HJ47 welcome here? (3 Viewers)

[Henry James the 47th]

Mine had the 60/40 bench, and I have decided to go to 2 bucket seats as a console in the middle gives me both valuable storage, and a place to put the stereo, since I have modded my dash. I was originally going to put in an amp and use an mp3 player, but I decided that a decent cd deck gave me the amp and a radio.

As for the change in seating, take a look back in this thread, especially posts #450~461 and you can see what was involved in the switch. Another one of those little details between LHD and RHD.

Did 45's ever come stock with a pair of bucket seats, or was it always 60/40 or full bench from the factory?

 

[65-fj45]

as far as I know, they only came with a 60/40 split bench

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Here's a few shots of the Tilton brake proportioning valve - a little jewel of a piece - for the rear disc brakes. This was the only proportioning valve I could find on the market that was made to accept 10mm metric fittings directly, so no adapter is needed. The fewer fittings in the system the better, I figure.

I took a couple of pieces of 14g. 'L' section, put them back-to-back and welded them together. This made for a pretty rigid 'T' section bracket, which I then welded to the firewall and bolted the Tilton valve into place.

Now I need to do a little more fiddling with the brake lines along the firewall, and that will have to wait a few days.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

one more..

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Some minor progress today - the front diff 3rd is now back on the axle. The nuts and washers I have are rusted, so I only fixed it in place with a couple for the time being, and ordered up some new ones from SOR. I used a new cork gasket under the third member, though I wasn't exactly sure this was the best course, having a paper gasket and liquid gasket on hand as well. I'm planning to put magnetic drain plugs in, so that was added to my SOR order.

While I was laying under the engine I noticed that I had omitted to install one of the mounting bolts for the p/s vane pump (visible in the second pic below), so I took the opportunity to rectify that. That involved loosening the tensioner and other bolts so I could jiggle it to get the lower bolt in. Went smoothly.

Then I took the wire wheel to the oil pan, and drained the engine oil for the first time. To my relief, no water came out, unlike the previous 2H I had. The oil was pretty dirty, and I know it was a little low in the engine, barely reaching the dipstick. I'm hoping this new engine, along with the original tranny and transfer, do not cause me too many headaches when I get the truck running again. At this point I have really very little idea as to the condition of the three major parts of the drive train. At least there's no water in the oil though.

Giving some thought to pumping another $300 in, for a transfer rebuild kit. Seems worth it, and I'd like to get that red oil 'balancing' line off there - obviously the seal between the transmission and transfer is shot, so at a minimum that needs to go. And if I'm going to pull the transfer, it makes sense to re-do all the seals, and the bearing while I'm at it. Apparently, it's not too bad a job at all.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

One more - the oil pan after wire wheeling. I'll paint it with some rust converting chemical soon enough.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Well that just looks great. I've used the liquid gasket (only the Toyota stuff) on other vehicles and have yet to have a leak. The stuff is great. The nice thing about that, is if your cork gasket decides to start marking it's territory, then you can pretty easily drop the third out and put the FIPK on there.

As to the T-case rebuild.... I would. I think that if it's going to be separated anyway, that you'd feel pretty silly if it croaked in 1,000 miles. That was the logic I used on my faux-Hilux, and the peace of mind of having rebuilt all of that stuff is great. Even though very little actually needed replacing, just knowing that I had put new parts in there really makes me feel better driving through the cold mountains here.

Dan

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Yeah, I checked into the transfer re-build kit from SOR, and for the splitcase it's only $209, so I am pretty much decided on going ahead with the transfer re-build. That will leave me with only the transmission and engine being unknowns. Jeez, I've been through everything else.


The other issue with the transfer case involves the speedo drive. With the larger-than-stock Toyos on there, my speedometer is going to be inaccurate. I believe I will need to get a electronic sender unit, or some sort of speedo re-gear set up to make all well again.

