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So, I have a trailer I'm selling online and I got a call from a Cruiser fan about my 80 series which is in some of the pictures, haha. I told him I hadn't thought about selling, but that I would consider it. Right now, however, I have no clue what to price it at and was looking for general help?
Sorry if this is the wrong forum/not allowed. Please delete if needed.
Basics as follows (not sure what will affect value):
1996, factory lockers (confirmed via VIN), 186k, pearl/moonglow.
Winch, ARB front, keyless, remote start, new radio/speakers/sub. Just put about $4000 into it over the last year. New: water pump, radiator, hoses, plug/wires/rotor, breaks, master cylinder, battery, y-pipe, probably more.
Issues: clear coat is coming off some of the fender flares, sun roof only partially opens (it's stuck on broken plastic, easy fix, I've just been too lazy), driver's door handle partially broken (still works), console lights out, defroster doesn't work. Trim piece or two missing. Passenger rear window comes off the track. Basic stuff like that.
Since you're resurrecting, I thought I'd chime in. Prices here in So Cal seem to have really jumped up. I think $15K might be a little low as a starting point. IMO, get an oil analysis ahead of time - any buyer who has done a few Googles is going to want to know about the HG and that's the best way to give a real comprehensive reply regarding the engine. My $0.02So, I'm resurrecting this thread instead of making a new one because the time may have come to get rid of The Arbiter. I haven't made up my mind, but I do have another vehicle on the way and I really need the money (thanks COVID...f'ing dickhead virus), so it's a distinct possibility.
One question...is it worth putting some cash into fixing some of the little stuff beforehand? I'm talking a few hundred bucks, maybe 5-700 or so. I want to replace the windshield for sure just to be a decent dude (it recently got cracked...of course, lol), make all the dash lights work again, stuff like that.
I'm looking to get as much as I can, thinking that having some of that stuff done will help with that.
One thing buyers/sellers generally fail to fully conceptualize is this rather insouciant claim as that of being rust free. Unless the current owner has actually done the windshield replacement work front and rear to assess condition and remediate as necessary, you'll never really know if the truck is rust free in two highly susceptible areas where rust can hide esp if the glass has been replaced in the past. FSM procedure, factory parts are key else water intrusion. Hack jobsI want to replace the windshield for sure just to be a decent dude (it recently got cracked...of course, lol), make all the dash lights work again, stuff like that.
insouciant
Had to google that one... thank you for my word of the day
To the OP, take a look at the latest auction results on BaT . The last two auctions closed around ~ $21K. From the description of your truck, and the market activity lately, I'd say you could list it for $22K and go from there. These trucks, in decent condition, are rarer and rarer and the price of entry looks to be closer to $20K these days... especially if you consider that average sale prices for the 80 series increased 500% in 2020 (from here).
I can definitely tell you the latter part isn't trueFortunes come and go.
Land Cruisers are forever.
Why?Based on the market, there’s a lot of rusty locked 80’s going for 20-30k on BAT.
I think anything with factory lockers will always bring a premium. I also think OBD 2 rigs will specifically go up in value as the market becomes more savvy.
Assuming apples to apples, '95+ is already worth more. That said, it is just one of the handful of things that the current market seems to value. Low miles (under 100k) and factory lockers are the two things that buyers are ponying up for.Why?
granted I have an OBD 1 rig but that aside I don't think it will make any difference. Other than there are airbags. BUT OBD1 rigs offer a much simpler vehicle that’s extremely easy to wrench on. Keep in mind our rigs (obd1 or 2) are very simple and easy to diagnose if you are capable of learning the FSM and the system.
So IMO the more easily triggered CEL of the OBD2 is less desirable than the CEL in the OBD1 rig that only fires of it sees something major. (also I can pull my codes with the flick of a switch and a breeze through my fsm on the dash mounted iPad).
I think there are advantages and disadvantages to both OBD’s, however I think people will buy for the interior and safety features over the onboard diagnostic systems.
I personally like the 91-94 dash waaaaay more than I like the 95-97 (obd2) dash
Toyota Camry dashI personally like the 91-94 dash waaaaay more than I like the 95-97
Neither are very good if we're all totally honest with ourselves hereToyota Camry dash