High oil pressure and oil blowing out by filter after B-12 in crankcase and oil change :/
- Thread starter Bluegrass40
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You "may" have a restriction in the small diameter copper oil feed line which runs from roughly about the middle of the short block up to the top (middle) of your rocker arm. It'd explain the high pressure in the short block and the almost complete lack of oiling on the top end. You can access the line by pulling off the coffin cover on the side of the block. The union just unscrews down by the lifters. You might be able to undo the line from the rocker assembly, snake the whole thing out and then hit the line with compressed air to make sure it's clear. Just a thought, it won't cost you anything.
Nevermind. You have a 78' hence no copper line I believe.
- Thread starter
- #24
@Jetlander thx for the feedback. Helpful
@Rock40. Good thinking. Anyone else know how to access the oil passage that leads to the top end on a '78 2F?
Any others accessible areas that I can reach and snake out w/o breaking down the motor?
Thought about pulling the oil filter bracket and having and running a thing wire through it to see if I can feel any blockage. May be a waste of time....
Feedback and suggestions appreciated as always.
Oh by the way. If anyone is considering seafoam or b12 in one of these motors with unknown history, I don't recommend it
@Rock40. Good thinking. Anyone else know how to access the oil passage that leads to the top end on a '78 2F?
Any others accessible areas that I can reach and snake out w/o breaking down the motor?
Thought about pulling the oil filter bracket and having and running a thing wire through it to see if I can feel any blockage. May be a waste of time....
Feedback and suggestions appreciated as always.
Oh by the way. If anyone is considering seafoam or b12 in one of these motors with unknown history, I don't recommend it
I’m pretty sure my F.5 has the same oiling system as your 2F where the oil goes up around a head bolt and into the head. There it makes a 90 deg turn and goes over to, and up into a rocker pedestal. Then into the hollow rocker shaft.
I see some oil dripping out around one of the rockers where it rides on the shaft. I’m guessing your situation is quite similar to mine when I first got my rig. I had real poor oil flow up top. So when I pulled the head to send out for valve work I kept the rocker assembly and disassembled it for a clean up. I found the passages in the rocker arms where plugged which I cleaned out with tip cleaners, leader wire, penetrating oil and compresses air. The shaft was pretty worn so I replaced the shaft and bushings. Back together it had real nice flow out both ends of each rocker. Down onto the valve stem as well as down onto the top of the push rods.
If you do pull the rocker assemble you can also pull the dizzy and spin the pump with a drill and check for flow out of the hole that feeds the pedestal.
I'm relying on my memory so I hope others correct me if I'm off.
I see some oil dripping out around one of the rockers where it rides on the shaft. I’m guessing your situation is quite similar to mine when I first got my rig. I had real poor oil flow up top. So when I pulled the head to send out for valve work I kept the rocker assembly and disassembled it for a clean up. I found the passages in the rocker arms where plugged which I cleaned out with tip cleaners, leader wire, penetrating oil and compresses air. The shaft was pretty worn so I replaced the shaft and bushings. Back together it had real nice flow out both ends of each rocker. Down onto the valve stem as well as down onto the top of the push rods.
If you do pull the rocker assemble you can also pull the dizzy and spin the pump with a drill and check for flow out of the hole that feeds the pedestal.
I'm relying on my memory so I hope others correct me if I'm off.
- Thread starter
- #26
@Steamer thx for the info. I'll be pulling the rocker asm and inspecting/cleaning it. Seems pretty straight forward. Just need to keep all the rockers in order, I guess.
Here are some shots from the fsm that are relavant in case someone needs the info for a similar problem.
Here are some shots from the fsm that are relavant in case someone needs the info for a similar problem.
Also, you may want to search this forum for "Oil Galley Plug" if you're not aware of it. When they drill that horizontal passage in the head from outside the head they press in a plug to close off the access. The plugs have been known to pop out and many here have drilled and tapped it for a threaded plug. If you chose to do this at the same time it would also let you clean out that passage and check the flow there.
- Thread starter
- #28
Guys.
I pulled the rocker arm asm. I'm having an issue getting it apart.
First you will notice that there is a prettty thick layer of funky oil residue on everthing. I'm assuming that this is not a great sign. But.... when I go to disssemble the rocker arms and springs, the two end arms seem to be getting hung up on the end of the shaft. I assume that this is not normal. See the video below.
I cleaned the end of the shaft with carb cleaner and it seems to be clean. It seems like the rocker arm bearing is hitting a lip or something. I was going to lightly sand it (the end of the shaft) with some 600 grit. Thoughts/suggestions?
I pulled the rocker arm asm. I'm having an issue getting it apart.
First you will notice that there is a prettty thick layer of funky oil residue on everthing. I'm assuming that this is not a great sign. But.... when I go to disssemble the rocker arms and springs, the two end arms seem to be getting hung up on the end of the shaft. I assume that this is not normal. See the video below.
I cleaned the end of the shaft with carb cleaner and it seems to be clean. It seems like the rocker arm bearing is hitting a lip or something. I was going to lightly sand it (the end of the shaft) with some 600 grit. Thoughts/suggestions?
- Thread starter
- #29
I was able to use a die grinder with a 120grit pad to clean up the mushroomed portion of the end of the rod. Everything slides off freely now.
View attachment 1477545 View attachment 1477546
Going to clean it up tonight and then drive the pump with a drill and see how the flow it up through the head w/o the rocker assembly installed.
