- Thread starter
- #101
Its in the exhaust manifold at the firewall end of the motor.
HJ60 frame and powertrain swap (12ht A440)
- Thread starter zander
- Start date
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Its in the exhaust manifold at the firewall end of the motor.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
so you drill your exhaust manifold .. means it's pre turbo .. and your ISSPRO it's for a pre turbo instalation .. ?
Then and apart .. 1250 seembs to be a wide accepted number as max limit for EGT's .. I'v been pass over 1300 in my 1HD-T several times for a few segs .. nothing to really worry about it ..
And for the tranny sensor .. use the outher line at the tranny .. I use an adapter to run the probe right there in my A442F where is the factory sensor anycase ..
- Thread starter
- #103
Just got my Hallman dial-a-boost unit in from Extreme PSI which I will install when the rain/snow stops. By other accounts this should lower my EGTs.
I have to say after spending the last 3 weeks here in the eastern Sierra that I am super happy with the fan and hood louver mods. I had not quite realized the difference until I came up from Bishop (4000ft) to where we are staying in Swall Meadow (6700ft) the other day and accidentally left the fan off. Every other day with the fan on the temp never went above the low normal mark. That night it had climbed all the way to high normal.
In addition the water sprayer has helped cool the system down on any really long nasty ascents. I have done a few on and off road ascents on hot days of over a vertical mile in elevation. Normally I would have had to stop to let the engine cool, but the water spray allowed me to keep charging.
I have to say after spending the last 3 weeks here in the eastern Sierra that I am super happy with the fan and hood louver mods. I had not quite realized the difference until I came up from Bishop (4000ft) to where we are staying in Swall Meadow (6700ft) the other day and accidentally left the fan off. Every other day with the fan on the temp never went above the low normal mark. That night it had climbed all the way to high normal.
In addition the water sprayer has helped cool the system down on any really long nasty ascents. I have done a few on and off road ascents on hot days of over a vertical mile in elevation. Normally I would have had to stop to let the engine cool, but the water spray allowed me to keep charging.
- Thread starter
- #104
So the Sierra storms cleared and I was able to install the Hallman RX boost controller. It seems to be the perfect one for the 12ht. At almost full boost I have it sitting at 14psi (could likely get 15 psi out of it). This gives me about 30 turns of resolution back to standard boost of 7psi. Nice unit all around as it has a ceramic ball inside instead of metal, and it is built with plenty of friction on the dial so you dont need to lock it. They also sell the cable kit so you can control it from the cab.
Anyway the new mod is definitely a good one. Increasing the boost does help the EGTs for a given speed, and now I can go a lot faster up the grades out here in the Sierras!
Anyway the new mod is definitely a good one. Increasing the boost does help the EGTs for a given speed, and now I can go a lot faster up the grades out here in the Sierras!
Cool.. just installed the same Boost controller on my 1HD-FT this evening..
except I don't have the ceramic ball.
Goes like a rocket at 15PSI
Backed it off to 13PSI for now.
except I don't have the ceramic ball.
Goes like a rocket at 15PSI
Backed it off to 13PSI for now.
- Thread starter
- #106
Yeah now mine is peaking at 14, but cruise speed on the highway is 7-9psi and so only goes up into the teens when accelerating or on big hills, so it doesnt spend too much time there. I am very happy with the quality of the unit, would definitely recommend.
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- Thread starter
- #107
Dropped off my rig with Mudrak in Sonoma CA yesterday to get new OME suspension, Safari Snorkel, and 24v ARB compressor. He also found my tie rods were in need of repair and is swapping all those out. Cant wait to get it back.
- Thread starter
- #108
Just drove the 60 back from Sonoma with the new OME springs and shocks, what a difference. Gary at Mudrak said most of my suspension and struts were really shot. It feels like a new truck. Also got the Safari snorkel that seems to have brought down the EGTs a bit... He also made a great bracket to install my new 24v ARB compressor direct to the frame. He said that when they install to the sheetmetal they vibrate a lot. I will be wiring that up and routing to my front bumper stainless tank when I get back from traveling. Cant recommend Mudrak enough, super great guy who clearly takes pride in all his work.
- Thread starter
- #109
So I started with the HJ60 24v which now has a 62 frame and 12ht in it. But I just scored a rust free white 62 here is California (12v) and I want to swap its body onto my frame and powerplant.
So I am thinking now is the time to switch to 12v. I plan on rewinding the engine accessories that need that but I am trying to figure out what t o keep vs swap and this thread has been helpful. Here are the questions I have if anyone has any advice it is much appreciated.
