HJ47

[frankenyota]

The farm ute takes a bit of time to reach the 100km/h speed limit and l always wanted to check the pump timing so l removed no1 injector line and checked the spill timing.
I didn’t use an inspection pipe like the manual suggests but you can see the point where the fluid rises from the delivery valve.
Mine is a fair way out. Should line up with the bottom line of the double lines on the crank pulley,

 

[cruiserpilot]

I timed mine last year, way smoother! Good thing to do.

 

[frankenyota]

Mine seems to run alright as it is but lacks top end speed. Have found an issue with advancing the pump to match the timing marks.
The inner bolt holes for the adjustment bottom out before l get to 18 degrees. Thinking l will have to move the pump a tooth to get the timing correct.
Looks like the front cover has to come off for this to be done correctly. Been told there is an inspection bolt you remove and you can see the pump gear timing marks?

 

[cruiserpilot]

We just did it by the book, as described above Don’t remember anything
about that.

 

[frankenyota]

I have followed the FSM on the adjustment but ran out of advance. It seems the later model 2H engines have an inspection bolt in the timing cover but mine is the earlier 2H. Looks like l will be ordering some gaskets to do this job later on.
So after adjustment and reassemble with the timing still retarded just before 11 degrees l took it for a road test.
There is an improvement in pick up and the old 2H seems to be a bit smoother at idle. Will be ordering some gaskets and seals and checking the gear timing. Would there be any other things that people would consider doing while the injector pump is coming out?
Like heat exchanger gasket maybe?

 

[frankenyota]

Still waiting on parts to arrive to do the timing job. Bought and fitted a coolant filter in the top radiator hose, after seeing all the rust come out of the block while flushing it l didn’t want my new radiator to block up. I have used one before on my gen 1 Hilux when I fitted the commodore V6 with great results. Tried the Redline brand this time.

 

[frankenyota]

Needed to replace the kick vent gaskets but didn’t want to drop $20 a gasket plus shipping when l needed to get 6 of them.
So decided to buy some sticky backed 4mm foam and made a template to cut my own. Cost came to $7.50 for two gaskets

 

[frankenyota]

Also finished working on my overhead console. Here’s some pics from start to finish. Still like to add a mount to hold my phone and maybe get a JRP gauge set up.

 

[frankenyota]

It’s nice to have a stereo when you get board of that diesel rattle.
I also wanted to sort out a tow bar so l could use the Ute to take the tinny down to the river. This is what was on the Ute and had been abused and had pulled the rear crossmember out of shape. Looks to be home made

 

[frankenyota]

So l had a tow bar that l removed from a FJ60 parts car l had and decided to add some mounts to that to suit the HJ47. Width was perfect and just needed a good clean up to remove some rust, straightened out the rear crossmember with a BF Hammer and welded up some small cracks. Made up a centre plate like the original bar and added some mounting points at the chassis rail ends and layed down some big welds, seems pretty solid.
This bar also uses a Hayman and Reece style receiver hitch.

 

[frankenyota]

Recently noticed the passenger rear leaf pack had a leaf starting to come out of the front of the pack. So stripped it down thinking the leaf may have cracked but found the centre bolt had broken. Replaced it with a spare l had. Also put better u bolts on as these ones had wear marks on them.
Removed the lower two load leafs to help soften the ride, will play around with the ride in the future. Hoping to get 75 series springs fitted when I finish adding my winch to the front and dog box to the tray.

 

[frankenyota]

Found the spring locating hole on the diff had flogged out. Quick clean up and weld to fix that. I also noticed the bottom overload leaf spring retainer clamp was at the front of the pack, I always thought they go at the rear of the pack?

 

[frankenyota]

Been looking at headlight upgrades for Olive the swb and the old farm ute.
Ute has some sealed beams that seem ok but slightly yellow, considered LEDs but wanted something a bit more period correct. Came across the Koito H4 kit and decided to go with them. The kit comes with two new H4 lens, bulbs and a wiring harness

 

[frankenyota]

The first picture is the old Stanley sealed beams with the dome shaped lens

Koito lights installed and looking super bright, lens have a flat face which l think looks better

This picture is of one sealed beam(RH) and Koito (LH), Koito light seems whiter but hard to tell from the photo.
The headlights already go through a relay but will fit the new harness

 

[frankenyota]

So after receiving my timing cover gasket and front seal l decided to revisit the timing issue. So stripped it down to check the gear timing. Removed the idler gears and set up the timing to find it was spot on
Needed a pulley to remove the balancer, sand blasted the cover and gave it a paint to make it look nice.
Looks like the front balancer will need a speedy sleeve, seal was rock hard.

 

[frankenyota]

So not sure why I can’t get to 18 degrees timing. The inner bolts that mount the pump run out of adjustment and I probably only need a few more mm to get there. Spoke with a diesel shop and he thinks it’s strange and told me to check the auto timing advanced unit hadn’t been fitted in the wrong spot. Now it seems there is a oil weep at the pump o ring after I adjusted it months ago, I guess from moving a nearly 40 year old oring. I think I might pull the pump and fix the oring but I will need to remove the auto timer which needs a special tool or puller, and see why the inner bolt slots run out of adjustment.
Timing gear set, and bolt holes with some adjustment still

 

[frankenyota]

After pulling the inner nuts and using a mirror it appears the slots are clogged with rust and dirt. I gouged some out with a pick and compressed air but not 100%.
So continued pulling the pump and wanted to replace the orings

 

[frankenyota]

Pulled the pump and had to make a puller to remove the automatic timer.
Came up with a brass bush and retapped a new thread for a bolt to go through to push on the shaft. Reinstalled the nut loosely and she popped straight off, winning
Now to order some orings to fix these leaks.

 

[frankenyota]

While waiting for my orings to come in my brother wanted to bring up his troopy up to go over it. The plan is to get the clutch and brake hydraulics sorted to investigate the engine knock.

 

[frankenyota]

Some cool features on this model 9/84, last of the 40 series we saw in Aus.
Under bonnet light, looks factory.