Help Pricing/Random Offer on 80-series? (1 Viewer)

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So, I have a trailer I'm selling online and I got a call from a Cruiser fan about my 80 series which is in some of the pictures, haha. I told him I hadn't thought about selling, but that I would consider it. Right now, however, I have no clue what to price it at and was looking for general help?

Sorry if this is the wrong forum/not allowed. Please delete if needed.

Basics as follows (not sure what will affect value):

1996, factory lockers (confirmed via VIN), 186k, pearl/moonglow.

Winch, ARB front, keyless, remote start, new radio/speakers/sub. Just put about $4000 into it over the last year. New: water pump, radiator, hoses, plug/wires/rotor, breaks, master cylinder, battery, y-pipe, probably more.

Issues: clear coat is coming off some of the fender flares, sun roof only partially opens (it's stuck on broken plastic, easy fix, I've just been too lazy), driver's door handle partially broken (still works), console lights out, defroster doesn't work. Trim piece or two missing. Passenger rear window comes off the track. Basic stuff like that.

79FC219D-6E36-4707-AB79-81251EDC070B.jpeg
 
So, I'm resurrecting this thread instead of making a new one because the time may have come to get rid of The Arbiter. I haven't made up my mind, but I do have another vehicle on the way and I really need the money (thanks COVID...f'ing dickhead virus), so it's a distinct possibility.

One question...is it worth putting some cash into fixing some of the little stuff beforehand? I'm talking a few hundred bucks, maybe 5-700 or so. I want to replace the windshield for sure just to be a decent dude (it recently got cracked...of course, lol), make all the dash lights work again, stuff like that.

I'm looking to get as much as I can, thinking that having some of that stuff done will help with that.
 
So, I'm resurrecting this thread instead of making a new one because the time may have come to get rid of The Arbiter. I haven't made up my mind, but I do have another vehicle on the way and I really need the money (thanks COVID...f'ing dickhead virus), so it's a distinct possibility.

One question...is it worth putting some cash into fixing some of the little stuff beforehand? I'm talking a few hundred bucks, maybe 5-700 or so. I want to replace the windshield for sure just to be a decent dude (it recently got cracked...of course, lol), make all the dash lights work again, stuff like that.

I'm looking to get as much as I can, thinking that having some of that stuff done will help with that.
Since you're resurrecting, I thought I'd chime in. Prices here in So Cal seem to have really jumped up. I think $15K might be a little low as a starting point. IMO, get an oil analysis ahead of time - any buyer who has done a few Googles is going to want to know about the HG and that's the best way to give a real comprehensive reply regarding the engine. My $0.02
 
To get best price;

-compression test
-no rust
-no oil leaks
-interior not trashed

A well written ad with quality pics that show everything on the Cruiser.

Cheers
 
When i sold my taco, it was purchased in less than an hour of being posted.. I listed what had been done and when, included information as to which oil it likes and which filters, Included those with the sale, and told them what items were coming up, like in the next 60k it will need a new clutch and slave etc, all the way down to pictures of the truck with the entire interior removed when i cleaned the carpet etc, so they knew what was type of vehicle they were getting including what was the last thing that broke and got fixed, and how I fixed it. You want to have an Ad that shows you are not selling it because you let it go and are tired of dealing with it, but that it was well cared for and you are looking for someone who cares about those details also.
 
Awesome advice, thanks. I will definitely get a compression test done. And I already have a Word document where I have everything I've replaced over the last few years, all the things I know are wrong, and what I assume will come due in the next few years.

It's got no rust, interior is good, and it's got the factory triple lockers, and only 188k miles, so I'm optimistic.

It does go through a half quart of oil or so between changes. Mechanic has noted that at some point in the future, the rear main will need replacing, but that's pretty typical at this age, I think. It hasn't gotten any worse over the last two years, so I've been waiting on it.
 
I want to replace the windshield for sure just to be a decent dude (it recently got cracked...of course, lol), make all the dash lights work again, stuff like that.
One thing buyers/sellers generally fail to fully conceptualize is this rather insouciant claim as that of being rust free. Unless the current owner has actually done the windshield replacement work front and rear to assess condition and remediate as necessary, you'll never really know if the truck is rust free in two highly susceptible areas where rust can hide esp if the glass has been replaced in the past. FSM procedure, factory parts are key else water intrusion. Hack jobs :bang:
 
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insouciant

Had to google that one... thank you for my word of the day :hillbilly:

To the OP, take a look at the latest auction results on BaT . The last two auctions closed around ~ $21K. From the description of your truck, and the market activity lately, I'd say you could list it for $22K and go from there. These trucks, in decent condition, are rarer and rarer and the price of entry looks to be closer to $20K these days... especially if you consider that average sale prices for the 80 series increased 500% in 2020 (from here).
 