- The 62 dash is different from my 24v 60, can I just use it the 62 dash and the 12v harness or will there be some sort of wiring clash I should be aware of?
- I was thinking of using my old 60 grill and headlights (because I like the look) but from the thread above it sounds like my 62 harness with the two headlights will have different wiring. Anyone tried that?
- I was planning on swapping tanks over from my 24v 60 since its all set up for my fuel return line etc, but this thread reminded me that I will need a 12v fuel pump. Can I just use the 12v gasser pump and figure out how to connect my return line?
- Any other stuff I am missing?
So I am thinking now is the time to switch to 12v. I plan on rewinding the engine accessories that need that but I am trying to figure out what t o keep vs swap and this thread has been helpful. Here are the questions I have if anyone has any advice it is much appreciated.
- The 62 dash is different from my 24v 60, can I just use it the 62 dash and the 12v harness or will there be some sort of wiring clash I should be aware of?
- I was thinking of using my old 60 grill and headlights (because I like the look) but from the thread above it sounds like my 62 harness with the two headlights will have different wiring. Anyone tried that?
- I was planning on swapping tanks over from my 24v 60 since its all set up for my fuel return line etc, but this thread reminded me that I will need a 12v fuel pump. Can I just use the 12v gasser pump and figure out how to connect my return line?
- Any other stuff I am missing?
12ht needs no fuel pump...
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
afaik, the 62 fenders are different than the 60 fenders and won't interchange. so if you want to run the 60 headlights, then you'll have to run the 60 fenders as well.
i can do some checking, i have a couple of 60s and a couple of 62s at the shop right now.
hth
georg @ valley hybrids
- Thread starter
- #112
afaik, the 62 fenders are different than the 60 fenders and won't interchange. so if you want to run the 60 headlights, then you'll have to run the 60 fenders as well.
i can do some checking, i have a couple of 60s and a couple of 62s at the shop right now.
ack! thats a bummer because the 62 front right fender is trashed and I was going to bring use the 60 one and repaint. Any more info on this would be appreciated! And I may be in need of a new 62 fender then...
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
if you like the 60 series headlights better than why not run the 60 series fenders and headlights. especially if one of the 62 fenders is junk......
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
the harness should be super simple.....you'll just be removing one headlight connector per side. i guess you could just tape it up to pervent too much corrosion just in case.
- Thread starter
- #116
So now that I am doing my swap to a 62 body there are a lot of different things I wasn't expecting. The big one at the moment is the throttle cable. In the HJ60 there is a hard link with two pivot boxes that brings the motion up from the pedal to a short cable that has a large amount of free cable on the end and a socket for the ball style throttle actuator.
In the 62 there is a cable that come out of the firewall and has less cable sticking out the other end and has very different end on it.
I am about to custom machine a new end for the 62 cable so that it can work with 12ht actuator, but I wanted to ask if anyone has solved this problem and how?
In the 62 there is a cable that come out of the firewall and has less cable sticking out the other end and has very different end on it.
I am about to custom machine a new end for the 62 cable so that it can work with 12ht actuator, but I wanted to ask if anyone has solved this problem and how?
Or you could order up a LHD HJ61 Throttle cable from Dave at Japan4x4
Part number 78180-90A22
The cable is a bolt up to the FJ62 pedal and goes all the way over to the RH side of the 12H-T engine.
I sourced one of these cables for Stones FJ80 12H-T
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...bo-diesel-transplant-into-my-1991-fj80-2.html
and another for a FJ62 swap that G&S/Ciaran Wilson put together, see pic.
Part number 78180-90A22
The cable is a bolt up to the FJ62 pedal and goes all the way over to the RH side of the 12H-T engine.
I sourced one of these cables for Stones FJ80 12H-T
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...bo-diesel-transplant-into-my-1991-fj80-2.html
and another for a FJ62 swap that G&S/Ciaran Wilson put together, see pic.
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- Thread starter
- #118
Oooh thats the answer I was looking for. Cheers!
What do you need a glow screen for in California!?
Save your money, You can throw 12v at the 24v screen, it will take a little longer to heat up that's all.
Check Stone's 80 12H-T swap, that's what he's done and controls it with a cole hersee momentary switch.
S
Save your money, You can throw 12v at the 24v screen, it will take a little longer to heat up that's all.
Check Stone's 80 12H-T swap, that's what he's done and controls it with a cole hersee momentary switch.
S
