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Name brand from Amazon is probably fine. I'm perhaps spoiled in that I have multiple parts stores within a couple miles of here.What about Eaton Bussman (off Amazon)? Finding the hour to get to AutoZone or Advance and back is almost impossible these days
Bell Lexus order a few of each and a couple more of the most common ones. Highly recommend a set of real fuse pulling pliers as wellWhat's everyone's go-to brand for fuses?
What about Eaton Bussman (off Amazon)? Finding the hour to get to AutoZone or Advance and back is almost impossible these days
BussmanWhat's everyone's go-to brand for fuses?
Just be weary of counterfeit. Thats the biggest issue with amazon, that snd if you even get it at all.What about Eaton Bussman (off Amazon)? Finding the hour to get to AutoZone or Advance and back is almost impossible these days
Can you share a link to that switch panel? I'm going to wire up more emergency lights and a siren as well as wanting to move the led light bar and ditch light switch. I'd love for it all to be in a central location.Without a switch panel, your passengers won't ask about your "swaybar" button and you'll never get to monologue about the Toyota Kinetic Dynamic Suspension System
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Can also order from an electronics supplier (DigiKey, Mouser, RSOnline), or even McMaster-Carr, to ensure you're getting quality, non-counterfeit parts. Any brand they sell will be good to go. Not as cheap or convenient as Amazon but for something that you'll want to work if needed and will likely be a one and done purchase, it may be worth it.What's everyone's go-to brand for fuses?
Can you share a link to that switch panel? I'm going to wire up more emergency lights and a siren as well as wanting to move the led light bar and ditch light switch. I'd love for it all to be in a central location.
Its an Auxbeam AR800 from Amazon.Can you share a link to that switch panel? I'm going to wire up more emergency lights and a siren as well as wanting to move the led light bar and ditch light switch. I'd love for it all to be in a central location.
Got my GX aligned at TRU Automotive in Denver and was genuinely impressed, which doesn't happen often. Checked everything after, including torque on the LCA adjusters, and they nailed it. They even torque marked the bolts and nuts, which is something I would do but have never had a shop do.It was a busy weekend wrenching on the GX. I replaced front UCAs, LCAs, all new hardware, and also added 1/4" spacers above the struts. A couple weekends ago I tackled inner and outer tie rods and boots. I stuck with OEM parts since my lift is mild.
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I ordered the Toyota SST balljoint puller from Amayama and it is awesome. I couldn't stop smiling when I unboxed it.
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The reason for the 1/4" strut spacers was due to my 1.5" Dobinsons struts only lifting ~1" over stock height up front. I thought it was a full 1.5" initially but now realize I was comparing to my old, tired front suspension. Spent a lot of time talking with Dobinsons, studying measurements, researching, etc.
In the end, Dobinsons couldn't tell me if my springs were defective or if these coils were not up to the extra weight of the 460. They offered strut spacers and I eventually accepted. A lot more to the story there.
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They just rebuilt my front end, and they exceed expectations. Colter is a really great guy.Got my GX aligned at TRU Automotive in Denver and was genuinely impressed, which doesn't happen often. Checked everything after, including torque on the LCA adjusters, and they nailed it. They even torque marked the bolts and nuts, which is something I would do but have never had a shop do.
TRU could only get me 3.0° of camber, but I kind of expected this with a 1.5" lift on stock UCAs. Looking at the adjusters, that was definitely the max achievable.
The shop I went to last year for an alignment didn't even tighten one of the LCA bolts the first time (and barely acknowledged the mistake), bent one of the adjustment tabs, and when the bolts and nuts were actually tightened, they were under torqued and inconsistent.
ABS and TCS lights again...
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And the corresponding codes
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Quick research shows it's probably the Yaw Rate Sensor, which lives in the center tunnel. Which... I've had apart at least 10 times. Guess I'll start there.
Nope but I'll add that to the list of things to try if I get to that pointHave you done a zero point calibration on it? If its the same procedure on a GX as other Yotas its cake.
Edit: I guess those codes are not quite what out of spec would give, but more like the thing is unplugged..... Supposedly the hardly 'go bad'