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So aparently you have to change air filters in these things every 4 years or so...:bang:... but on the bright side, it sounds so good right now. I took the filter out, turned the idle mix screw to 3 or 4, and bumped base timing to about 11* advanced. The fj60 dizzy is mechanical advance only, so I’m not too worried about needing to recurve it. I get to analyze a weeks worth of telemetry this weekend after installing the updated speedo. Looking like I’m getting 160ish city miles from about 12.5 gallons of regular 87 octane, maybe only 150..., so better than 12 mpg. Maybe after the air filter change it goes up!:doh:
 
Still getting about 12 mpg...
Put in a set on fj70 door locks with a matching key. What a difference they make. Had to open the hole and clocking notches with my files. But they work like a charm and none of my other Toyota keys work in them. Suppose I’ll need to get the ig block rekeyed to match or maybe keep the separate key for door and ignition...? Looks like I ought to be able to marry the rear door window reg gearset to the front window reg track arms. That might happen this weekend...
 
no- well, later, yes, sort of... I am going to take the gearset of the rear door window reg and marry it to the link arms of the from door window reg. the gearset bases are the same front to rear, the link arms are what is different. If a guy were to drill out the riveted pivot pins and use a carriage bolt or weld the pin back on, the rear gears could be brought up front, and hopefully give a few more years of service to the front door window regs. the rear doors got a lot less use than the fronts over the decades... the door regs look like they share common bases as well. I am going to spend some time trying to get the door guts back to usefulness. I was hoping to find a way to modify the door reg to allow the door to be locked using the inside plunger, then shut with the handle plunger held in, like Toyota did in the 80s, but the linkage won't allow for that. BUT, the fact that both doors can be opened easily from outside using the same key is pretty neat, all by itself.
 
I keep wanting to advertise that about you to the forum ... I bet you’d get some action here!!!
 
PabloCruise said:
I didn’t know! Do you think the idea of locking the door and then closing it (even if you have to hold the plunger) is possible?
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Not easily
 
PabloCruise said:
I didn’t know! Do you think the idea of locking the door and then closing it (even if you have to hold the plunger) is possible?
Click to expand...

I haven't looked at his yet to see if it's possible.
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
I keep wanting to advertise that about you to the forum ... I bet you’d get some action here!!!
Click to expand...

If anyone needs help go ahead and put it out there. I'm getting so busy but more work never hurts. Maybe I will hire you one day.
 
Last time I had my window apart I noticed the rivets too. I was thinking the same thing but put it on the back burner. I was also thinking of putting in universal power windows. Does anyone know if that would hold the window up even with a bad regulator? Sorry for the semi high jack.
 
My assumption regarding the power windows, is that it is like power steering. if you have trouble with your manual steering, adding power will only exacerbate it. I believe the power window motors would still rely on the existing regulator to operate. Looking closely at all the parts, it does seem like something that can be restored, or at least rebuilt. I am considering a tech thread on repairing window regs using reclaimed, low-use-hours back door parts. when comparing the pieces of the rear door to the front door, a lot of wear is apparent on all the teeth of the linkage side gear wing, and the teeth of the crank shaft gear. there is alot a lot of slop at many of the link arm pivot points. I'm hoping that I can grind down the pressed in pivot pins to separate the link arms, swap things around, and reassemble the pressed pins using a washer and a welder, and adding a nylon thrust washer between the link arms to keep them quiet. anyway, hopefully in another thread, with some pics, my verbal meandering can be followed...
 
Megadoomer said:
Last time I had my window apart I noticed the rivets too. I was thinking the same thing but put it on the back burner. I was also thinking of putting in universal power windows. Does anyone know if that would hold the window up even with a bad regulator? Sorry for the semi high jack.
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I'm not sure you can hijack this thread... but you're welcome to try as often as youd like!
 
DF70E0EF-8526-4CFD-BE47-47961DEBA652.jpeg

@beno may see something he approves of...

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Learning about welding bodies should be done on an old pick up bed before an old station wagon... the angle strips have the floor 1 1/4ish” closer to the top rails, to clear the gas tank, and to try to catch the higher rolled line on the profile of the rig with the top of the bed rails...

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Rear sill narrowed and rear stakes notched to keep the rear lip just proud of the new angle strips. Still need to relocate all the bolt(weld?) holes. (Naw, bolts...) in the stake pockets for the raised rear sill. Took about half a dozen resquare the dang the events before I put the dam tape down...

C7DD77CB-0A39-4F54-9DA5-8DA5E747210C.jpeg

My trusty old Japanese battle vise doing the hard work while I grind coffee...

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Wait... why are there three gloves?
 
Fits like a glove?

Like your all in one chipping hammer, I’ve not seen that before.
 
Good eye... it’s for farm welding/ body work/ first aid wound cleaning/ self defense use/ all around conversation instigator....
 
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