Had to google that one... thank you for my word of the day :hillbilly:

To the OP, take a look at the latest auction results on BaT . The last two auctions closed around ~ $21K. From the description of your truck, and the market activity lately, I'd say you could list it for $22K and go from there. These trucks, in decent condition, are rarer and rarer and the price of entry looks to be closer to $20K these days... especially if you consider that average sale prices for the 80 series increased 500% in 2020 (from here).

Finally, some data points!

Take care of your 80 and it'll take care of you. Just don't crash it.
 
Fortunately you have been able to hang on to it these last couple months as the prices have jumped since being on Hagerty top 10 rising collectables. 2021 Bull Market List: 10 collectible cars (and one motorcycle) on the upswing this year | Hagerty Media - https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hagerty.com/media/magazine-features/bull-market-2021/amp/

Clean Triple Locked FZJ80's without corrosion, with some records are are actually bringing 25k and up on BaT. So it would be in your best interest if you could spare the time and money to properly list it on BaT.

If you don't have that kind of time. I would consider flying up there to get it with 15K. I might think it would be easy to make 10k, but I know I'd find a place to park it here and keep it.
 
Here is a local Craig's list ad for a 1994 that's NOT 3X locked, with 81.900 original miles and is not in perfect condition, even so the seller is asking $24,500 for it. So it seems that prices are going up.

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Just keep in mind that you’ve seen a 5-10k jump in valuation from the community based on the market for the 80. WITHIN 6 months.... IMO the 80 is going to be the next 40, the value is only going to go up.

If you can hold onto it you should, it’s An appreciating asset it’s like having a giant gold bar on wheels, getting your hands on another one at the price you bought yours for will be impossible.

I get being in a pinch but I’d sell my kidneys, juices and soul before I sell my 80. There’s always other ways. Money is just money, nothing compares to an 80 series.
 
Based on the market, there’s a lot of rusty locked 80’s going for 20-30k on BAT.
I think anything with factory lockers will always bring a premium. I also think OBD 2 rigs will specifically go up in value as the market becomes more savvy.
 
Based on the market, there’s a lot of rusty locked 80’s going for 20-30k on BAT.
I think anything with factory lockers will always bring a premium. I also think OBD 2 rigs will specifically go up in value as the market becomes more savvy.
Why?

granted I have an OBD 1 rig but that aside I don't think it will make any difference. Other than there are airbags. BUT OBD1 rigs offer a much simpler vehicle that’s extremely easy to wrench on. Keep in mind our rigs (obd1 or 2) are very simple and easy to diagnose if you are capable of learning the FSM and the system.

So IMO the more easily triggered CEL of the OBD2 is less desirable than the CEL in the OBD1 rig that only fires of it sees something major. (also I can pull my codes with the flick of a switch and a breeze through my fsm on the dash mounted iPad).

I think there are advantages and disadvantages to both OBD’s, however I think people will buy for the interior and safety features over the onboard diagnostic systems.

I personally like the 91-94 dash waaaaay more than I like the 95-97 (obd2) dash
 
Why?

granted I have an OBD 1 rig but that aside I don't think it will make any difference. Other than there are airbags. BUT OBD1 rigs offer a much simpler vehicle that’s extremely easy to wrench on. Keep in mind our rigs (obd1 or 2) are very simple and easy to diagnose if you are capable of learning the FSM and the system.

So IMO the more easily triggered CEL of the OBD2 is less desirable than the CEL in the OBD1 rig that only fires of it sees something major. (also I can pull my codes with the flick of a switch and a breeze through my fsm on the dash mounted iPad).

I think there are advantages and disadvantages to both OBD’s, however I think people will buy for the interior and safety features over the onboard diagnostic systems.

I personally like the 91-94 dash waaaaay more than I like the 95-97 (obd2) dash
Assuming apples to apples, '95+ is already worth more. That said, it is just one of the handful of things that the current market seems to value. Low miles (under 100k) and factory lockers are the two things that buyers are ponying up for.
 

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