 

[lostmarbles]

I don't think I've posted in this thread before but I assure you I've been reading it. And - A LOT!!!
Wow! What a superb build and a top photographic account of it to boot!
When I started on MUD, in order to control the amount of my valuable time it absorbs, I resolved to visit only 2 forums (the "40 series" and the "diesel tech"). But thanks to you posting some advice (about the winch lever floor cutout) on one of those forums, you lured me over here and this remains my one exception to my visiting rule.
Now - Whenever I have a spare moment (preferrably at work where I can get paid for my leisure time) I enjoy reading through this thread. I can't say what percentage I have read so far. I just don't know because it's soooooooo long. (I must get better organised and record what page I'm up to. I always start from the beginning or from the end each time and never get to see the vast middle bit!)
But "Thank You" for all the effort you have gone to to give us this valuable account of your obsession. In my opinion it is a highlight of the whole MUD site!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Hi Tom,

I'm greatly cheered by your kind words. After 4 hours of untangling wires today, it's nice to see your positivism.

I was in N.Z. a very long time ago - 1984 - cycle-touring on the North Island, and I remember well the interestingly diverse landscape of tremendous beauty (which reminded me of B.C. Canada in many ways), the friendly people, and all the old, well-maintained vehicles. I guess at that time import duties were so severe that buying a new vehicle was very cost-prohibitive for most folks, and thus there were lots of old rigs - I remember the Morris Minors in particular - still running around. N.Z. seemed like 20 years in the past, and I hope it is still somewhat that way, despite the digital revolution. Kiwis are to Aussies what Canadians are to Americans, at least that is how it struck me at the time.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Kiwis are to Aussies what Canadians are to Americans, at least that is how it struck me at the time.

Ain't that the truth! I'm glad I'm not the only person who has had that thought.

Dan

 

[lostmarbles]

.....cycle-touring on the North Island...

Gosh. And you lived to tell the tale! Our roads and drivers aren't very cyclist-friendly!

....and all the old, well-maintained vehicles. I guess at that time import duties were so severe that buying a new vehicle was very cost-prohibitive for most folks, and thus there were lots of old rigs - I remember the Morris Minors in particular - still running around.......

Thank heavens most of those old Morries are gone now! And so are the Hillman Hunters and Austin Allegros and the like. I seem to remember it was all to do with selling butter and lamb to the UK. We got their cars in return. And for a time, only people with "overseas funds" - like farmers- could buy those new Brittish cars too. But once the UK joined the "Common Market" (I guess that's the "European Union" in today's language?) that meat/butter-for-cars dealing was finished. In recent times we've had an extremely open market in used japanese vehicles so they now dominate the roads.

Used Japanese vehicles have been allowed in relatively unrestricted because, unlike Australia, we have no vehicle assembly industry left here to bother protecting. Thus second-hand vehicles are generally cheaper here than in Australia too.

...Kiwis are to Aussies what Canadians are to Americans, at least that is how it struck me at the time.

I think we have pretty similar values (Kiwis and Aussis) but there is strong sporting rivalry. Actually when I lived in Perth, I honestly couldn't distinguish an Aussi from a Kiwi. But their accents tend to get stronger in the eastern states - which is weird because they are very much closer to New Zealand there. Best I don't say more about this. (Don't want to start another round of country-of-origin jokes.)

 

[trekker]

2 cups of coffee and a couple of pop tarts and this thread. it was a great morning. carry on. amazing work and write up.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

LostMarbles wrote:

"Gosh. And you lived to tell the tale! Our roads and drivers aren't very cyclist-friendly!"

Well, funny you say that. Compared to Australia (at that time anyway) N.Z. was far and away more cycle friendly. I mean, at least the average road in N.Z. has a shoulder on it, whereas many of the roads I cycle toured in N.S.W. Australia had no shoulder and I remember semi trailer trucks cruising past me, not moving over at all, with literally inches to spare to my handlebar (and nowhere for me to go but into the bushes). Pretty scary at times.

The hills on the North Island of N.Z. are still very memorable to me to this day, as was the astounding variety of bizarre road kill, unlike anything I had seen before, or since.

Trekker, glad you've enjoyed the read thus far - kudos for sitting down for the duration. it's got a while to go yet, though I'm saying right now that my intention is to have this truck back on the road by May...












...of 2008, no less. I'll do my best to make sure that happens. It's mostly a labour issue at this point, as I think I'm down to only about $2000 in material costs.