View attachment 1477545 View attachment 1477546
Going to clean it up tonight and then drive the pump with a drill and see how the flow it up through the head w/o the rocker assembly installed.
- Thread starter
- #30
I disassembled the rocker arm asm.
It didn't exactly slide apart easily. There was a bit of cleaning and persuading needed to get it separated. Most of the build up was in the areas where the springs sat. There was oil varnish/buildup that was making it difficult to remove the components.
I did note that almost every one of the passages that oil the push rods were completely clogged. (Difficult to see but here is a pic anyway)
All of the passages oiling the valves were completely open.
The passages in the rod and pedistal were all clear.
I do have a question. What orients the rod relative to the inlet from the pedistal and the passages in the rocker arms? It seems that the rod is free to rotate and could therefor be in any position. There are some spots in the rod that are ground down a bit at each pedistal location. What are they for? One can be seen on the top side of the rod , 90 degrees from the oil inlet hole.
The more I dig in, the more confident I am that I will need to break down the motor and clean everything. Hoping that it will not require too much machining and new pistons, cam, etc.....
Still plan on running the oil pump with a drill to understand more of why the top end was not being oiled.
It didn't exactly slide apart easily. There was a bit of cleaning and persuading needed to get it separated. Most of the build up was in the areas where the springs sat. There was oil varnish/buildup that was making it difficult to remove the components.
I did note that almost every one of the passages that oil the push rods were completely clogged. (Difficult to see but here is a pic anyway)
All of the passages oiling the valves were completely open.
The passages in the rod and pedistal were all clear.
I do have a question. What orients the rod relative to the inlet from the pedistal and the passages in the rocker arms? It seems that the rod is free to rotate and could therefor be in any position. There are some spots in the rod that are ground down a bit at each pedistal location. What are they for? One can be seen on the top side of the rod , 90 degrees from the oil inlet hole.
The more I dig in, the more confident I am that I will need to break down the motor and clean everything. Hoping that it will not require too much machining and new pistons, cam, etc.....
Still plan on running the oil pump with a drill to understand more of why the top end was not being oiled.
- Thread starter
- #31
Ok. Answered my own question about orientation of shaft and the ground spots on the shaft.
The ground spots are used to orient the shaft relative to the pedestals. The pedestal has a feature in it that lines up with the ground spot in the shaft.
When the bolts that hold the pedestal are inserted, they engage the shaft and fix its position.
I picked up this info from this video...
The ground spots are used to orient the shaft relative to the pedestals. The pedestal has a feature in it that lines up with the ground spot in the shaft.
When the bolts that hold the pedestal are inserted, they engage the shaft and fix its position.
I picked up this info from this video...
- Thread starter
- #32
Ground down the end of some rod stock (apx 8") to make an oil pump driver. Removed the dizzy and pumped away. It worked great. Many people have also used a cutoff flat head screw driver...
Pressure quickly built to 60psi and held. There was very little flow to the rocker pedestal inlet as expected.
No surprise. Looks like a teardown is in the near future. Hoping that I can get away with minimal machining work and don't need a new cam or pistons. We shall see.
Pressure quickly built to 60psi and held. There was very little flow to the rocker pedestal inlet as expected.
No surprise. Looks like a teardown is in the near future. Hoping that I can get away with minimal machining work and don't need a new cam or pistons. We shall see.
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I would drop the pan and clean out any sludge you can, then only put in sludge remover engine flush, I have also heard of using diesel or Karosine in it. Pull the distributor and use a drill to turn the oil pump while someone else rotates the crank shaft. Nice ting about that is you do not have to run the engine and you can do that with the rockers off to see of you can get the flow back. If you can get it to start flowing better, you can keep running the cleaner through it. No wear on the bearings with the slow rotation speed. If you can get it to flow with a drill, then you can keep that flow going for much longer to clean the passages out with no real risk to the engine. I would not want to drive it with pressure that high and oil not properly flowing. If it is not flowing to a bearing you can have real problems real quick.
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- #34
Thx for the suggestions @cjgoode
I though about trying to flush until my pressure came down and flow was appropriate up top. But... I'd never know if I was oiling all of the bearings etc or if some passages remained blocked. I have been wanting to gasket/seal the motor for a while. Sick of oil leaks. This is probably as good a reason to do it as any. Plan is the break it down and regasket it. Likely won't happen till mid July (which sucks).
I though about trying to flush until my pressure came down and flow was appropriate up top. But... I'd never know if I was oiling all of the bearings etc or if some passages remained blocked. I have been wanting to gasket/seal the motor for a while. Sick of oil leaks. This is probably as good a reason to do it as any. Plan is the break it down and regasket it. Likely won't happen till mid July (which sucks).
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- #36
@Steamer
I did forget about that. how do I know when it's in the proper position? Or is it, 'turn the crank slowly till you see oil flow increase'?
Have never seen a cam and journal bearing in person so I don't really understand how that all works.
Thx.
I did forget about that. how do I know when it's in the proper position? Or is it, 'turn the crank slowly till you see oil flow increase'?
Have never seen a cam and journal bearing in person so I don't really understand how that all works.
Thx.
That's the only way I know of. I've seen it discussed here before but I don't recall anyone having a better way. And of course remember two full turns of the crank for one turn of the cam. Also spark plugs out will make it easier for hand turning.