooked up)
- one goes to the turbo boost light sensors (not hooked up)
- one shuts the engine off (that one is now hooked up)
A few niggly things left. The manuals I downloaded dont seem to have a real hj61 wiring diagram... anyone with an hj61 wiring and or vaccuum diagram (or even pictures of your engine bay on the passenger side toward the firewall)
- I seem to have 2 temp sensors. I have the current harness hooked up to the one on the side next to the oil sender. But there is one on the top too (or at least the place for one there which I put my old temp sender in)
- I havnt figure out how to hook up the glow system? Any pics or advice of that is also appreciated.
I think we at least know where all the vaccuum lines go now, just need to figure out how to hook them up or block them off, as near as we can tell this is what they do:
- one idles up the engine for steering while still (not hooked up)
- one idles up for the AC when still (not hooked up)
- one goes to the turbo boost light sensors (not hooked up)
- one shuts the engine off (that one is now hooked up)