Happy New Year to one and all, and may 2008 bring you closer to your dreams!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

A few more steps ahead. Finally got the rear 3rd member adjusted and fitted in - what an ordeal! One of the problems that caused me hours of confusion was that one of the side carrier main bearings was not fully seated

Anyhow, after the pumpkin was back in the patch, I got a torque wrench and set the rear hubs up, put in the lock nuts and fitted the rear axle shafts

I'm short a few cone washers (damaged when I removed them due to my limited grasp at the time of how to remove them cleanly), but they're in there, and I will put the missing cone washers (4 in total) when I get 'em.

Then I popped the prop shaft back on, just to remember how it actually looks all put together, though I held off tightening all the bolts up since i will be pulling the transfer for a strip down and rebuild in another few weeks, funds permitting.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Got a call today from the rad shop. Apparently my rad doesn't leak, but looks to be on its last legs. a 4-core will be $656 + tax, or i could go with a 3-core for $511. A little spendier than I was anticipating.

I started on the front prop shaft, smacking it with a hammer to get the u-joint off. I will media blast it soon and re-paint it, then fit new u-joints.

As you can see from the first picture, I've pulled the steering parts and knuckle arms off. They need priming and painting.

I went back to the wiring as well, this time looking at the heater blower. It was missing the resistor, so I put on one from a spare i had.

I can't wait for the weather to warm up a bit so I get on with all the myriad painting tasks that lay ahead.

 

[lostmarbles]

Looking good as usual HJ.

 

[ColoCruiserJeff]

Love the build! I wish I was making as much progress as you and everyone else on here

Keep up the great progress!!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I did some more on the fan blower, after discovering during a test, that the motor worked like crud and it squealed a bit. Something clearly was not right.

I took it apart, and discovered that the brush holder was in upside down, and a washer, spacing the base of the plastic vane from the base of the housing on the spindle, was on the wrong side of the vane. This would be easy enough to do when taking something like this apart, if you weren't careful, but in this case it's clear that when the p.o. had the fan back together and in didn't work well, they threw it up for sale instead of trying to figure out the problem.

Notice the rubber accordion-like hose on the housing, what year(s) are these specific to? The other blower housings and motor housings I have lack this hose altogether, so I'm wondering it it is '79~ or even later?

I took the time while it was apart to replace a missing plastic bushing for the upper end of the baffle hinge pin. That improved the swing of the baffle plate a lot. I also replaced a broken off bolt left in the housing flange - it simply presses out with light pressure, so I guess the previous owner - the 'restorer'- of the blower hadn't figured that out. This blower I had picked up off Ebay as 're-built' and looked all shiny with new bolts-- well, at least I scored it for only $10.

It works fine now, and that's one more bit of the wiring harness puzzle sorted out as an added bonus. Curiously, the FSM wiring diagram shows two power wires to the fan, while the motor has three power wires going to it, 2 of which are specific to the hi.low switch setting. Then there's the white-black ground wire on top of that. I wonder why the wiring diagram doesn't indicate the third wire?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

While working on the blower, I had a couple of spare motors around to use as a reference. When I discovered that the blower housing that I got (the main reason I had picked it up in the first place was for the clean uncracked, housing) had the hole in it for the accordion-like hose, I then discovered that the housings of the other 3 motors i have do not have allowance for this accordion hose to attach, so I had to stick with the motor housing that came with the Ebay-sourced one.

Then I noticed another thing - the fan vanes are of two varieties, one with the blades oriented left and one tilted right. As the blower housings are shaped inside to put the vane to one side and allow space for more air to be pushed out on the other, I realized that the difference in vane direction was yet another aspect of difference between LHD and RHD vehicle.

Not only are the LHD/RHD housings non-switchable between sides, but the motor doesn't swap over without changing the vane, and rotating the top of the motor 180˚ to put the electrical terminal in the right spot.

I also noticed that the motor housing comes from the factory with some sort of fabric tape wrapping the housing in two seam locations. I wonder if it's some sort of special tape of which I've never heard?

My now re-constituted fan has two speed settings and works smoothly and quietly at both settings now. Another tick off the 'to do' list. I think the pto driveshaft fitting is next.

I guess if you wanted more settings for fan speed, it would be a matter of adding specific resistors and a switch with more positions. It would be nice, but I don't know if I'm going to bother, and i have no idea what other sort of switch would swap in cleanly. Has anyone come across a suitable pull-out fan switch with more than two speed settings?