High oil pressure and oil blowing out by filter after B-12 in crankcase and oil change :/ (1 Viewer)

[Bluegrass40]

Here is what happened... It's unfortunately a bit of an 'I told ME so'.

It was time for an oil change on my 78 with a stock 2F. I was debating if I should try to clean up the crank case a bit with sea foam or B-12. I was leaning toward no, but then decided to do it. I used less than prescribed, put it in, drove for about 15 minutes and drained the oil. There was some sludge that came out. I filled the truck with 7.5 qts Rotella T 15/40 and some ZDDP additive and put on a new filter. Fired up the truck and it sounded great! I noticed my oil pressure when up to 60 when it usually runs at 40 (first sign of problems). I shut the truck down after I saw pressure. Then I checked the dip stick and saw that it was over a quart low (second sign of problems). I looked under the 40 to verify that the plug was tight and saw a puddle of oil (1/2 quart) on the ground :/ I checked the filter and it was tight (3/4 turn past first seal contact). I pulled the filter off and checked the gasket to see if it was blown out or double gasketed. Everything looked fine. I put it back on and fired it back up. Same result. I put another new filter on and had the same result.

I did not have much time to root cause but did make these observations. It did not seem like oil was coming out past the oil filter seal. It looked like it was coming out below the filter. Possibly a cracked filter housing? The original filter was on tighter than I normally put them on. I could not remove it by hand... not sure if that is related.


Here is my current train of thought....I broke some junk free that clogged some place down stream of the oil sending unit. The pressure on the system jumped up and caused a leak... possibly an existing crack in my oil filter housing that leaks at high pressure?

I should be able to investigate more tomorrow...

Thoughts? Suggestions? Next steps?

THX!

 

[brian]

pictures
60 psi isn't going to crack anything.

 

[Bluegrass40]

I'll post up some pics when I get home if it is light enough out... I will be looking for the exact oil leak location as well.

I agree that it would not crack anything... but was thinking that the higher pressure may have made an existing crack more 'productive'...


Thx for the reply @brian

 

[shawnfj40]

More likely you've plugged an oil passage and blown a gasket, probably on your oil filter housing.

 

[shawnfj40]

Btw have you always run 15/40 or is this the first time

 

[Bluegrass40]

I always run this oil and viscosity.

I had not thought about the gasket at the oil filter housing. Def a strong possibility. I'm going to try to video the leak tomorrow and understand where it is originating from.

Any thoughts on removing blockage other than a teardown and rebuild?

Thx for the response @shawnfj40

 

[Bluegrass40]

Update.

I started the truck up again this morning. Pressure was around 55. The leak was coming out of the end of a sending unit that is not being used. As you can see in the picture the sender is directly below the filter. Oil appeared to be coming out the end of the sender (sort of between the terminals).

I've been thinking about the motor and am considering a rebuild. It's just impossible to know if everything is getting oiled now.

Thoughts? Any way to have confidence w/o pulling the motor apart?

 

[CRZR45]

Is that a Fram filter? To me it looks like the oil is comimg from the residual left from the filter change. I would degrease that whole area and then restart to confirm where that oil originates. I have heard of some fram filters having a defec and internally not allowing flow. I would spin on a new filter , de grease area really well then fire up again.. my 2c

 

[John Smith]

It appears you have some aftermarket sender, the factory sender, and the gauge hose there. If you are not going to use the senders to send signal to to a gauge, I would remove the T fittings and plumb the aftermarket hose fitting directly to the filter mount. I can't tell, but that looks like the plastic hose that comes with gauges. I would replace that with copper tube before it also fails.

 

[Bluegrass40]

Is that a Fram filter? To me it looks like the oil is comimg from the residual left from the filter change. I would degrease that whole area and then restart to confirm where that oil originates. I have heard of some fram filters having a defec and internally not allowing flow. I would spin on a new filter , de grease area really well then fire up again.. my 2c

@CRZR45 it is a fram filter.
I observed the oil coming out of the unused sending unit. It was not a small amount of oil. It was probably a 1/4 quart in less than 15 seconds. Good idea to degrease the area.

 

[Landpimp]

I'd replace the sender if that's what leaking(and I would hook it back up) or remove and plug if it's not being used

And then drive it, I really dont think you have an isssues.

 

[Bluegrass40]

It appears you have some aftermarket sender, the factory sender, and the gauge hose there. If you are not going to use the senders to send signal to to a gauge, I would remove the T fittings and plumb the aftermarket hose fitting directly to the filter mount. I can't tell, but that looks like the plastic hose that comes with gauges. I would replace that with copper tube before it also fails.

@John Smith
Thx for the comments.

You are right. There is a copper tube going to an analog gauge, and aftermarket and factory sender. Not sure what the story is on all of that. I plan on re plumbing it and getting rid of the unneeded connections.

 

[gator25]

I've had problems with Fram filters. I'd use a WIX, way better filter, or anything else before a Fram if it were me.

 

[Bluegrass40]

Fair. Fram will be going away

 

[Bluegrass40]

It will be interesting to see how much the oil pressure increases (if any) when the I get rid of the leaking sending unit.

 

[Steamer]

I was just wondering if it’s possible the pump’s intake screen was so packed up with crud causing the pump to put out less pressure because of the restricted suction. Then the additive dissolved the crud and with better flow to the pump a higher output pressure was the result. Just a thought.

If you really think you may have loosened up crud and it’s moving around causing clogs, then I think I’d want to pull the valve cover and make sure there’s oil flow up there. You’d also get a look at how cruddy the engine is. Up top anyway. And if is quite cruddy up there I’d be tempted to do another decrudding treatment. But that’s me. With the valve cover off it would be a good time adjust the valves. Then do a compression check before considering a rebuild.

 

[Bluegrass40]

Thx for the reply @Steamer

The idea that the strainer may have effectively unclogged did cross my mind. I am planning on pulling the valve cover and having a look at the piling and condition I had the cover off apx 1k miles ago for a valve adjustment. I don't remember what it looked like though. I'm debating if I should pull the pan and have a look at the strainer or pull the motor and have a more in depth look. I had been wanted to replace all of the seals on the motor because of small oil leaks but have a feeling that if I pull it I will end up doings rebuild.

First things first though.
1. Pull the leaking sender unit and stop the Large leak.
2. Pull the valve cover and check the oiling and overall visual condition.
3. Let the motor come up to temp are idle and see what the oil pressure is.

I'll post pics with the cover off (hopefully in the next few days)

 

[GA Architect]

FWIW: If you want to install the Toyota OEM oil pressure sending unit, it's part number supersedes to 83520-55011.

 

[Bluegrass40]

I Used a favor and got some help from a Toyota master mechanic.

We pulled the broken sender and plugged it temporarily. Then pulled the valve cover and fired it up. Looks like no oil to the top end. Pressure was still in the upper 50's. Have a look at this video.



Are there any oil passages on the top end that that I can get access to to try to clean w/o pulling the head etc?

 

[Bluegrass40]

Did some reading and saw that it can take some time for the oil to make it up to the rocker arms. So I decided to start it up again and waited about 1 minute. I did get some oil that would very slowly drop from the arms every now and then.

Is this normal? I'm guessing not.